Guest Bruce Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 This is a subject that has always bugged me a bit, namely what is the proper way to run in a new tire. And why. From my questions I obviously don't know diddly about it but am probably not the only one. Thanks in advance. My understanding is that you gradually go faster on it for awhile (?) and this gets rid of the mold release which is an inherent part of the manufacturing process. Sounds like... and the stork brings the baby to me. So here goes with the dumb questions Is mold release enbedded in the rubber or on the surface? Does it wear off via mechanical abrasion or does it evaporate ( ie change state ) due to heat? If it wears off how do you get enough traction to heel it over on the outer edges to accomplish this? Are car tires manufactured differently, I've never heard of anyone breaking in a car tire. How about racing tires? What do racers do, and why. Its hard to believe that product liability lawyers wouldn't have a field day with this.
Guest 2001f4s Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 I have always been very careful about scrubbing in new tires on my bikes. But my last set of tires I tried the recommendation of a friend and it seems to have worked great. I used a product called 3M adhesive remover. I put it on a rag and used it to clean the mold release off of the tires. After using this stuff, the new tire looked as if it had been fully scrubbed in. I ride this particular bike fairly aggressively and had no problem hanging off the bike on the first time out. I don't know if this stuff is detrimental to the tire life, but so far with about 2800 miles on the tire it seems to be holding up as normal. My $0.02 Scott
callison Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Having had two accidents on new rear tires when just pulling away from stop signs, I definitely urge caution when breaking in new tires. What I do now when I mount new tires is take an electric pad sander to the tire tread and remove the sheen. This doesn't remove enough material (next to nothing in fact) to affect tire life, but it sure does make for peace of mind.
Ray Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 I read an article, years ago, maybe in Motorcycle Consumer News, that advised the same thing - tire grooming - put the bike on a rear stand, running and in gear (Caution!) and you can reshape flat-spots and uneven wear with a drywall rasp and sandpaper. I have not tried this myself, maybe this is the excuse to buy a rear stand. This is not a bad way to restore the original profile if you do lots of highway miles. Also perfect way for posers to groom out their chicken strips...
emry Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Is mold release enbedded in the rubber or on the surface? On the surface. It is similar to car wax, it is used to help prevent the rubber from sticking to the mold that the tread is formed and vulcanized in. Does it wear off via mechanical abrasion or does it evaporate ( ie change state ) due to heat? Mechanical, light scuffing works just fine. If it wears off how do you get enough traction to heel it over on the outer edges to accomplish this? It only take a few revolutions of the tire to wear the compound off. As the bike is leaned over the majority of the contact patch has already scuffed. Lean it over a little farther and a little more is scuffed. As long as the rider isn't really pushing it the available contact patch is more than adequate. Are car tires manufactured differently, I've never heard of anyone breaking in a car tire. Nope. Cars have a much larger contact patch plus more of them. Also cars don't have the side loading that a motorcycle can generate. How about racing tires? What do racers do, and why. Made the same, and scuffed the same. Watch a racer leave the pits during practice, he will normally "tip-toe" the first few corners until the is scuffed. At races like Daytona the tire for the race are scuffed during practice and then saved for the race, this also gives the rider a chance to make sure that the tire is balanced and not out-of-round. Which at Daytona or Brainerd would be a big problem. Tires that are not worn in will normally be cleaned with a chemical cleaning agent. 3M's product works great.
Guest Bruce Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Thanks, that certainly takes the mystery out of it.
belfastguzzi Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 I used a product called 3M adhesive remover. This is interesting. Does the 3M stuff remove old Gaffa tape glue? I don't know anything that makes a good job of cleaning that dreadful residue up. Maybe this is it? I wonder where I can get it?
Guest 2001f4s Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 This is interesting. Does the 3M stuff remove old Gaffa tape glue? I don't know anything that makes a good job of cleaning that dreadful residue up. Maybe this is it? I have had very good luck with it removing old adhesive, tar and other crap. You can pick it up at most auto paint shops. It comes in a spray or can with a spout. Scott
GuzzTim Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 ditto on success w/ removing adhesive... Is "gaffa tape" belfast speak for duct tape ? Cheers, Tim
belfastguzzi Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 yep: gaffa tape, gaffer tape, duct tape, duck tape, elephant tape, etc. etc. It holds the world together, but only for so long – and then it leaves a horrible mess. The worst is when it has been used to repair seat covers and hand grips.
strider Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 Alcohol removes the release agent from the tyre as well. A good tyre shop will remove the release agent for you. Two Wheel Tyres, Blacksoil, and Motor Trade Machinists, Goodna; (both in Queensland Australia) have the attitude that nobody will have an accident on a bike that leaves their premises because of a dangerous substance being left on the tyre(s). Got to admire that attitude. Most other dealers couldn't care less. I read an article written by Avon Tyres once that recommended bedding in tyres by riding smoothly for approximately 160 km (100 miles) and avoiding heavy braking and fast accelleration. I forget the exact figure but they stated approximately 10% better tyre life. The article explained that this allows the plies to properly align. Haven't had the Lemon long enough to do a comparison but it seemed to work on my ST1100. Cheers
Guest Bruce Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 This makes sense. We extrude plastics and heat cycling will cause 'stresses' to relax out of the product. There is actually a Mil Spec test with repeated heat cycles. If we've done everything right not much happens but occassionally there is movement which is quite visible. I had some of the 3M stuff in the garage so I gave it a go on the old tire just to see what happens. The rag immediately blackens indicating that rubber is being removed. Where the edge was hard, shiny, and slippery to the touch, it now looks dull and feels tacky. Say goodby to embarrassing chicken strips. Good stuff. I'm going to wipe down the new stuff with 3M solvent and take it easy for the first 100miles. Thanks to all
Guest ratchethack Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 In recent years I've been prepping new tires by putting my bikes up on a stand to get the tire off the ground and roughing up the surface using a belt sander with a 50 grit belt. Once you get the tire spinning with the belt, hold the sander angled off-center and move it around using even pressure across the face of the tread. After this there's next to zip wear-in required.
Ray Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 I also think another issue is related to tires sitting around in the warehouse - the rubber on the surface does harden to exposure to air (and light?) Another term for duct tape: Redneck chrome!
Guest vkerrigan Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 The latest (Sept.) issue of Motorcyclist has a write-up on how to scrub tires. Much of the article reenforces things said previously in this thread.....vk
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