V11 non-Ohlins settings

[Guest Bruce]

Graham,

Good stuff, thanks for sharing the wealth. Suspension tuning seems like such a black art to me. The one variable you didn't mention was tire pressure.

 

Yesterday I gave it a go on the roughest backroad in the area with your settings and it was much better than the last go ( this time I could see pretty well ) but I'm thinking that it could be better ( maybe a progessive spring ? ).

 

It feels a bit stiff on 'up ramp' type of bumps ( ie front end not reacting fast enough to soak it up? ) and the front bottomed hard several times. Also there was a bit of head shake on occasion which could be due to the tester being a bit tense.

 

Before I take it all apart again I thought I'd mess about with tire pressures a bit. I run what the book recommends ( 2.3/2.5 ) do you have any recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Bruce

[Guest Graham in NZ]

Hi, Bruce

 

No suspension setup will ever be perfect and the V11's is no exception.

 

As I said in my original posting, the front of the V11 is in line with general Ohlins recommendations regarding static and laden sag figures but the rear is too softly sprung. What the rear needs is a stiffer spring so that the load of sharp impacts is taken by the spring and not by the impact damping which seems too firm in its action. The front end seems reasonable to me in most situations, but a bit less impact damping seems better there too.

 

Increasing the rear preload by more that 2.5 turns brings diminishing sag returns, indicating that the spring is operating at its optimum. A stiffer spring would take the initial impact load sooner than a progressive one, and so would be preferable on the V11.

 

It would take a suspension expert to provide a more suitable spring, and to re-valve for less impact damping to allow the spring to act before the damping. Remember that it's the spring's job to take load and the damping's job to control the speed of spring-reaction to load.

 

Without changing the hardware, the settings I've posted are the best compromise I've found through experimentation.

 

As for tyre pressures, I always use the recommended pressures, set with cold tyres. While playing with pressures will almost certainly bring benefits under certain conditions, the stock settings are generally best overall for road riding, especially in cold or moderate temperatures. When it's very hot, lowering the pressures a bit would help the tyre operate at the correct pressure for its design when running.

 

Some tail wagging at high speed over bumps and when cornering is a characteristic of these bikes. The later ones with frame changes are better but still not perfect. You don't say how fast you were going when you experienced it, but mine does it only at speeds over 180kph. If you're getting wagging in slower bends than that it may be that you need to pay more attention to keeping a steadily increasing throttle though corners to calm the shaft drive effects.

 

For faster winding roads I set the steering damper at 8 clicks from minimum and at minimum for slow riding.

 

Regards

Graham

[robbiekb]

I just want to feel confidant that I can ride her anywhere, anytime.

I feel the same way about a long term relationship with my girlfriend

hahahahahahahahahahahaha

 

bring yer bike to work tomorrow Dave, lets go for a ride

[Guest dkgross]

 

bring yer bike to work tomorrow Dave, lets go for a ride

HAHAHAHA.

 

Doubt the bike will be out of the shop tomorrow. I'm hoping to pick it up wednesday, but I've got an early morning. IF she's ready, it'll probably be thursday am before I can get her (or tomorrow AFTER work...depends on the shop...)

[Guest Bruce]

Thanks Graham,

 

Having done some off road racing and having watched way too many races I understand what you mean about the elusiveness of suspension tuning. Still I found the engine to be responsive to carefull tuning and suspect the suspension may be as well. No matter how expensive and beautiful the parts may be they still need to be tuned for conditions and the only one that can say 'hotter or colder' is the rider. This is the part where I've always been a bit confused.

 

Awhile back I read an article where the writer said " you should feel the bump, not hate the bump". Well I found a few I hated which makes me think the front needs to be stiffer. But, it tends to launch off of some up-ramps ( we used to use such things to loft the front end off roading ) which makes me think softer. Or is it stiffer spring and less damping? Part of the fun.

 

On the road in question 120kph is bookin' it due to the brutal frost heaves. Admittedly a harsh test. Bike felt pretty good else where.

 

Bruce

[Guest Graham in NZ]

Bruce

 

It's easy to confuse apparent fork bottoming where you think the fork is too soft with over-active impact damping. The sag figures suggest that the fork springs are OK, which is why I settled for reduced impact damping at the front as well as for the rear shock.

 

Road surface heaves are a test for any bike. Be kind to your V11 and forgive it a few wags over them.

 

Regards

Graham