Advanced troubleshooting (ECU failure?)

[gstallons]

I suspect the ecu. W/the ecu harness disconnected , use the test light attached to B+ and test pin  24 and 23 to ground making sure the test light comes on . 

 Then attach the test light to ground and check pin 26 for power w/ the key on .  You want to test all powers and grounds before replacing the ecu .

 I use a Lisle 60630 relay test jumper to use on micro-relays. It speeds up this procedure ! Get one ,they are terrific

Edited Sunday at 01:30 PM by gstallons

[gstallons]

Lisle Tools 60630: White Relay Test Jumper - JEGS

This relay test jumper should be in EVERYONE's tool bag / tool box !

[Mechanism]

19 hours ago, gstallons said:

I suspect the ecu. W/the ecu harness disconnected , use the test light attached to B+ and test pin  24 and 23 to ground making sure the test light comes on . 

 Then attach the test light to ground and check pin 26 for power w/ the key on .  You want to test all powers and grounds before replacing the ecu .

 I use a Lisle 60630 relay test jumper to use on micro-relays. It speeds up this procedure ! Get one ,they are terrific

I ran out of time. Hope to test the rest of the ECU plug shortly. Might as well start looking for a fresh ECU. They are few and expensive out here. And then there is the issue that nearly no setting was original on the current ECU. Expecting a long road to the V11 getting it's roar back.

Edited Monday at 09:03 AM by Mechanism

[gstallons]

I forgot to ask , how long has this been a no-start ?

.I hope you have the wiring diagram for the bike. there are a few differences through the years. I have replaced ECMs on automobiles through the years and the ones I was sure were bad turned out to be good and the ones I was unsure of were the bad ones . 

 Take your time testing everything to be sure of powers / grounds and all the inputs . Make sure nothing caused this failure.  Since the fuel pump "on" is the first thing to be activated , I am going to say the ecu is at fault. 

Edited Monday at 10:17 AM by gstallons

[Mechanism]

26 minutes ago, gstallons said:

I forgot to ask , how long has this been a no-start ?

.I hope you have the wiring diagram for the bike. there are a few differences through the years. I have replaced ECMs on automobiles through the years and the ones I was sure were bad turned out to be good and the ones I was unsure of were the bad ones . 

 Take your time testing everything to be sure of powers / grounds and all the inputs . Make sure nothing caused this failure.  Since the fuel pump "on" is the first thing to be activated , I am going to say the ecu is at fault. 

It was running great at the first startup after winter. One week later I'm getting ready for my first actual ride of the year, no fuel and spark. Bike has not moved an inch in between. 

I may have to start a seperate topic alltogether. As far as I know, all IAW 15M ECU's are interchangeable, as long as you put the V11 software / mapping on it (which I can't, because I hate programming stuff). But if that's true I can get a Ducati 15M ECU for small change, in stead of the exact right V11 one for a sh*tload of money.. And then find someone that can flash a V11 map on it. 

[gstallons]

Maybe there is a diagram on this Forum Kiwi_Roy had posted: V11 Sport ECU Test Point Layout dated May 12 2010. It has all wiring to the ECU and it's purpose . If you can't locate it , I have it in my paper library ,  I can take a pic and text it to you . 

[gstallons]

Ahhh. type in drop box in the search area (upper right portion) and it will show a compilation of drawings that Weegie compiled. Print all these off and use / keep them for when you need them .

[Mechanism]

I have been a naughty boy and took the ECU apart. I'll start with a much needed cleaning and then hope we have some PCB experts here that know what components have been fried due to oxidation between the traces.  

Once again: I greatly appreciate all the help! 

[Mechanism]

Sooo guess what.. I put the ECU in the oven for an hour at 100 degrees C. Took it apart, cleaned the entire (heavily oxidated) print with Isopropyl alcohol and dried it. Connected the bare print to the loom, ignition on... > priming procedure > power to coils! Yesyesyesyes!

Now to reassemble everything and hope it's not a case of 'intermittent ECU'. 

Will post some 2x4 pixel pictures of this endeavour as soon as possible 😁

[Mechanism]

I hope this serves someone in the future, as the forum has served me for years. 

After removal of the ECU lid we see a nice clean print:

[Mechanism]

But after turning it over, I noticed a bunch of oxidation connecting the traces on the board. The components close to the corner have been visibly hot because of this. 

[gstallons]

. IDK what you can use to remove the oxidation ?

Edited Monday at 03:22 PM by gstallons

[Mechanism]

After a good clean, we can see the components have not actually been burnt, but they've been hot. I connected the board to the bike very carefully and finally, the fuelpump primes again and there is power to the coils as well. 

Now to stick everything back together and hope it will keep working! 

[gstallons]

That one little connection looks sketchy but if you can live w/it . 

[Mechanism]

To clean the PCB I used Isopropyl alcohol, a very soft toothbrush and before everything dries a modest rinse with demineralized water (to move all that oxidation residue off). Then make sure the board is completely dry before testing.