stormsedge Posted February 27, 2005 Posted February 27, 2005 Installing EBC HH pads today. Fronts, no problem. Rear, while it looks to me like a crosspin with a tension fit against the anti-rattle spring---thought I'd ask before using any real muscle on it....does the crosspin slide out when pressure is relieved on the anti-rattle spring, or is there another secret? I have the factory manual, which may yet prove useful if I need to start the fireplace. Thanks for the assist. k
Guest Brian Robson Posted February 27, 2005 Posted February 27, 2005 The pin also has a little washer on it and it just taps out easily.
Guest Brian Robson Posted March 5, 2005 Posted March 5, 2005 Try also bevelling the leading edge of the pad. That along with cleaning, correct bearing spacing and using correct pads should mean that the brake functions!! Don't forget the brake lever...if it binds on its bushing it will cause drag. You have to love all of the involvement it takes to make something work Again though, my with the front brake pads....I don't think anything works better and more progressively than the stock pads. I've just ridden 10,000Km on the EBC, and in the cold, they glazed initially until warm and there was a little delay in the wet.
dlaing Posted March 5, 2005 Posted March 5, 2005 If the piston on the rear brake gets dirty it will not retract properly and your pads will wear out prematurely, or worst case scenario, heat up, cause your fluid to boil and lock up your rear end in the middle of a high speed sweeper. I suspect that our bikes when new still have some packing grease or something that attracts dirt like a magnet to the piston. I simply pulled the pads, and I believe the dust cover and cleaned what I could of the piston without popping it out. I used silicone spray. WARNING whatever you do, keep the spray off of the pads and the disks. It is a good idea to clean the disk with brake cleaner after reassembly. After cleaning the rear brake piston, my rear brake has hardly groaned when backing out of the garage. And pad life is now much greater than two tires. The original pads were dangerously low at 10000miles. I replaced at 16000 even though they were less than halfway worn. At 23,000 they had a lot of wear left in them. Another important detail is to ensure that you have adequate freeplay at the rear brake lever. I would recommend at least 5mm.
al_roethlisberger Posted March 5, 2005 Posted March 5, 2005 I concur.... a generous spraying with brake cleaner usually washes tons of black crud out of the caliper once every 6 months or so. This always seems to temporarily cure the brake drag/groan. I just take the caliper off the bike, hang it in a bucket... and go after it with a whole can of cleaner. I guess it is due to the underslung design of the caliper where it collects gunk
antonio carroccio Posted March 5, 2005 Posted March 5, 2005 Installing EBC HH pads today. Fronts, Rear, ...bla... How was the condition of the rear brake? How many km did you ride with it? Cheers, AC
stormsedge Posted March 5, 2005 Author Posted March 5, 2005 Actually, the rear pads were fine, so I tossed the new ones in a drawer for next time. Bike has 7000 miles on it. One of the front pads had worn quite thin, so replaced them and cleaned the calipers. I'd heard a slight "buzz" from left front, which got me to looking. It is still there, even with the new pads, so will have to keep looking. k
richard100t Posted March 6, 2005 Posted March 6, 2005 My front brakes make an odd whining/whirring kind of sound. Is this normal? They sure work like they're supposed to though . Any advice???
txrider Posted March 6, 2005 Posted March 6, 2005 My front brakes make an odd whining/whirring kind of sound. Is this normal? They sure work like they're supposed to though . Any advice??? 45252[/snapback] A tip from one of the more mechanically astute Scots over on the apriliaforum- Extend the caliper pistons before cleaning to get all the gunk out. Some question exists on brake cleaner effects on piston seals, so he uses something similar to Simple Green, diluted. Lastly, another poster has used brake cylinder assembly lube applied to the piston/seal junction to keep pistons free moving and non-sticking. Those guys ride in some pretty crappy conditions and claim this works well.
Mike Stewart Posted March 6, 2005 Posted March 6, 2005 I have the HH pads on my 2000 V11 Sport, and while the fronts work very well with this material , I have found that it works too well in the rear . When riding fast, one must not apply too much pressure to the rear brake, if you do, things get exciting very fast ! I would like to go to a less agressive brake pad material in the rear. Anyone else have the same complaints on the HH pad ? Mike
antonio carroccio Posted March 6, 2005 Posted March 6, 2005 Dunno Mike. I have changed the front last summer. Nou I have the Carbone Lorraine which is VEEEERY good. The rear is still original. I should take a look at the back side too one time...
belfastguzzi Posted March 6, 2005 Posted March 6, 2005 I'd heard a slight "buzz" from left front, which got me to looking. It is still there, even with the new pads, so will have to keep looking. k y front brakes make an odd whining/whirring kind of sound. Is this normal? From new, Ive been perplexed by the 'buzz' that comes from the front brake when the lever is pulled. It sounds like it is operated by electricity rather than hydraulic.
richard100t Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 From new, Ive been perplexed by the 'buzz' that comes from the front brake when the lever is pulled. It sounds like it is operated by electricity rather than hydraulic. 45349[/snapback] Ok as long as its not just me :!: I dont mind the noise...its sort of cool in a mg way Kind of like that rattling noisy clutch when it cold & in nuetral.
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