Guest rrbasso Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Took off my valve covers for my 6000 mi service and I found thick whipcream bild up in side my valve covers ! I guess my 3 mi comute to work everyday is not enouph to get the motor hot enouph ? whate do you think ?
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 I think you're right Only 3 miles get a bicycle, it prolly takes longer to get your gear on than it would to pedal your ass to work
twhitaker Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Try nesting a trouble light under the pan. Maybe that will keep the insides warm enough to prevent condensation from building up.
jrt Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Or perhaps use an oil-pan heater? Although usually those are magnetic, so I don't know what it would stick to. A better solution is just to take a longer route to work (through wonderful scenic Alameda? LOL) J
Guest rrbasso Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 I think the whipcram bild up, helps keep the valve noise down ?
RacerX Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Took off my valve covers for my 6000 mi service and I found thick whipcream bild up in side my valve covers ! I guess my 3 mi comute to work everyday is not enouph to get the motor hot enouph ? whate do you think? Or better known as "frothing"... a little to do with temperature yes, but mostly related to the oil. I've seen many oil types (mainly with wet clutch additives), that will do this, regardless of temperature. Had one type spew it out the vent (coated the back of the bike) after many hours in the triple digits, temperature and speed both. My $.02, ToddGuzziTech.com
pete roper Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Or better known as "frothing"... a little to do with temperature yes, but mostly related to the oil. I've seen many oil types (mainly with wet clutch additives), that will do this, regardless of temperature. Had one type spew it out the vent (coated the back of the bike) after many hours in the triple digits, temperature and speed both. My $.02, ToddGuzziTech.com 39858[/snapback] Todd, I've heard of this but never directly experiened it. I certainly used to have problems with mayonaising with Castrol engine oils in the UK and there it was very definitely related to moisture build up, both from the water produced in combustion getting past the rings and valves but also due to condensation build up due to heat cycling and in the case of a 3 mile ride to work I'd say that condensation will be a significant problem. It's exacerbated by the V11's not having rocker breathers but I always thought them pretty useless anyway If you don't want to use a pushbike to get to work, (although that would seem a sensible solution and it'll help keep you fit!!!!) but a Honda step-thru, a C70 or C90 these are a hoot, they handle so badly and have tyres made of bakelite so you can two wheel drift 'em around roundabouts and use the pegs like Rossi uses his knees . They also cost nothing to run and you're unlikely to get speeding tickets, (Unless you happen to have radar set up half way down a well greased mineshaft near where you live?). Pete
Guest rrbasso Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 Well first of all i do ride my bicle to work quite often but I love my Guzzz even if its only for 3 mi, I am running a SYN3 oil from HD, it seems like a good SYN, I also like it beckous I get it free at work, but I may try a redline and see if the whipcream keeps up .
twhitaker Posted December 30, 2004 Posted December 30, 2004 I am running a SYN3 oil from HD39865[/snapback]
Guest Brian Robson Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 In the colder months, cover the oil cooler with a plastic or aluminium plate.
Skeeve Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 Took off my valve covers for my 6000 mi service and I found thick whipcream bild up in side my valve covers ! I guess my 3 mi comute to work everyday is not enouph to get the motor hot enouph ? whate do you think ? 39843[/snapback] Definitely! As TX Redneck sed: buy a pushbike & pedal your butt in! I wish I still lived 3mi from work; saved a fortune in gas & parking costs! Lunch was cheaper too; bike home, make a P-nut butter sandwich, watch some MTV [back when it was good], bike back to work. Funny, I was a lot slimmer back then, too! Failing that, cover your oil-cooler w/ your bandanna [you have one of those, right?], and start the bike prior to putting on your gear so that it can be warming up on the sidestand while you're getting ready. Engine'll last a lot longer too; air-cooled engines hate being driven before they're fully-warmed [kinda like women that way... ] Off to work wit'cha!
Guest Brian Robson Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 Failing that, cover your oil-cooler w/ your bandanna [you have one of those, right?], and start the bike prior to putting on your gear so that it can be warming up on the sidestand while you're getting ready. Engine'll last a lot longer too; air-cooled engines hate being driven before they're fully-warmed. 39911[/snapback] I think that the debate of when to ride a bike away first thing is like an oil or tyre thread. I've always started the bike and as soon as I can rode away (within 30seconds). Is your experience with sidestand idling and waiting longer from your own experience or based on some research? I'm not being facetious, but curious if there is a better way.
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 I'm not being facetious, but curious if there is a better way. 39915[/snapback] Yes there is, he could run back & forth to work and still have time for lunch http://gprime.net/video.php/savedfromdinner
Guest Jeff Kelland Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 First let me qualify myself by saying that the reason I know some of this stuff is because I am old! In the days before computers did our designing and machining, CAD,CAM, and CNC, parts were machined by men. They used lathes and mills with hand wheels. They made parts from materials that by todays standards would be considered nearly useless. The real problem was one of accurate dimentions. Hard to get the hole exactly round and exactly 3 inches in diameter. Hard to get the piston exactly round (which we know today is wrong anyway) and exactly 2.995 inches so it will go in the hole with .005 clearance so it won't stick. Add to this the fact that when it heats up the piston gets bigger than we allowed for and the hole doesn't get as big as we designed it to and that cast iron cylinder won't shed enough heat and our 60's rider's BSA out on the highway comes to a screaching halt 'cause it all melted down. The answer was to allow more clearance to keep this from happening. This means that when the engine is cold, those pistons are wobbling around in the bores and so are a lot of other parts in there. When parts bang together, they slap the protective oil film out of place, bad news. The answer to this is more viscosity. 50w oil, or 70w when its real hot out. This stuff won't flow when its cold, literally! Anyone caring to challenge this should refer to page 14 of Steven Wrights outstanding book American Racer 1940-1980, the photo on the top of the page graphically illustrates the collision of cold and 40w oil. The good news is things are much better today. Well designed parts stay much closer to their tolerances because we know more about materials and what shapes they should start out with. We can make the tolerances closer as a result. Multi viscosity oils 10-30w etc, are also a huge help. Water cooled engines, with much better heat control can be made pretty tight. Air cooled engines need a little more room, but not like 20 years ago. All that said, I start and run my air cooled twins right away in warm weather, giving a few miles of low loads to allow it all to warm up. In cold weather, I let it warm up for a few minutes before setting off. Page 14 left an impression on me!
Guest davidb Posted December 31, 2004 Posted December 31, 2004 Let it idle for 5 minites, then take the long way to work. HD oil? thats for poser bikes that don't move out of the drive way.
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