BrianG Posted January 21, 2005 Author Posted January 21, 2005 I think I am the only person running a reverse shift pattern. I had to make a some small parts to make it work. I should have a chance to post some pics this weekend. I did a quick writeup ages ago and emailed it to someone.... Do they still have it??? 41527[/snapback] That'd be great! I don't really see why the flip of the belcrank isn't going to work, but I'd love to see your version!
jrt Posted January 21, 2005 Posted January 21, 2005 There he goes again....you crazy Canadians and your...words...and....stuff
BrianG Posted January 21, 2005 Author Posted January 21, 2005 Hey... we borrowed a lot of them from y'all down there!! Ooops.... youse guys ain't from sout' o' da Mason-Dixon Line in Iowa, eh?
jrt Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 Not the last time I checked...but I was raised in Texas, so I'm bilingual- English and Southern.
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 You should have heard me when I was married to a girl from Kentucky! I'd meet someone and say "How y'all doin, eh?".
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 I'm waiting for the MGS to show up and if it has a GP shift pattern then I am converting all my bikes to that set up as well. My Laverda SFC is right side and reversible as well so i could get really confused if I don't standardize!
Steve G. Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 Don't be too worried about shift patterns. Keying in to each bikes different guages clicks it in for me. Old Smiths guages, and it's the right shift, shift down to shift up gears. No Problem!. Ciao, Steve G.
BrianG Posted January 22, 2005 Author Posted January 22, 2005 Didn't work for me. Could switch sides from the Norton to the Honda but couldn't seem to switch patterns. Hot through a highway cloverleaf in third gear, hard over and rolling on the throttle, through 8000 RPM, and neatly snick into .......... second........... SUCKS!!! Turned out WAY easier to switch the 900RR to GP pattern than reverse the Norton. The '86 Lemans was a piece o' cake too. I'm a'feared that I'm just a GP kinda guy!
BrianG Posted January 23, 2005 Author Posted January 23, 2005 OK.... one more legitimate question....... I am looking at the pair of keys that came with the bike. They have plastic heads with what seems to be a circle with a vertical bar inside, for markings. also, there is a plastic semi-circular arc with that same marking embossed on it, preceeding the word ZADI. There are 4 words embossed at the ends of the arc, each saying "cut" in the particular language. Suspended below the arc is a recxtangle with ZADI on one side and a 4 numeral number on the other. Are these original keys? What's the arc thing? Is the number the key-code?
O2 V11 Posted January 23, 2005 Posted January 23, 2005 What you have are the original keys, the number on the small rectangle on the reverse of ZADI is the serial number of your key. Rob
BrianG Posted January 24, 2005 Author Posted January 24, 2005 Completed the Out of Province Safety Inspection, and the RIV Compliance Inspection today........... more questions! Clattering noise at idle.... sounds like a big end bearing...... goes away when clutch lever is pulled..... Is this NORMAL?? Manual says 0.002 valve lash on both sides for "American Specs". Rest of world is 0.004/0.006. Now that the bike is free of y'all.... can I set it to these more intelligent lash settings? Is the electric fuel solenoid a frequent source of fuel leak? Is the throttle butterfly shaft a common source for fuel drips? Got to 2 of the grease zerks on the drive shaft, but not the front cross zerk. Is there a trick or is this a disassembly issue? Why would the PO have drilled 4 1-1/4 holes in the airbox lid? Is that retarded battery placement correct?? What terrific workmanship....... mostly!!
O2 V11 Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...8&hl=grease+gun Brian, try this link for a solution to the driveshaft problem. My clutch rattles when in gear and the clutch is pulled in. When stopped at lights or whatever I just click it into neutral, no noise that way. There's a lot of happy owners out there who opened up their valve clearances to the world specs and found their bikes idled a lot stronger as a result. The PO would have drilled the holes to let the motor breathe a lot more. Some prefer to do this rather than fit the aftermarket lidless air filters. Retaining the lid on the airbox reduces the induction noise. I guess the battery's position is standard, my brake fluid reservoir is so close to my battery that it's not funny. Rob
gallo_se Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 -25! you mean celsius or fahreneit? If they are celsius, some questions come to my mind: what kind of engine oil do you use to work at tohse very low temperatures? gasoline, brake oil clutch oil, the grease on the joint , oes not they just freeze at these temperatures?
BrianG Posted January 24, 2005 Author Posted January 24, 2005 gallo... VERY funny!! We use the Celcius temperature scale up here.... much like the rest of the world! 0 C = freezing and -40 C = -40 F .... 100 C = boiling. It has been -40 C/F for weeks at a time this winter. Car oil is 5- W40 synthetic. The motorcycle has 20W-50 but only runs in the heated garage. The Michelin Pilot Road tires were not available with studs! As for brakes and other hydraulics..... all our stuff is cable-actuated becasue it's so cold.!!
callison Posted January 25, 2005 Posted January 25, 2005 I head somewhere that you have to use synthetic air up there in your tires because the natural stuff freezes...
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