Sporticus Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 Hello, I have an '02 V11 Lemans that is a fantastic bike when everything works correctly. That's not the case right now. Here's the history of my problem. Originally, I could start the bike up and go for a semi-lengthy ride. When I got to my destination, the bike would not restart (heat related?). I could not hear the fuel pump cycle on. This only happened after a ride long enough the get the engine fairly warm. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. I took the bike for a 30 mile ride. It stumbled twice at higer RPMs under load, but I made it home. When I got the home the bike restarted immediately, even though there was a delay with the fuel pump cycling on, which happened only after the relay made a whole bunch of clicking sounds that were not typical. I let it sit for approximately 1/2 hour and tried to restart. It would start and immediately die. I tried this several times with the same result. A few days later it fired right up and ran normally. I wish I had more patience for diagnostic work. Do I have an issue in the electrical system prior to 12 volts reaching the relay? Any suggestons are greatly apprciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 I'm going to kick off the replies by saying this is exactly what makes our forum tick. There will be some experienced and expert replies coming along to make certain your LeMans is delightful and roadworthy, again, @Sporticus ! First, what kind of relays are under the seat, especially in the very back (Position 5)? This could come down to changing to the best High Current relays presently available . . . https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 (edited) Yeah, the ol' electrical ghost in the machine. Mine's a '97, so the relays aren't in the same place, but I had the same troubles. New relays helped, but at the end of the day It took getting mad enough to truly service the entire relay/fuse panel properly. I disassembled it as far as possible- I don't mean that I removed every terminal from the block- but had a good look at everything and remade every connection I could find, to the battery and to the frame. What truly resolved the problem was giving every terminal a bath in CAIG DeOxit D5. I'll never be without it, amazing stuff. FWIW, I've been able to source the above referenced OMRON relays in any quantity from my local pick-n-pull junkyard; they're in pretty much every Jeep product. I pull the ones lightly used, whatever they may be- not engine fan, headlamps, fuel pump but rather fog lamps, horn, etc. Edited October 5 by Pressureangle add info 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporticus Posted October 5 Author Share Posted October 5 Thanks for all the responses. I have the aforementioned Omron relay in the rearmost position. The starter relay was giving me trouble a while back and I bought two Omron replacements. I had a spare when my fuel pump issues started so I put it in the fuel pump (rearmost) spot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 Prying up the fuse block will let you inspect these hidden spade connectors to Fuse #1 and #2. Make certain they are clean and tight. The Caig Deoxit® @Pressureangle referenced is highly desirable for every connection you open and reseat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporticus Posted October 5 Author Share Posted October 5 Just ordered a can of Deoxit. Thank you. I also swapped the fuel pump relay with the starter relay (and vice versa). The fuel pump primed and the relay only clicked once (as opposed to the staccato drum roll it had been doing). Maybe just a bad relay? I’ll try again when the bike is stone cold) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 1 minute ago, Sporticus said: Just ordered a can of Deoxit. Thank you. I also swapped the fuel pump relay with the starter relay (and vice versa). The fuel pump primed and the relay only clicked once (as opposed to the staccato drum roll it had been doing). Maybe just a bad relay? I’ll try again when the bike is stone cold) Progress! What type/ make of battery is in the bike? Check your battery voltage with a voltmeter and post the voltage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 explain this staccato drum roll ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporticus Posted October 6 Author Share Posted October 6 The relay clicks many times, but not with any regularity. Kind of a sporadic clicking that I’ve never heard before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 41 minutes ago, Sporticus said: The relay clicks many times, but not with any regularity. Kind of a sporadic clicking that I’ve never heard before. These are OMRON G8HE 5-pin relays? Let's check that battery voltage and the connections beneath Fuses #1 an d #2 before going further (toward the Ignition Switch) . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 3 hours ago, Sporticus said: The relay clicks many times, but not with any regularity. Kind of a sporadic clicking that I’ve never heard before. Rapid relay cycling is (afaik) a consequence of low voltage; the signal circuit activates, and when the delivery circuit connects the user drops the voltage below the hold-in requirement of the signal circuit. Rinse and repeat. The diagnostic I'd begin with is tracing the wiring diagram to find the point at which the signal and delivery circuits have a common voltage source. Docc and others have had trouble with the main 30A fuse and the underlying wiring (circuits that mine doesn't have). There are threads relevant to that, and in fact every thing every where. Patience will get you there, along with a little help from your friends. I'm doing hurricane prep in the rain, so I can't research. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 9 minutes ago, Pressureangle said: Rapid relay cycling is (afaik) a consequence of low voltage; .... That matches up with what I believe to know... With the erractic behaviour described, I would be inclined to have a good look at the whole wiring loom. There may be a dodgy (intermittent) connection somewhere, or it may be an accumulation of marginal connections. The bike is old, and electrics rarely get better with age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 There are available a "test relay" that will plug into the receptacle and it has a toggle switch . You can turn the relay on/off to test the circuit to see if the fuel pump comes on and stays on . with this you can decide if you have a good 12v at the relay and if you have a good 12v going to the fuel pump. I got mine from Snap-On . any good tool truck will have these. I will look out in the shop and take a pic of one and try to show it on here or I can send you a pic to your phone . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 Quote I found boxes these came in . One is a Lisle 56810 and the other is a IPA 9038A relay bypass switch kit . These are both good tools to have . IDK if you can buy the mini relay tester separately or not ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 10 Share Posted October 10 Have you done any more to your bike to diagnose this problem ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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