Guest rotorhead Posted November 9, 2004 Posted November 9, 2004 I remember reading somewhere, I think it was Guzzitech or the like, concerning the fitment of fork springs from a Yamaha FZ1 into the tubes of a V11 offering a better ride and was wondering if there is any truth to this or if anyone has experience with this? Is it even worth it? Also, I am finally changing the fork oil im my 2000V11 and am looking for any tips regarding the type/weight/amount of oil to put back in. One more thing, I have the rear wheel off for a tire/brake change and would like to inspect the cush drive. The plate over the top of it is reluctant to come off.....does the bearing need to come out first? Will the plate fir over the splines? Looks close to me but thought I would solicit some advice before I bugger something up. Thanks Keith
Guest callithrix Posted November 9, 2004 Posted November 9, 2004 Don't know about the Fz1 springs but the plate over cush drive is removed by carefully prying it with two sturdy flat head screwdrivers. I presume you've already remove the metal ring around it that is held in place by allen head bolts. There is a gasket underneath the ring; you can reinstall it. This is the prescribed method used in the factory work manual. Place the wheel on flat strong surface. Carefully insert the screwdriver into the space on either side of the plate and lever it off. You will need to exert some force but be judicius in it's application. The first time you remove it, you'll be sure you're doing it wrong. Good luck
Guest WildJackal Posted November 10, 2004 Posted November 10, 2004 I saw that note in Guzzitech ... Yamaha FZ1 1.0 kg springs. I went to Racetech and used their spring calculator. I was concerned that the FZ1 was lighter than the Guzzi so I tried various rider weights .... 220 -250 lbs. I got the same results ... 1.0 kg. I want to do this as well - stiffer springs and 5wt oil. Just waiting for the Guinea Pig.
badmotogoozer Posted November 10, 2004 Posted November 10, 2004 All right. Oink Oink. I've been thinking about this too, time to step up to the plate and be a piggy. I'll look into procuring a set of these springs. IIRC it was Jason? at MI who sourced that originally - sound source. Rj
badmotogoozer Posted November 10, 2004 Posted November 10, 2004 Springs are ordered. Only $109US so one of my cheaper experiments! Does anyone know what the stock spring rate is?? Rj
al_roethlisberger Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 ...I wonder if they are progressive or straight-rate springs? Just curious, as many OEM big-4(non race-rep bikes) manufacturers are progressive as many riders find them to be more road friendly. al
Guest rotorhead Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 OK then try this on.....theres a set of R1 springs on ebay for sale for a buck so I threw my hat in the ring however after looking at spring rate calculations for the FZ1 and the R1 (I kinda assumed they might be the same since I believe they share the same tube but obviously set up for different riding styles) on Racetechs website I see some differences. The descriptions read a little different....under the FZ1 in gives, I assume, coil dia (?) and length and spring rate but under the R1 it gives some slightly different numbers that I'm not clear on. I was trying to at least see if the R1 springs would even fit in the tubes and go from there. I can't really be sure if the R1 springs would be a suitable upgrade from the stock Guzzi springs or even a good sub for the FZ1 springs or not. Racetech also shows a different stock spring rate on the R1 than the fella on ebay says they are.....0.7kg. Any thoughts? Keith
al_roethlisberger Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 Unless something has changed with the newest FZ-1(Fazer1000 in Europe), the FZ-1 has "conventional" forks, while the R1 has "inverted" or USD(upside down) forks, as well as being different diameter, so the springs are probably quite different. Although they share some of the same basic engine foundation, and some components(like the original R1 brakes), the FZ-1 and R1 are vastly different bikes, especially in the area of frame and suspension. So I doubt the springs are alike at all. al
Baldini Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 ...I went to Racetech and used their spring calculator... Could you post a link to Racetech? Thanks, KB
al_roethlisberger Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 Could you post a link to Racetech? Thanks, KB 37092[/snapback] ......ummmmmmmm http://www.racetech.com/
Guest rotorhead Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 Right you are Al, I should have done a smidge more homework on those things doggone it. At best I'll be out a buck plus shipping. I will be interested to see how the Racetech springs work and which spring rate/oil weight/oil quantity is selected by others. Anybody need a set of R1 springs? Keith
Guest vkerrigan Posted November 11, 2004 Posted November 11, 2004 I went with Racetech 1.0 springs (15 mm preload) and 2.5w Motul synthetic fork oil when the front end of my 02 LeMans was redone a year ago. I weigh about 225 w gear and it helped every aspect of front end handling and feel. The only downside was that it highlighted the stock rear shock faults............vk
Janusz Posted November 12, 2004 Posted November 12, 2004 You guys confuse me as to what the fork oil weight is appropriate. When you install heavier springs wouldn't you need a heavier oil instead of lighter? Stock is 10 w oil, right? vkerrigan went all the way down to 2.5w. Why? I would think such a light oil will not allow you to achieve a proper damping. Can somebody explain what would be a proper oil when changing to heavier springs? I have 1.05 springs in my forks from Lindeman in California by the way. They were very inexpensive, NOT progressive (I do not like progressive springs by the way) and I like them a lot.
Guest vkerrigan Posted November 12, 2004 Posted November 12, 2004 Janusz...............I went with the 2.5w fork oil as a recommendation from Ken Zeller @ Evoluzione. It is supposed to be more responsive and have less damping drag. I believe the theory goes that when you increase spring rate, you won't require as much compression damping. At least thats the way its worked for me. Prior to changing springs, I was running compression damping 3/4 out from full CCW. After changing the springs, I only need one click out from full CCW. I do not claim to be an expert in this area.....I can only say what works for me. Although Ken Zellar is no longer doing Guzzi performance work, he is a valuable resource in this area. He's located in Simi Valley, CA and can be reached at (805)306-9705 and his web site is www.evoluzione.net.......................vk
Guest Bruce Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 That makes sense about the heavier springs and the less viscose fluid working together on compression but what about on rebound? It appears that compression damping is controled in one leg and rebound in the other ( Marzocchis here ) has anyone tried different wt oils in the two legs; ie 2.5w in the left and 5w in the right? As far as using springs or settings from another bike it would seem that 'the right setup' is a function of how and where you ride and what trade-offs best suit you. The damping adjusters on my bike don't seem to have much effect which leads me to believe that that I am not even close with the current setup.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now