Battery Deathbed Behaviour

[GuzzTim]

So... just to confirm my thoughts here..

 

I've got a battery that went flat awhile ago.. Charged it up with a trickle charger, it worked, then died a day later.

 

Took it to the dealer, they did a deep charge on it and load tested it after letting it sit overnight. The load test was ok..

 

Brought it home, it died a couple of days later.

 

Bought a BMW Gell trickle charger. Fully charged the battery and now it won't crank the engine even though its showing 13+ volts ..

 

When batteries die, do they lose their cranking power even though they might show and be fully charged?

 

Or perhaps I've got a loose connection at the starter that is introducing too much resistance?

 

Cheers, Tim

 

Cheers, Tim

[Guest davidb]

yes, with lead/acid you can use a hydrometer, with that gel battery, load testing is best. I would suspect a drain somewhere in the system for it to go dead. A loose connection will not drain it, but a stuck relay or a small short will.

[GuzzTim]

when it first started acting up, I took my multi meter and put it in series between the negative terminal and the disconnected negative wires.

 

With the key off, there was no current so I assumed that there wasn't a stuck relay or short somewhere in the circuit..

 

So if that still holds, I guess my basic question would be whether you can have a battery that shows 13+ volts, but doesn't have the amps to crank the engine?

 

 

Thanks . Tim

[twhitaker]

Or perhaps I've got a loose connection at the starter that is introducing too much resistance?

 

Look at the positive connection at the starter. Look inside the starter solenoid for signs of corrosion or arcing.

 

How about the clutch switch or the sidestand switch? Does the fuel pump come on?

[DVH]

connect the multimeter across the batt, then operate the starter, what sort of voltage are you getting?

[Lex]

when it first started acting up, I took my multi meter and put it in series between the negative terminal and the disconnected negative wires.

 

With the key off, there was no current so I assumed that there wasn't a stuck relay or short somewhere in the circuit..  

 

So if that still holds, I guess my basic question would be whether you can have a battery that shows 13+ volts, but doesn't have the amps to crank the engine?

Thanks . Tim

34654[/snapback]

 

Tim,

 

In answer to your question, yes your battery can have 13+ volts and not spin the starter. Voltage and amperage are like torque and RPM, you need both to make power. Power is what moves things, be it your bike or the starter.

 

What does the bike do why you try to start it? Does the starter click or try to work but not spin the engine or does nothing happen at all? If it is the former that points to the battery being weak (likely) or the current not getting to the starter (not likely)or the starter being bad (not too likely but it is a merd, sorry, Valeo). It is the latter look into the side stand switch, relays, ect. as suggested above.

 

One more test, can the bike be bump (push) started? If the engine spins freely and you have sparks and fuel it should run. If it does that points to the battery or starter. It takes a lot less current to run the overhead (lights and such), injection and ignition than the starter plus the overhead, injection and ignition.

 

Assuming the battery is weak the suggestions you check the voltage while the battery is under load is a good one. If the voltage drops more than one or 1.5 volts the battery is dead. I'd say your battery is probably shot but the results of the load tests say it is not. Assuming you did your tests on an autoranging DVM or you were on a very low scale your bike not showing any draw with the ignition off says the problem is not drain. The only way to be sure would be to charge the battery off the bike, let it sit for a day or two and put it in the bike. If it acts like it is too weak to turn the engine it is shot.

 

Good luck,

 

Lex

[Ballacraine]

Usual checks are for cleanliness & tighness of all connections. Firstly check the battery connections are clean & tight, then check all earths.

 

This, along with dodgy relays, should eliminate most of the possibilities. Then to do the job thoroughly, all other connections should really be checked.

 

How old is the battery?

 

Nige.

[GuzzTim]

well its just a dead battery.. its 3 yrs old, although I only bought it in Feb of this year.

 

After taking it off the charger it was about 13 volts.

 

Tried starting it, and it started right up.. Shut it down and voltage was about 12.5..

 

Left it and went out w/ the kids for a couple of hours.. Came back and it spun the engine twice, then just clicks.. voltage was 11.5

 

New battery time.. thanks for all the feedback. I gotta make sure I park on a hill if I go riding !

 

 

Cheers,. Tim

[Ralph Werner]

A mechanic friend once told me that batteries start dying the day that you buy them. If I have more than two years on a battery and it starts acting up, I simply buy a new one. I think his observation is right on (this is especially important in an outboard boat when fishing offshore in December).

 

I have witnessed, several times, batteries that read 13 volts and yet don't have enough amperage to light the tail light.

 

Moral - don't mess with an old battery!

[Steve G.]

My battery did the same thing, and I have the same year bike as yours. The thing is toast. Interestingly, with these sealed gel batteries, in my case the new Oddessy, it says do not trickle or otherwise use a maintain charge on it. Through the winter, they say unhook the negative and positive, and leave it in the bike all winter. It is ready to go the next spring.

Ciao, Steve G.

[badmotogoozer]

I deal with gel cells at work all the time. Best thing to do to store them is to charge them up to full capacity, then disconnect and store in the fridge. Not the freezer. The lower temp slows the chemical reaction and limits the amount of "self discharge". This self discharge is about 20% per month for a gel cell. After a few months the battery loses its charge and begins to sulfate. Once it sulfates, no worky any more.

 

You might even charge them once mid winter. Constant trickle charge is unneccesary and constant charge without current draw can be harmful long term.

 

just my 2 cdn pesos...

 

Rj

[callison]

The Hawker Odyssey batteries are supposed to have such pure metal content that they don't sulphate or generate gases. I like them, pay the higher price for them, but I am aware that they fail. I've lost two to external pressure on the case (it doesn't take a whole lot) and one to (just plain stupdity really) being hooked to ground on the positive terminal.

 

 

Here's a good source for the Odyssey batteries here in the USA:

 

 

Odyssey battery for V11 Sports