valves

[Guest davidb]

Does anyone know where to purchase valves and guides for the V11 sport? I do not want to use oem. I couldnt find a application chart for Manley valves.

[twhitaker]

Send your heads to Mike Rich. They'll be glad you did.

[rossoct]

David,

Try Mike Rich Motorsports he's got lots of hi performance goodies(hi comp pistons,valves,guides, cams, ---etc.)Oh by the way he does great head work just ask John T.

[JuhaV]

Hello,

 

For the valve guides one option is K-lining them : K-Line at Cylinder Head Shop

 

I think that these "inserts" are rather widely used both in car engines as well as motorcycle engines.

 

Anyone having guzzi experience about these ?

 

I am considering to try these out myself in my Sport.

 

br, JuhaV

[pete roper]

Hello,

 

For the valve guides one option is K-lining them : K-Line at Cylinder Head Shop

 

I think that these "inserts" are rather widely used both in car engines as well as motorcycle engines.

 

Anyone having guzzi experience about these ?

 

I am considering to try these out myself in my Sport.

 

br, JuhaV

39988[/snapback]

 

I regularly use K-lines in guides. Our race bike runs K-lines. because of the scrolled nature of the liner it actually retains oil better than the parent material and generally they last better than new guides. Replacing guides is always a PITA and oversize guides become less efficient at dumping heat. As long as the original guides are still firm in the head I'd ALWAYS go with K-lining over re-guiding. It also keeps the valves concentric with the seats so less material has to be removed to get a good seal with the newly re-cut valves.

 

Pete

[Guest davidb]

thanks, I will go with the inserts too. they have held up good in my car engines. I was hoping to find all the parts and install/ machine them myself since I have access to equipment at work. I really don't like to "send" components out to shops even though they are experianced and often do better work. When I say "I" built it, I want it to be just that.

[pete roper]

thanks, I will go with the inserts too. they have held up good in my car engines. I was hoping to find all the parts and install/ machine them myself since I have access to equipment at work. I really don't like to "send" components out to shops even though they are experianced and often do better work. When I say "I" built it, I want it to be just that.

40004[/snapback]

 

Me neither, the thing is it costs >$1500 to set up for K-lining and about the same to set up with a decent set of Neway valve seat cutters and valve cutting tools, for a business as small as mine it's simply not viable. I have a very competent machine shop I trust implicitly to do my valve work and the only real problems I've had have been with the horrible chalky alloy of really early heads tending to let new seat inserts drop so I always peen 'em in.

 

Pete

[Guest davidb]

when I was a mechanic for the city of stockton CA, I would heat the head up in a oven to 350F degrees for 3 hours while the valve seats were in dry ice. I can't remember for sure but I think the seats were 2-3 thou over sized. they would almost drop in the head without too much force. Of course this was on 7042 cubic inch waukesha enginators burning sewage gas to make electricity. But the MG is just about as crude!! I guess I will have to send my heads off next summer. I should have 10000 miles on it by then. this way I can be sure that there will be enough guide left to ream for the inserts.

[JuhaV]

Thanks Pete,

 

It seems that K-lining is the way to go. The benefits seem to be logical and the material is better than the material of the original guzzi guides. Luckily there are many mechanical shops even here in Finland to provide that service so no need to ship the heads abroad.

 

Because the heads and valves are now in the focus, the next question is what to do with the rocker arms that have slight marks on the sliding surfaces contacting the ends of the valve stems.

 

My preliminary approach was just to carefully restory them by grinding with fine emery paper to get a fresh smooth surface. Then I found this picture :

 

 

Does anyone know if these are commercially available somewhere ? It looks nice even though a bit heavier than the original.

 

Good Start for the Year 2005 for all of you !

 

- JuhaV

[PEPPERONI BROS.]

Thanks Pete,

 

It seems that K-lining is the way to go. The benefits seem to be logical and the material is better than the material of the original guzzi guides. Luckily there are many mechanical shops even here in Finland to provide that service so no need to ship the heads abroad.

 

Because the heads and valves are now in the focus, the next question is what to do with the rocker arms that have slight marks on the sliding surfaces contacting the ends of the valve stems.

 

My preliminary approach was just to carefully restory them by grinding with fine emery paper to get a fresh smooth surface. Then I found this picture :

 

 

Does anyone know if these are commercially available somewhere ? It looks nice even though a bit heavier than the original.

 

Good Start for the Year 2005 for all of you !

 

- JuhaV

40037[/snapback]

Hey Happy New Hair, You'all! I believe those rocker arms are available from MG Cycle in cheese filled Wisconsin As for valves and valve train components, I'd reccomend checking out Kibblewhite Precision Machineing in Pacifica, California. They supply high quality components to Mike Rich and other vintage builders! I met one of their reps out at Bonneville and was quite impressed. Have fun, Tom

[jrt]

The roller-spacers are available from MGCycle, I doubt the rockers are. I inquired about this a while back and I was told that the roller-rockers were prone to breaking.

Jason

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

^^ I believe Racer X was beta testing a set