Molly Posted December 7 Posted December 7 Reassembling the rear end. Factory manual says 120nm on the torque values page and 28÷30nm in the wheel parts section. Whatever that means... Thing is, the wheel is solid - won't rotate - long before 120nm suggesting to me that there's a spacer missing as I must be applying lateral force to the bearings. Any advice appreciated. 2001 Greenie.
Molly Posted December 7 Author Posted December 7 Erm.... Should this chap be playing a part? It was hiding in plain sight... 3
gstallons Posted December 7 Posted December 7 Errrr. It is like an airplane , there are no spare parts. 1
MotoKnee Posted December 7 Posted December 7 2 hours ago, Molly said: Erm.... Should this chap be playing a part? It was hiding in plain sight... Only had my wheel off once, but seem to recall this spacer? 1 1
Molly Posted December 7 Author Posted December 7 2 hours ago, gstallons said: Errrr. It is like an airplane , there are no spare parts. LOL. I'll put this one up there with the time I demolished a 'stuck' Harley fuel cap that turned out to be left hand thread... Thanks guys. Bit premature in my posting there.
docc Posted December 8 Posted December 8 46 minutes ago, Molly said: LOL. I'll put this one up there with the time I demolished a 'stuck' Harley fuel cap that turned out to be left hand thread... Thanks guys. Bit premature in my posting there. Ha, not at all. We love to share and be reminded where all the little hidden bits go! 1 1
gstallons Posted December 8 Posted December 8 9 hours ago, Molly said: LOL. I'll put this one up there with the time I demolished a 'stuck' Harley fuel cap that turned out to be left hand thread... Thanks guys. Bit premature in my posting there. I did the same on some rear view mirrors on motorcycles LAST year ! 1
Molly Posted December 8 Author Posted December 8 So, it's all back together. The drive shaft now 'telescopes' like it should (it was solid!), the needle bearings in the right side of the bevel box actually move (they too were utterly corroded to a single mass), and everything else has had a good clean and grease. The old drive shaft bolts were munted and I think that's because the shaft wasn't moving. Could be my imagination but gear changes seemed smoother. More snick-snick rather than clunk-clunk. Thanks for your help along the way with this. Much appreciated, gents. 3
gstallons Posted December 8 Posted December 8 I hate to be ex post facto but I hope you ran a tap through those holes before putting it back together ? 2
docc Posted December 9 Posted December 9 1 hour ago, gstallons said: I hate to be ex post facto but I hope you ran a tap through those holes before putting it back together ? Those driveshaft yokes are nefarious for getting the bolts lined back up and torqued right. "I had a bad experience." At the very least, add witness marks (paint lines along the bolt head across the yoke) and monitor after each ride for a bolt backing out. 2
Molly Posted December 9 Author Posted December 9 7 hours ago, gstallons said: I hate to be ex post facto but I hope you ran a tap through those holes before putting it back together ? I cleaned the heck out of them. Skinny wite brush in my drill and copious amounts of brake cleaner. Marked with a paint pen too. Cheers. 2
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