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Posted

Antonio,

 

If you get a new one, get a yuasa I have an even smaller one as the 13 Ah from the v11, that lasted 9 years before geting a bit weak. I payed 60 euro at the bike shop, not even the cheapest place.

 

Getting the right brand is important.

 

their chart gives a ytx15L-bs as the right type for the v11.

I use a ytx9-bs, a lot smaller, lighter and cheaper. Some googeling gets the ytx16bs for 86 euro. that's a size bigger, so the 15 should be less.

http://www.motoronderdelen.nl

 

the 15 is also used in bombardier atv

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Posted

No the 16 has different size and is to big, So mail them, if they can get you the 15 or, look for a smaller one it the application list:

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/yuaapp.pdf

 

Most do have the poles L/R reversed, I don't know if your cables are long enough to get to the other side.

 

From what I see the YTX 12-Bs fits, is 10 Ah instead of 13Ah, size is same, only 150 mm wide instead of 175. Only reverse wires

Posted

Paul, the AWS has the right battery, YEPPY! 79,95- Euro.

 

YTX15L-BS

size 175 x 130 x 87

12V 13Ah

I hope only that the cold start enough is.....Cross the fingers for me, wil you?

 

But before I am gonna buy this battery, I am going to charge the old one up. And measure the damn dynamo.

Posted

When using your trickle-charger, do you disconnect the battery to protect the electrics, or are they robust enough to take it? Do not want to fry a bunch of expensive stuff. k

Posted

stormsedge,

I would disconnect the battery before charging just to play it safe. When my battery was flat I jumpstarted it, something you're not meant to do. After that I had it charged. I removed the battery and took it to the experts. It requires a constant voltage charger, well that's what the manual says. My battery is OK now, it just went flat before I got my bike on the road, why does yours need a trickle charge?

Rob.

Posted

The old battery is now charged up. The bike start very well and rides old fashion.

I spoke to the dealer, he told me it is the battery and not the voltage regulator as I thought. I did change the fuse 30A and I think I did now all I could.

If there is some leak in the Elektra cables, where …I don’t know, I have to search this leak and I don’t know I to start seeking.

I know now what my Christmas present will be……a battery charger! It costs around € 40 – 50 ,- Later this morning I will go for a ride and speak the man-who-knows-much, that will be Ted at Motortoer, Amsterdam and ask where his suspicion has based for.

 

ciao

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I measured the following voltages over the w/e (intermittent charging light was NOT illuminated at the time) for info :

 

Pre-start = 12.6V

At idle = 12.1V

At 2000 rpm = 15.1V

 

Shortly after posting these measurements, I got caught with a flat battery (surprisingly after about a 30 min ride) but was able to bump start and get home.

 

I put the battery tender on overnight and was fully charged next day.

 

Interestingly - the battery/charging light has not come on, even intermittently for the last few rides - so I wonder if the charging light was just a symptom of low charge in the battery. Anyone know how the basis of how the indicator light works?

 

Gio

 

PS - I still expect to need to either replace battery (now almost 5 years old) or look further into alternator output, but am curious about the indicator light...

Posted
When using your trickle-charger, do you disconnect the battery to protect the electrics, or are they robust enough to take it?  Do not want to fry a bunch of expensive stuff.  k

36824[/snapback]

 

 

Stormsedge,

 

I have been using an Optimate which actually ships with an adapter that you connect to your battery and then just plug in - I have been leaving it plugged in as a matter of course whenever I get back from a ride with the battery still hooked up without (so far !) and problems

 

Ken

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