dbdicker Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Proving once again that I wasn't born to wrench my own bike......... On trying to remove the rear wheel, the axle nut is moving with the axle. I know this must be simple, but I can't seem to find a place to hold on to the spindle while undoing the bolt. There seems to be some sort of collar washer around the spindle inside of the nut, but I don't know how to remove it, or if it actually is intended to be removed. On reinstallation, I'll seemingly have the same problem, isolating the axle while tightening the axle nut. What a dope I am, eh? Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 22, 2004 Author Share Posted October 22, 2004 whoops, my bad........ a little liquid wrench and it came right out. I'm ridiculously pathetic, aren't I? On to the front....... Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 can't seem to find a place to hold on to the spindle while undoing the bolt... Err...You've found the short hex adaptor in the bike's toolkit fits in the axle on the right (drive) side (remove rubber gromet)? A socket & wrench/bar fits on this to hold or turn the axle. Support the drivebox/shaft with a strap when you take off the wheel. Removing the caliper from it's bracket makes job easier (don't forget to clip brake line back into bracket behind s/a). Careful when removing calipers - it's very easy to scrape paint off wheel, there's not much clearance. While you've got rear wheel out it's worth checking the roller bearing in outside of drivebox is greased, and that wheelbearings are good. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 Thanks KB, Got it sorted. Both wheels off and ready for new rubber. Gonna change the brake pads to KBC sintered for more bite. You're right, not much room to get those calipers out. Had to enlist my son for an extra pair of hands........... how do all you guys do it? I've got neat piles of bolts and tools everywhere........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 uhh, one more question...... When removing the rear wheel, it allowed the rear suspension to fully extend, misaligning the axle space. How will I ever reinstall the wheel, inserting the spindle while compressing the suspension enough at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 If you leave the axle in the bevel box, everything is pretty much in alignment, all you need is a piece of wood 1 1/2 inches thick under the wheel and this allows the axle to pass through the brake arm and hence into the swinging arm. If you are using the MG stand, when you remove the wheel the suspension is already extended as far as it will go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 If you remove the axle, the bevel box drops lower & further back relative to the s/a (bevel box is supported by UJ & brake torque arm, s/a is supported by suspension). You can put a strap around brake torque arm to pull bevel box into place (bevel box/shaft should be supported while axle is out cos otherwise it weights UJ), or lift bevel box into alignment by hand. . When replacing the wheel, get the (greased) axle in thru the s/a & bevel box, & protruding just enough inside the drive hub to mount the spacer which goes there (I grease spacer to hold it in place). Then you can pull the wheel onto the drive splines. I do it from the right holding wheel by two spokes. You have to jiggle it a little to align splines. I use MG stand on Scura & have to put front wheel in first otherwise I have to compress suspension to allow front axle alignment, as rear sits on ground. Rear suspension is, I think, longer than on LeMans. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 thank you all.......thank you KB...... I had removed the axle completely in the rear, and the bevel box had extended away from the axle along the drive shaft....... I've supported the box by reinserting the axle partways, and the bevel box realigned with the axle by just pushing it back towards the front of the bike. I had thought it was not aligning because the suspension had released. *should* be smooth sailing from here. Pretty pathetic performance so far from me, although everything looks strange the first time you do it, I guess............... Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 everything looks strange the first time you do it... Dan, Don't forget spacer inside hub centre when putting rear wheel back in. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 Dan, you're doing it and learning. Good on ya' Don't sell yourself short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brian Robson Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 It gets so much easier every time you do it. Take the opportunity to lube the three drive nipples when you have the wheel off and put some grease on the needle roller bearing at the outside of the bevel box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 OK! All finished! I cleaned and regreased the spindles, put fresh (heavy) grease on the drive gear on the wheel and light spray grease all around the splines in the drive shaft. All looked well. KB, I held the spacer in place with some grease while reinstalling, a cupla bangs of the rubber mallet and it all went on pretty well With new brake pads in place, bolted it all up nice and tight and took it for a spin . Yee hah! Brake pads have really nice feel, much more responsive to the lever than the stock stuff. Can't tell much about the new Avon rubber yet, certainly turns in a lot quicker, but that may just feel that way because they're not as squared off as my Bridgestones were But about these Avons..............the rear wheel needed about 4 (!) ounces of weight to balance it, this after trying it at one spot then rotating the tire 180 degrees around the wheel...........my guess is that these tires missed the 'first rank' of QC at Avon and were sold in quantity to the mail order houses. Not blems or second quality of bands ( I think), but it may prove again that you get what you pay for. No big deal, they balanced fine, but I'll be more wary of mail order tires from now on. This pair were purchased, BTW, from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse (www.mawonline.com) ON THE ROAD AGAIN!!! Planning for 5 hours in the saddle tomorrow morning..........oh YEAH!! (don't worry, I'll give the tires 50 miles to run in before thrashing them! ) Thanks to all.....I love this forum! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bruce Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 Good Job!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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