Looking for instructiions on removing the

[F344]

I am wondering, what do I cap and what do I keep? My workshop manual shows the old system with the 2 canisters up near the spine. My bike has 1 canister rear of the cross over.

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

Ahhhh! You want to get rid of the emissions shit??

I would have to look at my bike to guide you but all I can say is ditch whatever looks unnessesary and cap off the rest. How's that for the simple version?

[al_roethlisberger]

....it's super simple. Just remove everything associated with the cannister, by following the lines.

 

In the end, you'll end up with two brass vacuum taps/nipples on the throttle bodies that you'll need to block by:

 

1) Cap with a bolt(by unscrewing and SAVING the nipple for future TB balancing duties) which is what most people do

 

or

 

2) "cap" the nipples by running a new short vacuum line between both brass nipples on the TBs

 

 

You'll also end up with a vent line coming from under the tank that used to go to the vapor recovery cannister. You simply need to route this down under the bike somewhere... anywhere you like.

 

 

That's it. It should take you all of about 30 minutes, if you take your time

 

al

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

OK

Al explains it ten times better than me but he ends up with the same result.

I will save his explanation for others but he is spot on!!!

I just pulled the useless stuff off and hoped for the best!

[docc]

My 2000 shed 5 pounds and 20 feet (!!) of hose. The cannisters were in the tool tray under the seat.

 

I'm still a fan of blocking the intake with a short hex drive bolt and a soft washer. Muuch tidier and will never create a vacuum leak, crack or blow off.

[Guest northend]

the two lines under the tank

The one on the left (sitting on the bike) is the overflow for the top part of the tank.

The one on the right(with the tip-over valve inline) is the tank vent.

Both lines should be left open and routed towards the ground but best routing would NOT be directly in front of the rear tire.

One more thing is to make sure your tip-over valve is secured perfectly up and down(vertical) otherwise you will run into a "tank suck" problem.

As for the nipples on the throttle bodies,just use good vacume caps with good clamps and they'll be fine.

 

The rest of the crap is garbage....Throw it on the shelf and forget about it

[Ray]

One of my carbon canisters is now the coolant overflow tank on someone's streetfighter. I left the nipples in and used a plastic end cap of the right size, secured with a tiny zip tie.

[al_roethlisberger]

One more thing is to make sure your tip-over valve is secured perfectly up and down(vertical) otherwise you will run into a "tank suck" problem.

As for the nipples on the throttle bodies,just use good vacume caps with good clamps and they'll be fine.

 

The rest of the crap is garbage....Throw it on the shelf and forget about it

 

 

Sorry to pick nits and honestly not to be argumentative .... but ... unless you've found some very heat resistant caps, using rubber caps is generally bad advice

 

I went the "vacuum cap with clamps" route several times(trying a few different types), and found that without exception, over just a few months the caps would harden, expand, and crack, causing a vacuum leak, and rough idle. Further, they would often eventually expand and crack so badly that they would occasionally just fall off(even with a spring clamp) while the engine was running, and then the idle/running would really go to hell <_>

 

 

Anyway, I would caution against just placing vacuum caps on the brass nipples, and instead use quality vacuum hose(why it doesn't crack like the caps is beyond me ) to bridge both throttle bodies, or as most recommend(including yours truly ), remove and *save* the brass nipples, and use two hex head bolts with an appropriately sized crush washer to seal the tap. These should be readily available at an auto supply or hardware shop.

 

 

And although I used to be a proponent of lashing the tipover valve vertically to something stationary like the frame to avoid "tank suck"... I eventually just gave up and took the thing off after the paint on my tank cracked. I advise just tossing it wholesale

 

...and yeah, the rest is junk

 

al

[Ray]

Not being defensive, but mine haven't cracked in 2 years...

[al_roethlisberger]

Not being defensive, but mine haven't cracked in 2 years...

 

 

No problem, interesting though.

 

As always YMMV

 

al

[Guest northend]

I replaced my tip-over valve with a Toyota PCV valve, I believe it was a Standard #269 and have not had any trouble with tank suck since.

You can get it at your local auto parts store.

 

As for the vacume caps, I never had any problem with them either, but the mechanic at the dealer replaced them with a vacume hose between the two fittings when I took it in for its annual.

 

He said he thought it helped the balance between the throttle bodies and cylinders. Sounds like a stretch to me but I guess every little bit helps

 

PS: Hey Al, They must use cheaper rubber out there in California eh???

[Skeeve]

... the dealer replaced them with a vacume hose between the two fittings when I took it in for its annual.

 

He said he thought it helped the balance between the throttle bodies and cylinders. Sounds like a stretch to me but I guess every little bit helps

 

PS: Hey Al, They must use cheaper rubber out there in California eh???

28642[/snapback]

 

It's not the rubber that's cheaper (quality), it's the gas!

 

AFAIK, the hose between the vacuum pips does enhance the low speed idle stability; that's basically what the Yamaha "YICS" system did on their mid-80s inline-4s.

[DeBenGuzzi]

what does this system do exactly? and do I gain anything from removing it? I'm not good with this stuff really and I have to be rather sure b4 I go rerouting caping off or changing things out.

[twhitaker]

what does this system do exactly? and do I gain anything from removing it? I'm not good with this stuff really and I have to be rather sure b4 I go rerouting caping off or changing things out.

48223[/snapback]

 

This stuff keeps the gas vapors from contaminating our atmosphere. Just think about how much of an effect it would have on our greenhouse gasses if all Guzzi owners removed these systems. The vapors that would normally go to atmosphere are drawn into the manifolds and burned. Effect....Really, none at all.

[al_roethlisberger]

what does this system do exactly? and do I gain anything from removing it? I'm not good with this stuff really and I have to be rather sure b4 I go rerouting caping off or changing things out.

48223[/snapback]

 

It's called a "vapor recovery system"...and as such is pretty self explanatory

 

It allows the intake to "suck" out the fuel vapor that would otherwise be vented out of the tank cap. That vapor is then collected in the charcoal cannister, where it can be drawn off and combusted, and/or condenses.

 

That's the simple explanation