Voltage regulator broken? Confirmed.

[Tinus89]

Locally, we also have this company supplying electronics for motorbikes. I have their ignition system on my V65 Florida, and when I ran into a problem with no spark, they helped me out via phone on a friday afternoon at 1740hrs until after 1800hrs without any complaining (with the friday afternoon drinks in the background). 

 

They have this: https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4318_1086&products_id=616&language=en&zenid=99a86542fb47940f10005a7f36e22d6b

Albeit significantly higher priced compared to Docc's link.

[Lucky Phil]

On 1/12/2025 at 8:57 PM, Tinus89 said:

Locally, we also have this company supplying electronics for motorbikes. I have their ignition system on my V65 Florida, and when I ran into a problem with no spark, they helped me out via phone on a friday afternoon at 1740hrs until after 1800hrs without any complaining (with the friday afternoon drinks in the background). 

 

They have this: https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4318_1086&products_id=616&language=en&zenid=99a86542fb47940f10005a7f36e22d6b

Albeit significantly higher priced compared to Docc's link.

Problem with the direct to the battery style is the reg is always live and has a parasitic draw on the battery while parked. Combined with the ecu parasitic draw you def need to use a battery tender if parked for any length of time.

Phil

[Tinus89]

16 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Problem with the direct to the battery style is the reg is always live and has a parasitic draw on the battery while parked. Combined with the ecu parasitic draw you def need to use a battery tender if parked for any length of time.

Phil

 

Phil, how exactly would this happen? Because looking at this wiring schematic, all connections are direct and not switched:

 

[gstallons]

Looking at that diagram , you will see a ground wire cooling off the v reg and attaching to - and I would assume it would attach to the frame . This and the - going to the battery.  Someone posted an opinion (I can't remember if it was Kiwi-Roy or not) about grounding a particular way because if the ground to the battery to frame got loose the other ground wiring would be responsible for all the current load . The results would be BAD . On all ground wire applications I use shakeproof washers and a clean connection w/the goo of your choice to prevent oxidation.

 IDK how the regulator is constructed inside so I am not sure if the regulator is "on" or just "available" at all times ? 

[gstallons]

I remember now , you want the regulator - to go to a good ground (engine block or a solid frame) ground . The battery cable ground can go to the engine block .  this is in case you lose a good ground connection and the circuit will use the regulator ground wire to complete the circuit w/terrible results. That 14ga  (I think) wire will not handle the load of the starter and melt 

[Tinus89]

14 hours ago, gstallons said:

I remember now , you want the regulator - to go to a good ground (engine block or a solid frame) ground . The battery cable ground can go to the engine block .  this is in case you lose a good ground connection and the circuit will use the regulator ground wire to complete the circuit w/terrible results. That 14ga  (I think) wire will not handle the load of the starter and melt 

That is absolutely the case! I have this properly arranged & also measured from a random spot on the case to the battery negative terminal at 0.0 Ohm.

 

But I was hoping Lucky Phil could shed some light onto how this parasitic draw would run.

[gstallons]

He will have to explain that theory .

You need the battery ground ON the engine frame to be as effective as possible and get the best results. You want a perfect circuit in electrical to work correctly .  Not like the wiring diagram shows. You can run a redundant - cable from the regulator ground to the battery cable ground for a perfect circuit. Just route it so it won't look hillbilly .

20+ years ago I worked on this Sullair air compressor that the company had spent $4500 on to get it to start correctly. SLOOOOW cranking . I used a test light and went from the + post of the battery to the starter where cable was attached to . Tried cranking and no light. Did the same to the - terminal of the battery to a good ground spot . Starter mounting bolt . Tried it again and the test light came on Bright. The - battery cable had been factory installed with the - cable attached outside of the battery box on the frame . Installed a new - cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt with shakeproof washers on both sides of the battery cable lug and it was fixed !

Edited January 15 by gstallons

[docc]

On 1/10/2025 at 4:10 PM, docc said:

I stumbled across this R/R at Getor Moto in Germany . . .

Perhaps, Getor Moto is a resource we should know about?

edit/ Jan 17 2025: I am sorry to report I am having a bad time resolving an issue with this seller over a shipping foul-up. I have to put them (Getor Moto) in the "not recommended" category. Too bad.

Too bad.

[Tinus89]

On 1/12/2025 at 10:57 AM, Tinus89 said:

Locally, we also have this company supplying electronics for motorbikes. I have their ignition system on my V65 Florida, and when I ran into a problem with no spark, they helped me out via phone on a friday afternoon at 1740hrs until after 1800hrs without any complaining (with the friday afternoon drinks in the background). 

 

They have this: https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4318_1086&products_id=616&language=en&zenid=99a86542fb47940f10005a7f36e22d6b

Albeit significantly higher priced compared to Docc's link.

Discussed the specifics of their R/R with them, also when wired directly to the battery. Their R/R only switches the +12v connection on when it see an AC voltage, thereby preventing mA draw with the bike off. I also asked them if they could lengten the + and - wires (originally 57cm) to 120cm with the connectors separate. "Absolutely no problem, just let us known in the comments when you order".

So I ordered and received a sent confirmation only about 3 hours later.

I received the regulator, with 120cm of wire on it, nicely sleeved all the way. Drilled new holes in the mounting bracket (and gave it a lick of paint) & tested the bike: shockingly stable charge voltages. Problem solved.