2004 Guzzi go over

[txrider]

I bought this bike 1/22/04 used, with 3368 miles on it and as is my usual practice on new or used bikes brought it home, put it on the lift and began a general go-over on lubrication, cleanup and dealing with any bugs, leaks, squeaks, etc.

The bike is easy to work on, built in sort of old world craftmanship way with lots of welds and round tubing.

I decided to check first hand into the screeching upon clutch lever lever release problem I described a couple of weeks ago so have the rear tire, swingarm off and am about to remove the rear under frame bracing to get at the slave cylinder. Also there is an oil leak in the area of the back side of the transmission which I haven't isolated yet which could be lube overfill by previous owner.

I didn't like the original battery positioning so have dropped the tray with bushings and brackets and turned the battery around for better access for charging. Had to build some cables to do that but it should work better with improved access and no issues with battery contacting frame, rear brake fluid reservoir or seat.

On lubrication of parts I've found splines well lubed, axle only partly lubed resulting in rust seizure to the swingarm, and both shock bolts dry of any lubrication.

On miscelleaneous other bits, looks like the assembler didn't like to use washers or if they did use them put them under bolt heads instead of usual nut side. Puzzling.

All in all, I'm glad to be spending the time to get to know this bike and dealing with some details I believe will insure long reliable service.

One question- Although I have a MG service manual, there is little fastener torque info listed. Anyone know of a better source of detail fastener torque info for these late model bikes?

[Guest ratchethack]

Txrider, Contratulations on your purchase! You've likely just made one of your best (if not your all-time best) moto-decisions

 

I've always done the same as it appears you're doing with any "new used" machine. Sounds like you get similar peace of mind from properly sorting things out. IMHO, this is absolutely the best way to get familiar with your bike. You can torque down anything that's come loose and use threadlocker while you're going thru it. Gives you a proper appreciation for both the design and at the same time an understanding of the quirky lack of proper assembly here & there .

 

Don't know of any late-model fastener torque spec charts. I've also asked for this without any joy, but there are some charts out there for the older spine frames that can at least be partially helpful. Check GuzziTech.com.

 

FYI - it's not necessary to remove either the swingarm - and AFAIK any of the later-model frame bracing either - to get the clutch slave cylinder out. I just took a measurement on my bike. There's 5 cm (~2 in.) of clearance between the back of the slave cyl. and the swingarm. Providing it's the same on your '04, it simply comes straight back and out after removing the 3 retaining screws.

 

While you're at it, since you're this far into it, I'd highly recommend disassembly of the cush drive for a thorough cleaning and lube of the cush drive collar and cushion blocks. The collar has a nice helical channel machined into it for the purpose of carrying grease, yet comes dry from the factory.

 

My dry cush drive had begun to generate a fair amount of brown grinding powder (aka rust) that had started to work it's way throughout the cush drive by the time I got to it. A thorough cleanup and light greasing will prevent seizure of the cush drive. This will happen gradually over time without lube, but not before the bearing surfaces have been ground wobbly & way out of spec by rust. The bad news is that the 6 (or is it 8?) retaining bolts on the cush drive cover will likely have to be chiseled off like mine did. Inexplicably, Luigi evidently uses some kind of nuclear-powered threadlocker on these. Best have replacement screws on hand. I used stainless socket-head bolts and Locktite blue.

 

And while you're in there (Part II), the stock cush drive is notoriously too "stiff". A long-recommended mod is to drill out each wedge-shaped rubber cushion block with 2 holes (10 and 6 mm at large/small ends) to put more "cush" in it, providing a noticable improvement in driveline smoothness. Some will leave out every other block. I double-drilled mine and re-used them all.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Have fun!

[txrider]

Txrider, Contratulations on your purchase!  You've likely just made one of your best (if not your all-time best) moto-decisions

 

I've always done the same as it appears you're doing with any "new used" machine.  Sounds like you get similar peace of mind from properly sorting things out.  IMHO, this is absolutely the best way to get familiar with your bike.  You can torque down anything that's come loose and use threadlocker while you're going thru it.  Gives you a proper appreciation for both the design and at the same time an understanding of the quirky lack of proper assembly here & there <_ .>

 

Don't know of any late-model fastener torque spec charts.  I've also asked for this without any joy, but there are some charts out there for the older spine frames that can at least be partially helpful.  Check GuzziTech.com.

 

FYI - it's not necessary to remove either the swingarm - and AFAIK any of the later-model frame bracing either - to get the clutch slave cylinder out.  I just took a measurement on my bike.  There's 5 cm (~2 in.) of clearance between the back of the slave cyl. and the swingarm.  Providing it's the same on your '04, it simply comes straight back and out after removing the 3 retaining screws.

 

While you're at it, since you're this far into it, I'd highly recommend disassembly of the cush drive for a thorough cleaning and lube of the cush drive collar and cushion blocks.  The collar has a nice helical channel machined into it for the purpose of carrying grease, yet comes dry from the factory.   

 

My dry cush drive had begun to generate a fair amount of brown grinding powder (aka rust) that had started to work it's way throughout the cush drive by the time I got to it.  A thorough cleanup and light greasing will prevent seizure of the cush drive.  This will happen gradually over time without lube, but not before the bearing surfaces have been ground wobbly & way out of spec by rust.  The bad news is that the 6 (or is it 8?) retaining bolts on the cush drive cover will likely have to be chiseled off like mine did.  Inexplicably, Luigi evidently uses some kind of nuclear-powered threadlocker on these.   Best have replacement screws on hand.  I used stainless socket-head bolts and Locktite blue. 

 

And while you're in there (Part II), the stock cush drive is notoriously too "stiff".  A long-recommended mod is to drill out each wedge-shaped rubber cushion block with 2 holes (10 and 6 mm at large/small ends) to put more "cush" in it, providing a noticable improvement in driveline smoothness.  Some will leave out every other block.  I double-drilled mine and re-used them all.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Have fun!

43965[/snapback]

 

Ratchet, thanks for the tips. I'm particularly interested in the cush drive detail. I assume this is in the wheel assembly, behind the pie plate metal cover. Wouldn't have thought there would be anything behind there but rubber wedges, I'll take a look at what you described.

As for the clutch slave removal, there is a diagonal brace about 3/4" inch in the way of the assembly coming straight back for removal. Plus I expect to find a pushrod of some sort behind the slave piston in there which will have to come out for inspection and lube. Obviously I know little of what is in there but hope to find the screech source by removing the push rod. MPH Cycles has advised the noise is likely coming from the intermediate plate and I have the utmost respect for their knowledge. Just hope that maybe this time it might be more simple and easy to fix than that.

[Guest ratchethack]

Txrider, I didn't mean to pass bad info on removing your clutch slave, sorry. The later model bikes after mine have additional frame bracing as you pointed out. I didn't know there was a diagonal blocking removal of the clutch slave.

 

Yeah, the cush drive is inside the wheel hub behind the "pie plate" cover.

 

From what I understand, MPH is a solid resource & will steer you right. I'd follow their recommendation on this, but I don't know what taking out the clutch slave & pushrod will do for you if the problem is related to the intermediate plate, unless you can somehow determine a lack of lube from pulling out the pushrod . I'm a little lost on this one.

 

You're far enough into it after removing the swingarm and frame bracing that removing the trans via "crabbing the frame" isn't too much additional work to allow a thorough clutch inspection (see instructions here and at GuzziTech). Been there & done that, it's pretty straightforward. Let us know what you find re: a cause for the noise. I think there's been at least one other report of this here recently.

 

Bst Rgds.,

 

Ratchethack