Guest WildJackal Posted November 22, 2004 Posted November 22, 2004 I changed my front tire today and got as far as balancing the tire. I made a stand using jack stands but the tire wouldn't rotate worth a damn. The bearings wouldn't turn by hand. I pried the seals off and forced some grease in. They turn now but NOT TOO GOOD. I needed to wrap my finger in a rag in order to get enough of a grip. I notice that turning one bearing turns the other as well. I've gone back and read the bearing threads. Seems they are junk. A common problem is a spacer that is too short. My problem seems to be a spacer that is too long and jamming against the bearings. Has anyone seen this problem or have a solution? I also noticed the axle is not a consistantly smooth. At first I thought it was scoring or wear from the bearings but it seems like it was made this way.
Paul Minnaert Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 hammer those bearings out, measure the exact distance from bearing mounting surface to the other, and get the spacer exact this size machined. That when you rotate one is doing the other is ok, is a problem when it isn't:-) Bearings cost next to nothing, and their quality is ok, only not the mounting conditions.
BrianG Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 It's not so critical whether the bearings are fully seated in the wheel, so long as they are snug against the spacer, and close to seated. I seat one, then to finish the second one, I drop the axle through the bearing-spacer-bearing pack and use the proper size drift (socket) to tap the second bearing to where the inner races are snug to the spacer, as aligned by the axle. That leaves no preload on the bearings and allows no axle-nut load on them either. It also avoids the presumption that all bearings are going to be exactly the same.
Guest WildJackal Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 Thanks for the quick replies guys. Have either of you noticed the axle is not perfectly smooth?
Paul Minnaert Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 It also avoids the presumption that all bearings are going to be exactly the same. I think any bearing has inside and outside the same thickness. They are made with other sort of tolerances as brembowheels. as long as the axles isn't realy thinner no problem, as the axle doen's move in the bearing
Guest WildJackal Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 The front wheel bearings are starting to look pretty good. I started on the rear wheel and found a detonated bearing on the right side of the wheel. The race was in pieces and balls were loose. The bearing in the cush drive is shot. Pretty scary to think I was doing 100mph on that wheel! Any tricks to getting these things out? How to you get the first bearing out? Do you try to push the spacer aside so you can get a punch on the inner race? How about the bearing in the cush drive? Oh, the bike is 1 year old, 6000 miles.
jrt Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 WildJackal, this sounds very much like your spacer is not long enough. There were several threads on this a year or so ago: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3605&hl= http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=813 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1162&hl= (not sure this is all of them, just a few) If you do a search on "hollow front axle" you should get a thread that goes over the front spacer ad infinitum. So Paul's advice is warranted. Measure everything and make up a correct-sized spacer if necessary. J
Guest Brian Robson Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 To get the bearings out, buy a piece of steel pipe that will fit inside of the spacer (about 10-12 inches long). Cut three lengthwise slots in the pipe at one end (about 3-4 inches long), then gently flare out the end. Insert the other end through the bearing you need to remove until the flared end passes through the bearing (the pipe will initially compress and then flare open as it passes through the bearing). Hit the other end with a hammer and the bearing will fall out. Repeat for the other side
Guest WildJackal Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 Thanks, jrt. I have been reading the past posts. Looking at the picture in the following post, the spacer isn't a straight tube, so making one isn't trivial. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1326&hl= Does anyone have the part numbers for the rear wheel bearings. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find that nugget of information.
Guest Brian Robson Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 Both bearings are the same.,..92 20 42 20. Don't get a new spacer, simply add a 1mm thick washer with the same internal diameter as the spacer (01 63 40 00)
Guest WildJackal Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 Thanks Brian. 1mm spacer, that's a bit easier . I found the generic pn number for the rear bearing on GuzziTech ..... 6204. Still looking for the the bearing in the diff.
Paul Minnaert Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 the part number is always written on the bearing, once you have them out. Just visit a local bearing shop
Baldini Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 ...the spacer isn't a straight tube, so making one isn't trivial.... I just used a straight piece of tube for bearing spacer, chamfered inside edges. Far as I know collars on either end are just to locate spacer in the hub so axle goes in easier. It's a bit more fiddly to fit axle now, but a lot easier to push old bearings out! Brian, that's a great tool you describe does it work easy as it sounds? Never heard that way before. KB
Baldini Posted November 23, 2004 Posted November 23, 2004 37781[/snapback] Trouble with young people today - no imagination ... KB
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