Winter Project - My New to Me Sad Neglected LeMans

[Steve Swan]

On 2/3/2025 at 10:57 AM, audiomick said:

A surprising number of the rubber bits are available. Stein-dinse has a number of them produced, I believe. If the part number on their site has a "z" on the end (xxxx-z), it indicates a part from a 3rd party supplier (the z is for "Zubehör", German for "accessory").

A word to the wise: rubber parts these days are often not as durable as the were back in the good old days. One plausible explanation I have seen for this is the some of the "good" plasticisers are no longer legal due do environmental protection and what have you.

Whatever, the good advice seems to be to, given a choice, pay for the more expensive option, or live with having to swap out the part again in 5 or 6 years.

@audiomick Thanks for sharing the resource, no love on the 30 53 05 25 boot, lower master cyl rubber. 10.4 on paying for quality.

[Steve Swan]

On 2/3/2025 at 11:09 AM, Scud said:

The exhaust gaskets compress so much that they appear like a machined ridge. I once thought there were no gaskets on a bike of mine, then was able to remove them.

As for rubber bits, like the boot for the rear master cylinder, you might have to find out what other bikes used the same master in order to find a part. There are many documented examples in a thread called "Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts" and if you find something not previously documented, please share for the community.

@Scud Thanks for the tips, yes there were exh.pipe gaskets!  i shall see what the Encyclopedia has and if i find parts not listed in it, certainly i shall post them. 

[Steve Swan]

On 2/1/2025 at 9:56 AM, audiomick said:

My '02 Le Mans hasn't had as hard a time as yours, but it obviously has had a bit of a hard life. When I went into the back end about a year ago, I pulled everything off, wheel out, swing-arm off, torque rod off, shaft off and disassembled on the bench, to have a good look at it all. Turned out to be a good idea. I'd suggest you do the same. You might find some "interesting" things, like I did.

While your in there, I'd strongly suggest obtaining and mounting the clutch bleeder extension that was standard on later models like the Griso.

Part #12 here

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&m=210&t=5005&c=Z

This:

https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/search-1-05606630-.html

 

Get the bolt and seals as well, you need them. Part #8 and #9.

It is not exactly cheap, but makes bleeding the clutch a very simple task instead of a complete pain in the arse. Given that you are in there anyway, and no doubt will be changing the clutch fluid anyway, it seems the ideal time to bolt the thing in there while you're at it.

@scud thanks for the tips.

[Steve Swan]

@gstallons @Scud @docc @audiomick i have the swing arm removed.  I'll inspect hte lower shock mount and report back. Will start cleaning away the greasy, salty grime.  The swing arm double row bearings are almost dry, no water damage, don't turn easy but are smooth.  My bearing puller slide hammer isn't heavy enough to pull the bearings. Wonder if heat gun might help...  Removed the outer cage, will thoroughly wash them out, see how they turn and if free and if smooth, thinking i will repack with new grease.  I'll stay with the factory shock, i'm tired of dumping money into more bikes than i care to remember over the past six decades, so a full thorough inspection and service is all this poor old crusty hag gets from me.  I've saved her from an untimely death, so she'll love me well for what i do give her. Thanks for the comprehensive lists of things to inspect and service, and the tip on the clutch bleeder.  I'll post before and after pics of the cleaning.  My spirits dampened having to dive deep into this bike,  i never thought it, but i've gone to the dark side and become a car guy for the first time in my 73 years.  Last September, bought a '94 Corvette in exquisitely clean condition which has thoroughly excited my passions...

 

[gstallons]

Gotcha !

[gstallons]

I have never removed the swingarm bearings but I know they are extremely "in there".  A+ on the clean & repack IF they are not rusty. Lots of brake-kleen and compressed air to clean them up. When/if you go this route , pack them full of wheel bearing grease and put the dust shield back on. 

 If you know someone w/a threaded puller to pull the bearings out this might be a good idea . I know a real good heat gun is needed to get them out / in if you go this route. If you accomplish this , pack the new roller bearings w/grease . New bearings have just enuf grease in them to not rust. 

[Steve Swan]

10 hours ago, gstallons said:

I have never removed the swingarm bearings but I know they are extremely "in there".  A+ on the clean & repack IF they are not rusty. Lots of brake-kleen and compressed air to clean them up. When/if you go this route , pack them full of wheel bearing grease and put the dust shield back on. 

 If you know someone w/a threaded puller to pull the bearings out this might be a good idea . I know a real good heat gun is needed to get them out / in if you go this route. If you accomplish this , pack the new roller bearings w/grease . New bearings have just enuf grease in them to not rust. 

@gstallons by wheel bearing grease, to you mean that thick heavy dark brownish grease?  I've been using Belray Waterproof in the white/blue plastic tub, but have started using Lucas Red "N" Tacky a few yeasrs ago...

[gstallons]

In this case , whatever you want . If you were cleaning and regreasing a roller bearing in a wheel . As CLEAN as possible and a hi-temp wheel bearing grease , w/just enough grease . You don't want too much or it will overheat . 

[Steve Swan]

Ok, more pics.  I think i've dismantled, loosened or freed up about as much as i think needs 2b done to deep clean, inspect and service what's needed.  Looking out my shop window past the pile 'o LeMans parts, it's snowing, 8ºF here in Laporte, Colorado, but i'm warm in my cozy little shop.  Bring it on!

[docc]

Plus enough hammers and a Kennedy machinist chest to make us brothers!

[Steve Swan]

Ok, a few shots of the carcass.  i've removed as much as i think is necessary to begin the deep cleaning which i'll start this weekend. Docc's to do list when the rear end's off is printed and on the work bench. Thank goodness i guess that i've got February through April to get things back together.  I'm looking forward to the new Road 6's and the Mistral satin round muffs were shipped today from MGC.  Not sure how i'm going to freshen up the cosmetic damage from being the neglect of put away salty wet, something to think about and i welcome your suggestions. At least when i'm done, i'm not going to have a show bike that i have to keep in spit and polish condition.

Edited February 12 by Steve Swan

[Steve Swan]

Noticed these 2 things...  Does the splined area look soupy to you? I didn't sniff for Hypoid smell.  If this signals a leak, where's it coming from?  And a degraded breather hose.

[docc]

Good find on the breather hose: yes, replace!

The hub area does not look like a gear oil leak to me. I would clean up the hub area, grease the teeth (Klüber Staburags?) and monitor the area to the next tire change.

[Steve Swan]

18 minutes ago, docc said:

Plus enough hammers and a Kennedy machinist chest to make us brothers!

Can't get enough hammers and screwdrivers!

[Steve Swan]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

Good find on the breather hose: yes, replace!

The hub area does not look like a gear oil leak to me. I would clean up the hub area, grease the teeth (Klüber Staburags?) and monitor the area to the next tire change.

@docc what is Klüber Staburags?  I was thinking if i could get away with cutting off the degraded piece of hose and reconnecting...  Where can i source a new one?

Edited February 12 by Steve Swan