Guest bshpilot Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 ok just wonderin' here but i just checked the valves (little over due) the intakes werent so bad...a LITTLE loose (i set 'em by the book .100mm intake) but the EXHAUST was so tight KY wouldnt have helped is this unusual ??? the book calls for .150mm exhaust clearance.... i couldnt get a .050 to go... it starts fine and idles fine (havent ridden it cause ive been drinkin' beer/smokin' cigars...buddy stopped by when i was finishing up) im just wondering if this is the "norm" for the 1st service/valve inspection also whats the freekin' torque setting on the valve cover....the factory service man. SUX (and yeah i bought the big/over priced one) !
jrt Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 Sounds a little tight- keep an eye on them and record the before and after settings for a few tuneups. I'll wager it will run better now. The .1/.15 settings are US specific and are still REALLY TIGHT. World settings are .15/.2 and you'll be a lot better off with that. It will idle better and run stronger. Raceco settings are even looser at .2/.25 (intake/exhaust) and they seem to work fine too. As always, you are much better off with loose valve settings than tight. Sounds cool, too. Torque on the 6mm bolts should be 7 ft/lbs. I just snug them up firmly, but not tightly. Cheers, J
Guest Graham in NZ Posted August 15, 2004 Posted August 15, 2004 bshpilot At the first 1k service both inlet and exhaust clearances on my bike were loose by 0.05mm. At 5k the same applied. At 15k the inlets were un-moved but the exhausts had opened again by a bit under 0.05mm. All that suggests that the tendency is for the clearances to open rather than close. As jrt suggests it would be wise to keep an eye on them, but my guess is that you'll find they will open rather than close, suggesting that someone set them too tightly. Are you getting true TDC by using the flywheel timing marks? The procedure is well set out on this website. It's wise to use the S and D marks to sensure you have the correct positioning when setting the valves. Also important is for the engine to be stone cold when the valves are set. M6 screws into alloy usually like no more than 3 to 4 lb/ft. I don't torque mine but use a short 70mm ratchet and just snug the screws which seem to stay that way OK. Graham
twhitaker Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 Here is how I find TDC. Cranking the engine around by using the hex on the alternator I bring it around to where the intake valve has just closed. Here you are on the beginning of the compression stroke for that cylinder. I stick a straw into the spark plug hole and watch the piston come up. When it stops coming up it is at TDC. A buddy of mine will move the crank back and forth a little to find the loosest spot with his feeler gage.
Guest jerroldt Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 I just set my valves at 1600 miles. The intake and exhaust were both at .009 inches before adjustment. I reset them to .006 intake and .008 exhaust and the bike runs perfectly. When using the rear wheel to move the power train in 6th gear, it is almost impossible to find the "D" and "S" marks on the flywheel. When you spin the rear wheel the flywheel really does fly. I looked for TDC when both intake and exhaust rockers could be shaken and the pushrods would spin freely and ignored the false TDC when the valves overlap. I adjusted the valves and then repeated the cycle serveral times and rechecked clearances. I may be anal in sorting and labeling parts but that was just what I was taught while on board an old steam turbine powered destroyer when everything depended on parts going back where they were meant to be. I tightened the valve cover screws with a short Allen/hex head wrench by hand and no leaks.
Baldini Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 This is experience off Tontis, but it probably applies to V11's also .... I've found exhaust clearance does tend to close up (valve/seat wear?). I prefer to set the larger clearances. I've always found TDC by rotating crank on alternator bolt to find comp stroke, (both rockers loose off valves) then using large flat blade screwdriver thru timing inspection window to gently lever flywheel round to alignment marks. A marker thru sparkplug hole will tell if flywheel marks are accurate (as twhitaker outlines). If they're out it's worth redoing them. KB
Guest erikhorton Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 ....the factoryservice man. SUX (and yeah i bought the big/over priced one) ! bshpilot mentioned this and I've heard a few other mentions. Is there another service manual that is better, if so, where can I get it.
jrt Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 A real easy way to find the compression stroke is just to put your thumb over the spark plug hole when you turn the engine. If you feel pressure...it's the compression stroke. I then use a wooden ke bab skewer to find TDC (it was handy). The damn marks on the flywheel are inset too deep for me to see easily. Besides, you can get it spot on with the dowel trick. And if not...the cam lobe is gentle enough that you really don't have to be *exactly* at TDC. 'Close' works just fine, and errors lend themselves to looser valves (a good thing). Re: torque on the 6mm bolts. I have 7 ft/lbs written down in my archives, but 3-4 does sound safer. They just need to be snug. J
jrt Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 Steve Saady wrote up a how-to on setting the valves on a Cali. Same applies to the Sport (although I leave my bike in neutral....) http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tec...-adjustment.htm J
Guest Brian Robson Posted August 16, 2004 Posted August 16, 2004 What up with the heading of this thread..."tighter than a etc". Why add the phrase, and why hasn't a moderator found this insulting? Al, have the last word please this time...but this time only
Guest dkgross Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 as I learn more and more about the bike...with the feeble thought in my mind that SOMEDAY, I might pick up a wrench without causing myself or my bike irreperable harm...I'd like a BRIEF (go easy on me, Al) explanation of why you guys set the valves SO much looser than 'spec'. be gentle on my brain. it's fragile. Too much information will just leak out and puddle on the floor.
twhitaker Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 What up with the heading of this thread..."tighter than a etc". Why add the phrase, and why hasn't a moderator found this insulting? Al, have the last word please this time...but this time only I think what he meant to say was, "Tighter than a Virginian."
Guest dkgross Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 haha...fixed it. can't type. and Brian can be gentle on my brain as he explains the valve thingy....
Guest GGuzzi Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 What up with the heading of this thread..."tighter than a etc". Why add the phrase, and why hasn't a moderator found this insulting? Al, have the last word please this time...but this time only I personally don't find it offensive. Before I had s-x I used to keep my money in a wallet.
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