1997 1100 sport won't start

[red lion]

My 1997 1100 sport ran fine last time I road it. Now it won't start. All the lights work except the turn signals. I can hear the fuel pump prime, and it turns over when the start button is pressed, but the bike is not getting any spark. The fuses all look good. Is there a relay that controls the turn signals and power to the spark plugs?

[audiomick]

It would help to supply a bit of background. For instance, how long since you rode it, and how many Volts is the battery currently showing? Second to that, what happens to the voltage when you hit the starter button?

The point is, try and find out if the battery is still good or not. First stop on the discovery tour of "what is wrong with the electrics on my bike?".

Another one: does it start if you jump start it from a running vehicle? As I wrote, it is about trying to find out if the battery is still good or not. Everything else comes after that.

Edited November 18 by audiomick

[red lion]

I put a power pack jump starter to the battery and it was the same, no start.

[audiomick]

Ok, so we can assume that it is not just the battery. How long since you rode it last? Long enough to get corrosion on connectors? Where was it whilst it was standing around? Protected or exposed?

[docc]

+1 on battery first . . .

Then cleaning and treating (Caig DeOxit) the important connections: battery terminals, grounds, starter connections, ignition switch . . .

[red lion]

I pulled the relays and spayed them with caig deoxit. the battery is fine but i'm not gettingf spark at the plugs.

[pete roper]

So is the engine turning over? Or is it just dead?

if it’s not turning over it may well be a grubby or corroded earth connection. The Sports have the battery/ies in the tail. There is an earth strap that goes to the rear sub frame, then that is bolted to the ‘Pork Chop’ mounting bolt. The earth path is awful! From the front subframe it’s even worse! They are notorious for problems with idiot lights, ndicators and headlights, all because of the awful earthing paths.

[red lion]

The engine tuns over fine, just no spark at the plugs.

[pete roper]

Are the injectors firing? If not it’s likely the phase sensor. Chuck another one at it. They’re cheap.

[Lucky Phil]

Here's an old question before troubleshooting begins. "What was the very last thing done to the bike before the issue occurred"? How many times have we learned 4 pages in "oh year I washed it before the issue" or Had the tank off before the issue" or find out it has a Power commander fitted etc etc. 

BTW it's an 1100 Sporti

Phil

Edited November 18 by Lucky Phil

[gstallons]

Start off w/Phil's advice FIRST. 

no spark . You tested for spark at the spark plug ? Remove the spark plugs to make it easy to test . Plug the spark plugs into the coil wires and lay them onto the head so they will have  good ground and crank the engine to look for spark. You can purchase a spark plug tester also and skip all of this work.

IDK where the coils are mounted but you should have B+ (w/the key on) on one side of the coil terminals. The other side is signalled from the c/shaft sensor through the pcm. No B= on the coil means you will have to look at your wiring diagram to see where power comes from. 

[red lion]

The last thing that I did to the bike was to relpace the spark plugs. I do have a spark plug tester and there is no spark.

[Pressureangle]

I don't have access to my laptop with the documents for this bike, maybe someone can  point to them or post them. Let's set the scene

You changed spark plugs, and didn't start the motor afterwards? Why did you change the plugs?
Did you test the spark plugs for continuity? I've seen enough bad from the box that I test every plug now. I've had bad brand name plug caps new too, though not likely they both failed at the same time in situ.
Find the fuse and relay that power the ECU, check that you have power to the computer. IIRC the pump runs without being told to by the ECU. 
Did you disturb the gas tank at all? IIRC the coil power leads have connectors along the frame under the tank that are a little too easy to disconnect. 
Could be the cam sensor, but complete failure from good seems unlikely. Was it running poorly? Pull the cam sensor- if it's tight in the block, swollen, it's probably toast. When I first got mine, the CS ran for 20 minutes then sputtered home- every time it started after cooling, maybe a half-dozen times but quit sooner and sooner until eventually it would not start. The CS showed continuity and resistance cold, but a hot air gun and multimeter proved that as soon as it got over about 150ºF it open circuited.