Any reason why rockers would be tight even backed right off?f

[Molly]

Sorry guys. After help again... 

Doing clearances. Right side. D marker showing. Piston crown visible.  No play in rockers. Backed off completely. Still no play. Any thoughts? 

Thanks in advance. Do appreciate your help. 

 

[Lucky Phil]

3 minutes ago, Molly said:

Sorry guys. After help again... 

Doing clearances. Right side. D marker showing. Piston crown visible.  No play in rockers. Backed off completely. Still no play. Any thoughts? 

Thanks in advance. Do appreciate your help. 

 

You're trying to set the clearances on the overlap. Turn it another 360 degrees.

Phil

[pete roper]

Wot he sed 

[Molly]

Thank you, gentlemen. 

Appreciated, as always. 

[gstallons]

Unless you are done ,remove the alternator cover and spark plugs and bar the engine over to find TDC on one side. You work  on one side at a time.. You are going to have valves rocking or valves are at rest. If the valves are at rest , Adjust both valves using Int. specs . measure the clearance between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm.  I set mine on the loose side of the clearance making sure the feeler gauge slides in / out easily . Keep the feeler gauges well oiled so they will not rust. the moment they look less than perfect, toss 'em and get new buying a good brand. Proceed to the other head. This is so easy to do , just do it a couple of times to gain confidence in what you are doing and your procedure . You can look at the flywheel or use a screwdriver going through the spark plug hole to find TCD .

 

 

Edited yesterday at 01:31 PM by gstallons
more info

[audiomick]

1 minute ago, gstallons said:

... use a screwdriver going through the spark plug hole to find TCD .

I prefer to use something that will not cause any damage if I'm not paying attention and let it get jammed.

Mostly I use a bit of heat shrink tube, about 8 mm thick and about 12 cm long. It was not chosen for any reason other than it happened to be lying on the bench when I was looking for something to use. It worked very well, so I kept it. It is rigid enough to give a good indication, but will give in if it gets jammed somehow.

[LowRyter]

I put a mark on the alternator rotor for at 12:00 for "D", then "S" is at 3:00.   Of course, you could be 360 out but it's pretty easy.  IIRC, the rotor itself is keyed on there, so even it's taken apart and reassembled it should still clock.

[gstallons]

You can put anything down in the spark plug hole that will come out in the same amount that was installed. You will be barring this crank over so you will be able to pull the rod out while you are barring the engine over finding TDC.  

I used a 18" 1/4" extension to find TDC on a Nissan Titan yesterday using a LONG handle 1/2" drive ratchet on the c/shaft to bar it over . Take it slow n take it easy . 

 We have professionals and novices on here , for the ones that know a lot feel free to add input or corrections . For the beginners don't be afraid to as if you're not sure. Everyone here is glad to assist.  HTH.

[Pressureangle]

for finding TDC on compression, that is the 'within 5 degrees' way I use a wooden dowel. Plenty stiff but soft enough to stop you breaking it off without damaging anything. 

But that shouldn't be necessary if your timing marks are visible, a bit of carb cleaner and a pencil eraser (do they still make them?) and see that both valves are loose. 

[GuzziMoto]

Man, I am too late to this party. But I have to throw in my two cents anyway. My preferred way of choice is to use a straw in the sparkplug hole to find TDC. A straw is rigid enough to feel for the piston but will not hurt anything. And I put the trans in gear and rotate the rear wheel to spin the motor over. That way I never have to worry about whether or not I am rotating the motor in the correct direction. With both plugs out and in a taller gear the motor spins over easy. But to each their own on that.

Finally, as have been alluded to, whatever method you are using to find TDC there is always two different TDCs. One where the valves are at overlap and both valves are open and the other where both valves are fully closed. It doesn't matter if you are using the marks on the flywheel, a mark you made on the alternator, an object in the sparkplug hole to find when the piston is at the top of its stroke. There are two different times when the piston is at top dead center, and it will cycle back and forth between TDC with the valves at overlap, then TDC where both valves are closed, then again TDC where both valves are at overlap. If you put it at TDC and the valves do not have clearance, rotate the motor 360 degrees, watching the valves as you rotate.

There, I feel better....

[gstallons]

Wheat straw or soda straw ?

Have you ever dropped a bike ? I have and it never gets old.  You say words Chris Rock would have to walk out on.

 Concerning all the TDCs. Yes, one TDC will have the valves rocking and one TDC the valves will be still . This is where the 4 stroke philosophy comes in to play 

[audiomick]

3 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

...whether or not I am rotating the motor in the correct direction. ...

Good point, that. It is good practice to always approach the point you are going to measure at in the normal direction of rotation. Turning the motor backwards wont do any damage, but it is good to go past where you want to get to, and then up to your point in the normal rotation direction. Not critical, possibly, but doing so makes sure that things like cam-chains and whatever all have the lash taken out as they normally do when the motor is running.

[gstallons]

I am sure Phil was giving Molly the best/correct diagnosis , he was trying to adjust the valves on the valve overlap stroke instead of the ignition stroke.