2000 Redframe on deck

[gstallons]

15.85mm= 5/8" . I am speaking as far as I can go on the subject w/o tearing something down .  You will have to do this . 

IDK if there are casting #s on this anywhere or not ? This front braking system is expanding 8 pistons so I can see the need for a large bore to push more fluid . 

[docc]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

15.85mm= 5/8" . I am speaking as far as I can go on the subject w/o tearing something down .  You will have to do this . 

IDK if there are casting #s on this anywhere or not ? This front braking system is expanding 8 pistons so I can see the need for a large bore to push more fluid . 

My original 2000 front brake master cylinder is stamped OC 02•16

I believe this designates a 16mm bore. FWIW, in 2020 I could not find a rebuild kit for my front brake and bought a used replacement. OPP Racing would be where I would check first, now.

[PhillipLarsen]

My mistake, looking back through my orders from my 20-year overhaul of the 2004 Ballabio, Powerhouse UK is where I got the caliper kits for front and rear calipers.

Gotham Cycles (Ducati/Brembo parts) is where I got the master cylinder kits for clutch (12mm), front brake (16mm same as used on Ducati) and rear brake.

(some are the same parts as used on early Ducati 916 I think or at least use the same internal parts).

You will see all the Brembo parts (with Ducati references parts on line).

If rebuilding the rear brake master be sure to order the 90-degree fitting with O-ring (comes separate) as you will want to remove it from the master cylinder to make sure no bit or residue in there. That is where mine had plugged up, leaving back brake rubbing without me knowing, destroying pads, plastic pad cover, etc.

On the clutch and front brake master cylinder I add a bleed banjo fitting where the brake line attaches to master cylinder. Makes it easier to ensure no trapped air. Gotham sells these as well.

The parts are not too expensive, especially the rear master.

I had also bought an original Moto Guzzi supplied Brembo complete front master cylinder with all the attachment, including lever, adjuster, etc., prior to finding the rebuild kits were available through Gotham. . On the shelf for a spare now.

Hope this helps.

[PhillipLarsen]

Note my spare in the picture is my clutch master on the shelf!

[Pressureangle]

@pete roper

What's your opinion on main and rod bearings, with ~67k miles showing? Oil pan had a light coat of the brownies, but been sitting a decade- oil filter shows '09 install date so maybe quite longer, nobody is certain. The owner took pretty good care of it, oil changes balance TBs etc. Used Mobil 1 throughout, he said. 

My inclination is to install a Valtec tensioner, button it up and run it unless a leakdown shows that it needs heads.

[pete roper]

Sorry, I haven’t been following this topic. I’ll have a scan through.

[gstallons]

3 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

@pete roper

What's your opinion on main and rod bearings, with ~67k miles showing? Oil pan had a light coat of the brownies, but been sitting a decade- oil filter shows '09 install date so maybe quite longer, nobody is certain. The owner took pretty good care of it, oil changes balance TBs etc. Used Mobil 1 throughout, he said. 

My inclination is to install a Valtec tensioner, button it up and run it unless a leakdown shows that it needs heads.

if there is NO metallic particles in the pan , you should be good to go . Leave the rods/rod bolts alone unless you install NEW bolts. I understand these capscrews are sensitive. When you go back together fill the filter w/oil just to CYA ! You are going to go back w/the Roper Plate addition ?

 I will have to check out the Valtec tensioner . Can you post a link to the timing chain tensioner ?

Edited March 19 by gstallons

[Pressureangle]

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=347

[pete roper]

On the bottom end there is always the risk of oil pick-up exposure on the ‘Broad Sump’ engines but it really simply depends on whether you’re willing to risk there being damage. If you grab the rods from underneath and try and move them on the journal, as long as they don’t noticeably move or make squelchy noises they are probably OK. If you want to make sure simply drop the rod caps off, push the pistons and rods up the bore enough to see the top shell and make sure. Now ‘Best Practice’ is to never re-use rod bolts unless they are ones designed to be torqued to stretch. The reality though is that many, many Guzzi owners regularly and repeatedly re-use rod bolts with no issues so if it were my engine? That’s what I would do. It’s not a race engine. It doesn’t need to be treated like one. 

If the shells show signs of wear? Flick a new set into it. You can give the crankpin a ‘Poor man’s linnish’ with some wet and dry as well if you think it needs it. If it is scored or pitted though it’ll need regrinding and the rods closing and grinding.

Edited March 21 by pete roper

[Pressureangle]

There's no sign of anything amiss so far as my fingers can tell. 
I'll turn the engine through a few times and do a leakdown test, wiggle the valve stems; if there's any question at all I'll have the heads done. I'll get a look at the cam from the bottom too, though the P.O. says he used exclusively Mobil 1 so I don't expect any problem. I'd hate to have to do all the work to fit the Web 86b in this one and then tune it too... 
It'd be ok if somebody had a forgotten set of Carrillo rods under the workbench they wanted coffee and donut money for too lol

[docc]

I'd say, "Ride it like you stole it " since those verbs look to be extant in the case of this Sport . . .

   

[Pressureangle]

14 hours ago, docc said:

I'd say, "Ride it like you stole it " since those verbs look to be extant in the case of this Sport . . .

   

I think I can still fit into my leathers...

[gstallons]

And they probably feel like pantyhose !

[Pressureangle]

3 hours ago, gstallons said:

And they probably feel like pantyhose !

I am not going to participate in a thread about leather and pantyhose

[gstallons]

Mmmm. I understand .