BrianG Posted February 7, 2005 Posted February 7, 2005 Yup, setting the oil-pressure circuit does nothing...... still a 2 second pump run-time.
callison Posted February 27, 2005 Author Posted February 27, 2005 Almost got the FrankenSport back together today. Can't find the exhaust crossover. Something that large, and it eludes me. Oh well. I did find one VERY interesting thing. My ECU fuse blows because the ground is missing. Yep. There is a ground wire as part of the wiring harness for the ECU and I didn't have it hooked up. So now it's where it belongs, the ECU fuse should never blow again and I'll never know - damnit - unitl I find that stupid crossover. Mutter, mutter, mutter...
jimbemotumbo Posted February 28, 2005 Posted February 28, 2005 Can't find the exhaust crossover. Something that large, and it eludes me. 44552[/snapback] I have an extra stock x-over if you want it.
luhbo Posted February 28, 2005 Posted February 28, 2005 ...My ECU fuse blows because the ground is missing. Yep. There is a ground wire as part of the wiring harness for the ECU and I didn't have it hooked up. ...44552[/snapback] I wish you that this was the reason. I had the ECU open. As the diagramm also shows there should be a ground connection via pins 23 and 24 over the harness. (The PCB imho seems to be separated into two ground blocks, one connected to 23/24, the other one separated but connected to the first block via the internal screws and the housing) Have you checked wether the housing and the battery minus is connected even without the separate cabel? Hubert
callison Posted February 28, 2005 Author Posted February 28, 2005 Well, I found the cross-over (in the shed, under the tank...) and the bike is back together (again) and running. Weather permitting, a test ride is next. As for the missing ground wire... well, this bike had been down to the frame and completely disassembled for nearly a year before being put back together. The ground wire for the regulator got folded up and hidden with a bunch of other wires up under the steering head. Maybe it was a good thing (NOT) that the transmission had to be removed again, as that gave me a chance/need to remove stuff at the front of the bike that just so happened to reveal the errant ground wire. The same trasnmission removal process gave me a chance to try out the correct center stand. It almost worked too! Unfortunately, it was an interference fit with the stock crossover so I removed it. First observation was that it (the centerstand) was too short. On the stand, both wheels were in firm contact with the garage floor. Not a useful configuration under most conditions and definitely not desired when parked some areas where the stand would fail to support properly. So near and yet so far... Now if I could just find a source for the wiring connector to the instrument panel, I could resume the quest to mount an early Dayona fairing on the beast.
callison Posted March 1, 2005 Author Posted March 1, 2005 First test ride after the second transmission install. Oil everywhere! Mutter, mutter, mutter... Looks to be the timing case cover at the top. Not too bad if that's the case, but I'm getting very tired of cleaning off oil under the tank and all over the engine.
DeBenGuzzi Posted March 2, 2005 Posted March 2, 2005 My advice get it running best it can, Sell it! and buy the griso, I think that bike looks sweet if they ever ship it to the US that is. That'll fix all your problems! altho sometimes fixing something is more fun than using it. I know I throughly enjoy breaking my RC cars and then fixing them but I still mutter about it.
robbiekb Posted March 2, 2005 Posted March 2, 2005 Hey Carl, we'll definitely take that v65c off yor hands to make some space. can you send us some pics ?
callison Posted March 20, 2005 Author Posted March 20, 2005 I wish you that this was the reason. I had the ECU open. As the diagramm also shows there should be a ground connection via pins 23 and 24 over the harness. (The PCB imho seems to be separated into two ground blocks, one connected to 23/24, the other one separated but connected to the first block via the internal screws and the housing)Have you checked wether the housing and the battery minus is connected even without the separate cabel? Hubert 44697[/snapback] I'm going to have to take a look Hubert. The ECU still blows the fuse. The particular conditions are: 1. Any time I whack the throttle open above 5000 rpm. 2. Any time the engine cutout rpm is reached. Even if approached very slowly. Must be the damn ECU. And of course, it's impossible not to whack the throttle on these bikes. Too much fun...
Guest Nogbad Posted March 21, 2005 Posted March 21, 2005 I'm going to have to take a look Hubert. The ECU still blows the fuse. The particular conditions are: 1. Any time I whack the throttle open above 5000 rpm. 2. Any time the engine cutout rpm is reached. Even if approached very slowly. Must be the damn ECU. And of course, it's impossible not to whack the throttle on these bikes. Too much fun... 46644[/snapback] You could try these people and see if they do bike ECU's. Don't see why not, and the 24 month warranty on the repair looks pretty good! ECU Repairs
luhbo Posted March 22, 2005 Posted March 22, 2005 I'm going to have to take a look Hubert. The ECU still blows the fuse. The particular conditions are: 1. Any time I whack the throttle open above 5000 rpm. 2. Any time the engine cutout rpm is reached. Even if approached very slowly. Must be the damn ECU. And of course, it's impossible not to whack the throttle on these bikes. Too much fun... 46644[/snapback] Carl, have you already changed the relais? If you don't have new ones at hand, then just switch those that are used actually, means 2 with 1 or an other one. I think you see my point. I would try this first. Hubert
callison Posted March 22, 2005 Author Posted March 22, 2005 Carl, have you already changed the relais? If you don't have new ones at hand, then just switch those that are used actually, means 2 with 1 or an other one. I think you see my point. I would try this first. Hubert 46744[/snapback] If it ever stops raining, I'm going to try swapping relays. Kind of hard to see where they would be rpm sensitive, but in this game, you never know. I will also be trying the Cliff Jeffries computer too.
dlaing Posted March 22, 2005 Posted March 22, 2005 The particular conditions are: 1. Any time I whack the throttle open above 5000 rpm. 2. Any time the engine cutout rpm is reached. Even if approached very slowly. Must be the damn ECU. And of course, it's impossible not to whack the throttle on these bikes. Too much fun... 46644[/snapback] I would test the high RPM voltage output. It should be 14.1-14.6 Volts. If not, there is your problem, or the way your luck is running, one less of your problems....
luhbo Posted March 22, 2005 Posted March 22, 2005 If it ever stops raining, I'm going to try swapping relays. Kind of hard to see where they would be rpm sensitive, but in this game, you never know. I will also be trying the Cliff Jeffries computer too. 46752[/snapback] I am also not sure, why they should be so. But at me they look way more suspicious than the ECU does. I'm not really sure, but in my mind something takes shape that I once heard someone talking about a similar problem with blown fuses and guilty relais. Personally I only had a blown fuse once, the one for the starter solenoid. That's nearly the same. Lights were off, the solenoid has its own relais, why should the fuse fail? I think I let the starter knob go for a short moment, and this short interuption killed the fuse. Must have been the jumping relais. Besides, I am still waiting for the rain. All this salt still lays around everywhere... Hubert
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