2002 Lemans - New to Me and Trying to Get it Started

[docc]

While waiting for the High Current relays, investigate the battery:

See if you can find a date code on it (I can't see what brand it is).

With a good voltmeter, record the voltages after it's been off any charger six hours:

>Static voltage (key off)

>Key on/ headlight on

>Attempt to start voltage

edit: That battery is not oriented correctly relative to the OEM application. It makes me wonder about how the wiring and  terminal connections had to be modified.

[WDGUZZI]

Thank you!  Are there target voltages for each condition I should be looking for?

[docc]

2 minutes ago, WDGUZZI said:

Thank you!  Are there target voltages for each condition I should be looking for?

Yes, but post what you find and we'll go from there.

Post what brand/model and age your battery is.

How long since this LeMans has been known to start/run?

[WDGUZZI]

Ok but I'm using just a substitute battery for now as the one that came with the bike is dead.  The bike was supposed to have been running within the last 3 months.  The gas smells ok but I'll be flushing the tank and lines anyway 

[docc]

You had me a little worried about the Dripping Springs,  but pretty sure you have that covered and it's kind of an inside joke, anyway . . .

[WDGUZZI]

Lol, yah I checked and no drops so far.

[gstallons]

ALL the wires need to be connected  to the battery before you start . Get a good battery. AZ (I think) sells Odyssey along w/a military discount . The only battery to buy. You can hop it around to other bikes if needed. 

[gstallons]

BTW . "starter interruptus" has 300 variations , so ........

[activpop]

On 11/26/2024 at 1:29 PM, WDGUZZI said:

Wow I had no idea there were new ones available that cheaply.  I could swear I did a search on their site and came up empty, but when I entered the part number you gave it came right up.  Thank you!  My only concern is that it states fitment for 1999 through 2005, and I thought there was a difference between the fitment for 2001 and 2002.  I'll definitely check it out, though, especially as AF1 is just 5 miles from my office.

I checked with them today since I need one too. They are no longer available. So it is back to getting it recovered. Too bad, my daughter lives in Austin and could throw it in overhead when she comes home to visit. Good conversation starter.

[gstallons]

IDK what the OEM number of ring terminals are to a V11 + and - battery terminals are but look / dig around everywhere to find everyone of them . AFA the N light not working , lay the bike over GENTLY to remove the N light switch wire ant touch it to a good ground w/KOEO and see if it comes on . IF it does remove the switch and clean it thoroughly w/contact cleaner and work it a lot to get it working . You can buy a new one but this is easy to do .

 

[audiomick]

On 11/28/2024 at 3:50 PM, gstallons said:

IDK what the OEM number of ring terminals are to a V11 + and - battery terminals are ...

You mean how many wires need to be re-connected when the battery was out, don't you? I assume the original state is only one (fat) wire to each terminal, like most vehicles. The thing is, one never knows, on a bike one isn't familiar with, what may have been added to or altered in the wiring loom.

For instance, my Breva 750 has only one additional wire to +, the modification to get battery plus direct to the starter solenoid.

From memory, my V11 has 2 wires on minus and 3 on plus, but the wiring loom has obviously been modified, so that is nothing to go by. It looks like it was only the two fat ones originally.

My V35 Imola is the clear winner: 3 (or 4?) on minus, and 4 (or 5?) on plus. It also originally only had the two, I believe. However, it has acquired a mount for the navigation device, a different alternator and electronic ignition, all of which brought additional connectors to the battery with them. I really should build some sort of "connector busbar" so there are only the two wires on the battery.

PS: I've gotten into the habit of binding the connectors from each pole together when I disconnect them. Experience shows that is too easy to miss one out when reconnecting if I don't do that.

Edited November 30 by audiomick

[docc]

Having one of those nefarious modified electrical systems, It's challenging for me to recall the original set-up.

Yet, I believe @audiomick is correct on the one fat (main) per side, the primary ground to the sketchy back of the gearbox and the main positive to the starter.

The two additional, smaller ring terminals per side are for the entirely separate fuel/ignition and start/lights harnesses.

IIRC, the one additional small ring terminal on the negative side (making three plus the main) is the (also sketchy) ground from the regulator.

So easy to drop one off during a battery R/R . . .

[gstallons]

Ohhhh yeah . You don't want to waste a lot of time ... Someone had done this earlier this year and left a ring terminal off.

[WDGUZZI]

Great tips, and some applicable to my 98 EV that I'm trying to resuscitate as well.  Thank you!

[WDGUZZI]

With the awesome assistance of the folks in this site, I seem to have the bike sorted out.  A working substitute fuel pump and new relays did the trick 

Thank you!!