GuzzTim Posted January 29, 2005 Posted January 29, 2005 I dumped my V11 in a gravel parking lot last summer at about 10mph.. A few scratches etc, but nothing major. Two days ago I was backing it out of the garage and noticed that the left fork was hitting the steering damper at full lock. Upon inspection it seems that the right hand "nub" on the lower triple clamp was indented a little bit and this is causing the steering to go past where it should stop, and in my case is actually rubbing the left front of the fuel tank. I talked about it with my dealer and he's seen this quite often. Apparently one of the cheap fixes is to put a little tire weight on the "nub".. the alternative is to get a welder to put a spot of weld on the nub to build it back up. Just posting this as I know a few of us have had a recent mishap and its worth checking your lower triple clamp steering lock thingamabob... Cheers, Tim
dlaing Posted January 29, 2005 Posted January 29, 2005 I put a hose clamp and a piece of hose on the steering damper rod so that it stops the forks from hitting the tank. Someday, I will look to having the nub welded. Along time ago, I think people posted that their brand new bikes' forks hit the tank!?!? I dropped mine.
callison Posted January 29, 2005 Posted January 29, 2005 The tank can also shift to one side or the other a tad just from the clumps of wiring under the front of the tank so if you've had the tank off to futz with wiring, that can do it as well. My forks hit the tank too, but I have a frame from an earlier model (96 Sport) and it's not the same. I wound up using JB Weld to adhere a flat washer to the face of the stop. That worked. Ideally, the stop should never (as in accident) have to actually stop the fork movement energetically, so the washer will probably stay on there indefinitely.
Mike Stewart Posted January 30, 2005 Posted January 30, 2005 Well Tim, If you got the time, I got the welder Looks like just the headlamp and brackets need to be removed inorder to get to the steering stop. Mike
edge Posted January 30, 2005 Posted January 30, 2005 my 2 cents ; If your talking about 2 steering stop "nubs" that are cast into the lower triple tree, I would drop the whole head assembly to get good access to the nubs for a weld build-up, clean-up and paint.. Of course the thing is some kind of AL alloy with a powder coat type finish so it's got to done right. I think your operating too close to the pretty stuff i.e. tank, fenders, fairings, etc. to do this on the bike. I'm sure it can be done, but I don't think you would be happy if anything got buggered up and I'm sure who ever is doing the weld would like the freedom to manuever. I went through this drill last summer, my stops were knotched and bent from a drop. I ended up getting a new lower TT (~300 US ) for peace of mind and cosmetics Maybe it was over kill but I got to spend a couple of days of quality time with the goose going through the the whole front end
GuzzTim Posted January 30, 2005 Author Posted January 30, 2005 Hey Mike.. where ya been? last I heard you'd driven cross country for a jackel that you were going to turbo charge or something??? Anyway, thanks very much for the kind offer. I'll PM you offline.. Edge, I know what you mean about quality time... That's why I keep my goose clean, more for the inspection than the appearance. Cheers,
Mike Stewart Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 Tim, This is what the Jackal looks like now And now you guys know what I have been doing with my spare time. Mike Hey Mike.. where ya been? last I heard you'd driven cross country for a jackel that you were going to turbo charge or something??? Anyway, thanks very much for the kind offer. I'll PM you offline.. Edge, I know what you mean about quality time... That's why I keep my goose clean, more for the inspection than the appearance. Cheers, 42168[/snapback]
GuzzTim Posted February 2, 2005 Author Posted February 2, 2005 Diabolical !!!!!! so when's the first road test? looking great Mike, but where's the NOx ? Cheers, Tim
Mike Stewart Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 It will be about another month till she gets on the road. I still have alot of little things to figure out. What I have learned about the Tonti framed bikes is that no matter what year you may have, many parts are interchangeable. This 2000 Jackal now has a 1991 fuel tank from a 1000S, a Bub exhaust system from a 1978 Lemans 1, Agonstini Lemans 1 rearsets, Lemans 1 lower frame rails, V7 side stand. The only problem area is the rear brake master cylinder which has an adaptor plate to mount the larger newer master cylinder. I will have to relocate the mastercylinder or go to an early style master cylinder and hope the bore size will work with the later rear brake caliper. Oh yeah, I need to make a battery box to relocate it under the bike for a lower center of gravity. Mike Diabolical !!!!!! so when's the first road test? looking great Mike, but where's the NOx ? Cheers, Tim 42382[/snapback]
Baldini Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 ...hope the bore size will work with the later rear brake caliper... Mike, This may be of interest: http://morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1242 Bike looks great. Should be a lovely ride. Let us know how it turns out. Be interested to hear more. KB
callison Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 Paul has one for a Sport at http://guzzi.daytona-it.com/ under Parts & bike sale.
Mike Stewart Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 Thanks KB, I completely forgot that the early bikes also had linked brakes , So now I need to figure another solution. Mike Mike, This may be of interest: http://morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1242 Bike looks great. Should be a lovely ride. Let us know how it turns out. Be interested to hear more. KB 42406[/snapback]
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