Anyone who owns a Quota 1100 ES or knows someone that does? I need some information concerning the gear selector mechanism.

[p6x]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

These 0-rings are nothing more than dust shields to keep out "bad stuff" and the wave washer or spring keeps the side (in & out) motion to a minimum .

You are correct. I took the shift lever off the holding sleeve, and by looking into it, I can confirm those o'rings have no other purpose than preventing dirt from entering. The external diameter of the shift lever axe is 16mm exactly.

I only found one o'ring, so mangled that I can't get any cross section measurement. So I ordered the ones from AF1racing which I will measure when they get to me.

I took some photos just for the record. Both bushing are inserted. As you can see the clamping part of the gear lever does not return to unstressed position. That 7mm play is there to stay.

[p6x]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

Morse = ? are you referring to the splines ?

Sorry for the franglais. I am trying to point at the claw of the gear lever, that you tight up to clamp down on the shift lever spline. In French the two sides of a vice grip are called the morses.... ignore please, I thought I was speaking english.

[gstallons]

I would get prices and availability on these two parts. If these are a crazy #s , I would grind a gap in the clamping area and tighten it down to verify it will hold and go back together .  You can (after you get finished) drill and pin it w/a roll pin to keep it from slipping . 

[gstallons]

Moto Guzzi prices on the two shift parts are around $100 . Take your stuff to a machinist and get their opinion . You may want to go together w/new stuff

[p6x]

@gstallons

My current plan, once I get the o'rings, is to install ring shims to make up for lateral play. 7mm of free play seems to be way too much. I wish I could find a Quota owner to compare.

I will shim before the spline, so the wave washer is slightly compressed. This should help. I will also put a shim in front of the wave washer, to keep the o'ring inside.

 

 

[gstallons]

Yes ' replace them as a safeguard . 

[p6x]

I received the o'rings this morning:

The size is ID=15mm x CS=1.5mm. Therefore, any O'ring GU90706141 is it;

I paid 18 dollars for two o'rings....

Edited March 6 by p6x

[p6x]

On 3/3/2025 at 6:25 PM, gstallons said:

Yes ' replace them as a safeguard . 

I am not reinstalling the wave washer, as it did not serve any purpose. I have shimmed the shift lever properly, and it no longer has any lateral play.

[gstallons]

Good , you got all the parts ?  Do fill this bushing cavity w/grease when you go back together.  

The wave washer is there to take up slack . 

[p6x]

On 3/6/2025 at 12:41 PM, gstallons said:

Good , you got all the parts ?  Do fill this bushing cavity w/grease when you go back together.  

The wave washer is there to take up slack . 

In this new assembly, there will be no slack. The previous one, the wave washer served no purpose given the 7mm lateral play. Its sole purpose was to mangle the o'ring, not maintained inside the pivot hold.

I will take some pics once installed.

[gstallons]

Good . Were you doing something else to this bike too ?

[p6x]

Here's the assy following the shimming:

[docc]

27 minutes ago, p6x said:

Here's the assy following the shimming:

I feel like that bolt on the pinch should be slightly longer and the lock nut should be renewed.

I would also be inclined to insert the bolt downward with the nut on the bottom.

[gstallons]

Looks good . Take off n throw rocks !

[audiomick]

2 hours ago, docc said:

I feel like that bolt on the pinch should be slightly longer and the lock nut should be renewed.

I would also be inclined to insert the bolt downward with the nut on the bottom.

Yes, I also reckon the bolt is too short. Maybe 4 or 5 mm more would be good. I read somewhere, written be someone who should know, that there should be a minimum of 1.5 to 2 turns of thread proud of the nut, at least when it is a lock nut. And the lock nut does look a bit shabby.

But why the nut on the bottom? I see no reason for that. On the contrary, I expect it is a lot easier to tighten up with the nut on top.

Edited 18 hours ago by audiomick