fast-idle lever

[beauchemin]

Is there a way to increase the friction at the lever so that it will stay on? If not, then it's totally useless -- it's easier to hold the throttle than the fast-idle lever.

 

Chris B.

[Guest Fonzarelli]

Change the return spring where the fast idle cable attaches to the trottle body linkage. The spring that the factory supplies is too stiff. I replaced mine with a softer spring, now the fast idle stays where I put it.

[Guest callithrix]

The spring from a pen works perfectly.

[badmotogoozer]

Oooooooo! I know what I'm doing this weekend! A fix to a problem, and I haven't even thought about solving it yet! Thanks guys...

 

Rj

[Steve G.]

After close to 2 yrs of ownership, and cursing the stupid thing, I finally took that spring last week, cut it 25% shorter, and stretched it a bit. Now it fast idles on it's own.

Ciao, Steve G.

[beauchemin]

Thanks Fonzarelli - problem solved. I measured the OEM return spring and it has a wire thickness of .037". I went to a local auto parts place (Lordco) and found a similar length spring (25mm) with a wire thickness of .020" which works perfectly. Steve - the package had 5 springs - so I have some extras if you would like me to mail you one - let me know.

 

Chris B.

[BrianG]

Hey beauchemin........ still got a spare spring?

[Guest ratchethack]

I cut approx. 3 mm off the end of the spring, then "wound" the cut off piece off the cable without stretching the spring. Works 100% perfectly now

[beauchemin]

Shortening the stock spring will actually increase the spring rate. The only advantage to shortening the spring is to reduce the preload. The best solution is a replacement spring with a thinner diameter wire (i.e. lower spring rate).

[Guest Brian Robson]

After the numerous posts on suspension and the consternation that they produce; we are now discussing the preload of the fast-idle lever spring!!

ratchethack has found a solution that works....but it is still wrong?

[beauchemin]

I never said ratchetback was wrong, just that the best solution (IMHO) is to replace the spring with one of the correct rate and length. OK, I realize I'm being picky, but what the hell.

 

Come to think of it, I made a mistake when I said that shortening the spring increases the spring rate -- what I meant to say is that shortening the spring does not decrease the spring rate. The shortened stock spring only SEEMS softer because of the lack of preload.

 

After the numerous posts on suspension and the consternation that they produce; we are now discussing the preload of the fast-idle lever spring!!

ratchethack has found a solution that works....but it is still wrong?

38554[/snapback]

[Guest Brian Robson]

I've just received a fax from Ohlins, and they are producing a fully adjustable, (for rebound and compression) fast idle lever.

BOTT racers can order a remote preload adjuster for the spring.

[Guest ckamin]

...or just swap the garage door spring on the choke assembly with the spring on the seat latch mechanism in the tail. Works perfect and there is no shopping, cutting, bending, or tweaking involved.

[Guest Nogbad]

There was I thinking you were supposed to hold the fast idle thingy on with your thumb while pulling the clutch in and operating the starter and the throttle with the other hand.....

 

Never really seems to need the fast idle for more than about 30 seconds though.

[jimbemotumbo]

I swapped the spring from the seat release with the fast idle spring. Now both work like they were supposed to.