air box

[Guest fifi93]

hello,

it is possible to replace on V11 Lemans 04 the air box , with this modification the engine has it a good output?

thanks

[Admin Jaap]

This is a good place to start: Air intake FAQ

[DeBenGuzzi]

God I just took out my airbox yesterday for K&N pods it sounds nice and looks awesome but they sure didn't make it easy to get that tank off. Or back on for that matter. Then some Fuel meter was in the way and I had to hack apart the original tubes for an extender It went from going "Man this look easy" to "what the hell did I get myself into" but at least I saved about $400 the dealership told me it would cost. I asked if that came with vasoline. But good luck with your airbox. -its fun

 

[jrt]

I asked if that came with vasoline.

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[JuhaV]

 

 

Hi,

 

I also consider going for the pods because of the somewhat "lighter" look of the bike. And easier access of the rear shock adjustments.

 

Does anyone know whick K&N pods could be attached to these plastic "trumpets" that are part of the original air box ? I would like to retain these in order to have nice and smooth tunnel for the air to be sucked in.

 

Mine is a Sport 1100, but I suppose V11 dimensions are about the same.

 

br, JuhaV

[jrt]

 

Does anyone know whick K&N pods could be attached to these plastic "trumpets" that are part of the original air box ? I would like to retain these in order to have nice and smooth tunnel for the air to be sucked in.

 

Mine is a Sport 1100, but I suppose V11 dimensions are about the same.

 

br, JuhaV

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RU-0600, I think. That's the big, cylindrical K&N. There are tapered K&N's as well. I think the critical thing is the inside diameter.

K&N product page

 

Some people mount directly on the throttle body, others don't. I haven't seen definitive evidence that one way is better than the other.

If you mount onto the velocity stacks, you have to cut off the flare. That's the downside to that approach.

Jason

[JuhaV]

If you mount onto the velocity stacks, you have to cut off the flare.  That's the downside to that approach.

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Thanks Jason,

 

I speculated that I could squeeze that wider flare part inside the pod and get the pod tightened to that straight part behind the flare. Those stacks are quite soft material so this might be viable. But as you say, if there is no evidence to receive any benefits from this, it is easier to mount the pods directly to the injector bodies.

 

br, JuhaV

[Baldini]

RU-0600, I think.  That's the big, cylindrical K&N. ...

 

I have oval K&N's on the Tonti - suit the available space better but don't know if that shape is available for spines??? I saw pic of Jaap's pods - they look v small?

 

KB

[JuhaV]

I went through the earlier threads dealing in quite detail this issue and found out that Al has these pods RU-1780.

 

These seem to have an integrated flange tube so there is no need to destroy those original plastic airbox tubes. I will check these out.

 

br, JuhaV

[DeBenGuzzi]

what about the malossi red sponge filters does anyone know anything about those?

[Skeeve]

what about the malossi red sponge filters does anyone know anything about those?

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Well, if we had a list of the relevant K&N filters [ie, pertinent dimensions enumerated: length, width, profile, diameter of the sleeve/flange for fitting, etc.] then we would try to match them up to their better performing UNI filter counterparts.

[jrt]

Well, if we had a list of the relevant K&N filters [ie, pertinent dimensions enumerated: length, width, profile, diameter of the sleeve/flange for fitting, etc.] then we would try to match them up to their better performing UNI filter counterparts.

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In what way? I'm seriously not trying to start an oil thread here- just curious. More air flow or better filtration? The K&N's I am using now are pretty free-flowing.

 

 

JuhaV, the flange one's just might work. The inlet diameter is small, so measure the throttle body. The other thing to consider is that there is no support for the filter and I don't know how well the angle on the flange will work. Will they run into the spine frame? The pods directly on the end of the velocity stacks rub on the frame and are a tight, but acceptible fit.

I really can't make a judgement call on whether to have a velocity stack- conventional wisdom is that it's important (this going all the way back to loopframes), but Jaap and several others report no ill effects from mounting directly on the throttle bodies.

Jason

[DeBenGuzzi]

IS it just me or could you not mount them directly to the throttle body unless they are angled? because things were in the way on both sides of the tank. With my 00' Sport the K&N pod didn't fit I had to cut the intake tube and mount them to that for clearance. I'm not very mechanicaly inclined but one side looks like some kind of fuel sensor and the other is like a drain/bleeder? for all I know.

[al_roethlisberger]

The K&Ns I use, that are documented in the FAQ, have "built in" runners .... sorta. And are angled to tuck the filters in close to the frame, which is a good thing as they are fairly large cylinders. I would guess that they almost double the intake area of the stock filter.

 

There might be a bit of turbulence introduced where the edge of throttle body slides into the filter throat, and introduces a small abrupt step up of 3-4mm(decrease in diameter) when going into the TB.... so maybe reinserting the OEM plastic stack inside even my K&N's throat might smooth things up here .... to what degree of benefit, I have no idea though.

 

 

BTW, another option to reinstalling the extra OEM rubber clamp and "velocity stack" to reduce turbulence, would be to radius the edge of the TB itself where the aftermarket filter is often clamped, to reduce/smooth this abrupt step. Being aluminum, this could be easily done with a dremel, taking the appropriate care not to send metal shavings into the TB of course

 

Again, I don't know if this would offer much benefit, but

 

al

[Skeeve]

WRT UNI filters:

In what way?  I'm seriously not trying to start an oil thread here- just curious.  More air flow or better filtration?  The K&N's I am using now are pretty free-flowing.

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K&N's are very free-flowing because they don't filter the microscopic dust that actually eats an engine very well. You want your engine to last? Paper filters work best, but of course have a real problem with "packing" and degraded performance. K&N's [or other identical screen&oiled cotton gauze filters] flow very well & catch the big bits of dirt that spell instant doom for an engine. UNIs or similar oiled-foam filters flow almost as well as the K&N derivatives, filter virtually the same as paper elements, and don't suffer the packing problem to the same degree as paper [ie, their performance is sustained like the K&N type.]

 

I'm not bad-mouthing K&Ns: if you're after all-out performance with a nod to real-world conditions [ie, want some filtration in lieu of running open velocity stacks], then they're the way to go. On a street machine that you want to last longer than K&N's 100k mile warranty, then oiled-foam filters are a better choice.

 

Since most non-Guzzi, non-BMW & non-Harley motorcycles are at the breakers' before that 100k mile benchmark [with the exception of some G'wings, VFRs & at least one VTR1000], then I'd expect the Guzzisti to be more in favor of making their motors last...

 

If you're determined to run K&Ns and live anywhere that you encounter any minor amount of dust on a regular basis [esp. anywhere in the southwestern U.S!], you need to be using the ventilated-polyester overcoat "prechargers" that even K&N admits their filters must have to effectively block any amount of fine dust. Personally, I'm certain that these things work as electrostatic separators, since they'd pretty much shut down the intake if the holes in them were small enough to block the dust [ie, they'd get clogged just like a paper element.] Given their synthetic fabric composition, I suspect that the air flowing thru/across them creates a substantial static charge, and hence traps a lot of the fine mica & similar silicate dust like a magnet does iron filings. But that's just my theory based upon how my polyester clothes crackle & stick to me in dry weather...

 

Come to think of it, I've been toying with the idea of getting one of the units they sell to replace the top of an ATV airbox and using it on my LeMans; even with the paper element, it would have superior flow to the un-opened cover but better longevity than running topless. Hmmmm...