Timing cover and coil mounts

[Guest Brian Robson]

At 50,000 miles the timing cover started to leak, and I have just finished replacing the gasket. During the procedure, several small issues came up that might be of interest to those with less mileage.

Oil cooler and lines....both of the lines had abraded areas where they come into contact with the frame and there was corresponding paint removal on the frame and the alternator cover ( I repainted this silver at the time). The lines themselves had some superficial fraying which was trimmed and then recovered. I do ride in all weathers and the combination of water, salt, sand and other crap obviously contributed.

I think the lower cooler mount on the 1100 and the Centauro makes some sense and I may in the future look at getting some new lines and try a different routing

Coil mounts...there is a metal plate that attachs the coils to the front down tubes. There are three rubber spacers that attach with a threaded plate stuck to the rubber with adhesive. All three of these were loose, i.e. the adhesive had failed, and that allowed the coil plate to just hang there. I reattached them by drilling through the rubber and inserting a 5mm allen bolt and nut.

The possible reason why the oil leak occured was some debris at several points around the gasket and a gasket that appears to be 30% less in width than the new one.

I hope this helps someone

The bike remains a real pleasure to ride and also to work on.

[al_roethlisberger]

....yeah, I had the coil plate come loose(as have others) as well, although it was predicated by my torqueing it down and allowing the glued-on disc to twist the rubber... and that stress led to premature failure <_>

 

I used some "flexible" super-glue to fix it, and so far they've stayed together.

 

This has happened to lots of other folks too, and I think it's just one of those things that happens every so often, and should be checked as part of the yearly check-up.

 

I would be careful about mounting the plate rigidly after failing though, as the coils really should be isolated(as much as possible) from vibration

 

I'll have to check my oil cooler lines, although I too have given them a sidelong glance in regard to clearances/routing <_>

 

al

[Guest Brian Robson]

Sorry I wasn't clear Al, but I took the rubber mounts and drilled a hole right through them, screwed in a longer allen bolt, then attached them with a nut. Now there is nothing to come loose, just a bolt through a piece of rubber with a nut on the end.

As you can see, I won't be editing a workshop manual soon

[al_roethlisberger]

Sorry I wasn't clear Al, but I took the rubber mounts and drilled a hole right through them, screwed in a longer allen bolt, then attached them with a nut. Now there is nothing to come loose, just a bolt through a piece of rubber with a nut on the end.

As you can see, I won't be editing a workshop manual soon

 

 

Naw, I gotcha the first time ... I almost did the same a while back when mine came loose, but Mike advised against it because it would diminish the "shock absorbing qualities" by bolting them down.

 

Although I suppose if one bolted through the rubber, and "loosely" tightened them such that the rubber mounts could still "wiggle" around the bolts, the end-result would still be fine

 

Here is the previous thread:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=1868&hl=coil

 

al

[Guest Brian Robson]

Thats exactly what I did and the "wiggle factor" felt the same.

[docc]

So when the mounts go bad can you actually put a finger on the coils and wobble them around with the tank and everything in place?

[Guest Brian Robson]

Docc, you are right. When the mounts go there is gross movement of the plate e.g. we are talking inches of movement

[al_roethlisberger]

 

So when the mounts go bad can you actually put a finger on the coils and wobble them around with the tank and everything in place?

 

 

...yep, at that point, the whole coil assembly(both coil packs and the triangular mounting plate they are bolted to) will be hanging by the wiring harness, and held mostly in place by the rubber oil breather tube that runs between the coils.

 

I don't think the whole assembly can go anywhere at that point, as it's attached by the harness, plug wires, and jammed in a tight space(...ever try to take it out? I have <_ but it can be good for the wiring or coils to hanging and banging around under frame like that src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_unsure.png" alt=":unsure:">

 

So one should probably check this every so often along with whatever gross inspection routine you employ.

 

al

[docc]

Thanks to Brian for the heads-up on checking the oil lines!

 

Adding a couple 'zip ties' works to buffer the contact points.