throttle intake cough - throw-off

[tomsp]

OK, I'm riding home in 102-104 degree heat, everything running fine and I'm tired. The goose starts sputtering and coughing. After about 10 miles I figure out "something must be wrong here " So I look down and my left throttle body shoe intake sleeve thingy is not where its supposed to be. It blew off the intake. A flat head screw driver put it right soon enough but what is this from???

 

Heat??? Were my two bolts I inserted into where the vacuum nipple was too long and interferred with the intake? Why do these bikes occationally do that?

 

info

[docc]

My Sport used to blow off an intake boot when the TPS and throttle body synch were off.

[al_roethlisberger]

...yep, it's got a "state of tune" issue

 

 

Check the TB balance, TPS, and if possible check to see if it's running lean or rich.....

 

 

Mine used to do the same until I had the bike "tuned", including adjusting the valves to a looser spec.

 

al

[RacerX]

OK, I'm  riding home in 102-104 degree heat, everything running fine and I'm tired.  The goose starts sputtering and coughing... So I look down and my left throttle body shoe intake sleeve thingy is not where its supposed to be.  It blew off the intake... what is this from???

I'd say your up against a lean-induced sneeze... fairly common on a stock, non-touched, bike. Has your bike's TPS been adjusted to "make it really run" setting? Do you have any mods?

Heat is the enemy as the 15M ECU leans the mixture the warmer it gets.

As Al suggests too... tuning outside this can play a major role as well.

 

Look to the TPS, or if you've modded your bike... an adjustable fuel injection module. Those who know me know my favorite.

 

$.02 Todd@GuzziTech.com

[tomsp]

ok on the tb balance- it would help that wouldn't it if I connected the 2 vacuum nipples back on and run a line between the two?? no? I did adjust my vlaves 2 months ago to the world type specs. Only things that have changed was the heat outside and the taking off of emission stuff and plugging the vacuum ports.

 

My idle appears great at 1k. So why not just adjust that little knob of the left side and skip all the rest of the tb balance and idle stuff?

 

In the past I have noticed that while riding constant at 3k (like using the throttlemeister) the bike will cough, stutter, etc., occasionally. Is this all related?

 

on the tps voltage check - where on the 1Aw15 do I do that.-- take off the cover? any help here would help ( )

 

on the tb balance - can I use any old manometer to connect between the two?

[jrt]

ok on the tb balance- it would help that wouldn't it if I connected the 2 vacuum nipples back on and run a line between the two?? no? I did adjust my vlaves 2 months ago to the world type specs. Only things that have changed was the heat outside and the taking off of emission stuff and plugging the vacuum ports.

 

connecting the ports or not isn't going to make much difference. Just don't leave 'em open

 

My idle appears great at 1k. So why not just adjust that little knob of the left side and skip all the rest of the tb balance and idle stuff?

 

Because it doesn't address the root problem, and you'll most likely get it set worse than when you started.

 

In the past I have noticed that while riding constant at 3k (like using the throttlemeister) the bike will cough, stutter, etc., occasionally. Is this all related?

 

Yes. very much so. 3-3.8K is the worst.

 

on the tps voltage check - where on the 1Aw15 do I do that.-- take off the cover? any help here would help (  )

 

Most people check it at the throttle body. See here:

http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3228

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3299

and associated links.

 

on the tb balance - can I use any old manometer to connect between the two?

 

Yes, you should be able to. Most people have switched to using a 'TwinMax' or similar. I would also advocate that because it lessens the potential for a mercury spill. You can make a $2 manometer from water if you want also. I don't know how well they work.

 

I cannot address the 'adjustable fuel injection module' since I dont have one, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.

J

[Guest davidb]

I use a "slack tube" I made and put water and food coloring in it so I can see it better. Then I use a short tube on each one and let it suck up some marvel mystery oil to clean the top of the pistons (carbon removal)

[twhitaker]

Ianj shows how to build a water manometer on page 4 in the How To section. I've got the hose, staples, and the board. Now, I've just got to get the round tu-it.

[tomsp]

you all got me reading the threads on TPS and tb balance, etc. Several take the TPS mv reading at the throttle body where the tps is and not at the little computer under the seat - but then they talk about measuring at terminals 16 and 30 on ecu. One thread says to trace the wires back to the ecu and measure there (like I said). So if I measure at the tps, how do I do that

 

I want to do all this but I'll need to read and then ask questions!

 

Does that PCIII really help and do I still need to do all this if I get that!

 

A BMW site had an inexpensive manometer - sounded like Dave's idea. I can get those parts and assemble that (yardstick with 3/16 clear tubing, etc.)

[RacerX]

you all got me reading the threads on TPS and tb balance, etc.  Several take the TPS mv reading at the throttle body where the tps is and not at the little computer under the seat - but then they talk about measuring at terminals 16 and 30 on ecu. 

 

Does that PCIII really help and do I still need to do all this if I get that!

tomsp, Best and easiest place to take the reading is at the TPS on the throttle body. The pins you refer to is the older bikes (96-98) ECU.

 

A PCIIIusb is a must, IMO, and yes you'll need to know how to check/adjust your TPS as the PCIII simply corrects the mixture based off of the TPS voltage... it needs to match the voltage in which the map was built around.

 

You can read the endorsements page for your own opinion on the PCIII;

http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII.html

 

Any more questions, feel free to contact me direct:

Todd@GuzziTech.com

[tomsp]

I've been reading all the threads on setting the TPS and balancing the TB. Checked into getting the guzziology book too. I tested the mV reading at the TPS with TB still linked - got 345.8 mV which just tells me that I need to unlink those TB's and have rt side closed, etc. (but my reading is still way off the 500mV it should be while linked , right?) Warming up to it!

 

Do we have a diagram showing where all the set screws are located on those TB's? Where is the one for the left side TB on the lemans? and how does one "carefully pry apart" the right side ball joint linkage. Do I carefully put the screwdriver into the ball joint itself and pry it open? Oh brother!

[Ray]

I got a TB balancer from Evoluzione - is this the Twinmax? I have not yet used it. Is it suitable? - was about $15.

[al_roethlisberger]

Nope, the Evoluzione gizmo is an old style "manual" device, and I've good and bad things about those.... the TwinMax is electronic:

 

http://www.calamander.co.uk/twinmax/twinmaxmk2.htm

 

 

 

I think they sell for a bit under $100.

 

Major

 

al

[docc]

You can pop the right side linkage off by prying down on it with a flat blade screwdiver. It has a sucky feel to it and I feel bad every time I do it. But it hasn't broken yet ( 32,000 miles).

 

There are some diagrams in Guzziology and some in the shop manual. The goopy yellow EPA paint was indispensible in finding all the little screws and adjusters that I feel compeeled to fettle.

[tomsp]

I rode to Carl's place in Modesto this a.m. and we fooled around with my TPS setting -- it was waaaay off. Carl's an amazing guy- like with 4 (did I loose count?) guzzi's laying around. We messed with the TPS setting (practice is a good thing) on his 1100i -- that is one beautiful bike).