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Posted

:race:

BTW a 2valve engine can put up to 120Bhp on the wheel with the right boring i.e.

What can be done, isn't the same what you can sell as a street bike.When you pay enough to get 120 hp from a 2V, you are nice to it. So why doesn't your sport 1100 have 120 HP? When you sell a bike as a factory, it should not brake if it's abused. That's what's tested in Mandello, and other factory's, their testriders abuse bikes more in a month than we do in 10 years. That is their problem too with the 4V engine. I did look at the partslist from the MGS, they made a lot of special parts for that bike, also in gearbox and engine, so the first plan has been to make more, otherwise this would heave been a very foolish thing to do. Well, spoken investment-wise. Fact is that Guzzi doesn't have much experience with tuning the 4v engine, that makes it risky to sell one. Dynotec has sold more 1225cc 4v kits than Guzzi will produce MGS01 bikes.

 

I think the mgs buyers get value for money, Guzzi don't get rich from it.

What is not so nice is that I think that spare parts, specialy 4V engineparts are run out of stock in mandello. Especialy the heads.

Not a problem for me, I have a spare engine:-)

 

And since this week a set Dynotec Racing cams in the engine :race:

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Posted

My 1100 doesn't produce 120hp simply because it is not bored to be about 1300ccm, that's simple.More cubics more power.Can a motor handle it? Up to a sertain amount of power yes and concidering all right quality components and work are added.The most difficult I'd say is the COST OF PRODUCTION IF this has to be done in big numbers

 

I think the mgs buyers get value for money

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That's sure 100%.And they'd better be start storing some spare parts too I guess,

 

 

When you sell a bike as a factory, it should not brake if it's abused. That's what's tested in Mandello, and other factory's, their testriders abuse bikes more in a month than we do in 10 years.

46220[/snapback]

 

I know what you mean and that's right. Do I have to tell you how many motors do the Ducati changes( brakes)In a single day abuse for WSB qualifications?

At the other hand they shouldn't be making any motorcycles because to tell you the truth their engines brake every time. ^_^:grin:

Still I know countless of people though with 99x..(you name it) that are using them on regular basis and still are working fine.And Ducati is selling them like crazy (and expencive too). True we abuse the bike much less ,but even a motor

that brakes after a couple of hours (or less-Ducati) in hard race does make it into production.

Besides it is a motor and especially if it is producing big HP is is reasonable to have failures after some conciderable km. None has to expect a tuned engine to last as long as an "untuned"(or with less hp) even with normal street use.That's why I still won't bore mine, and that's why you don't see many Jap. motorcycles with over 100K.km

 

:2c: All I'm saying is that though things arean't "perfect" (or may as well a bit more further away from that) For some way or some reason there are companies that want to keep Guzzi out of racing competition.I know that it may sound a odd but that's the only logical explanations I can conclude plus the Cost of production -research too., don't know what other is it getting out as "excuse" but plain simple I can't believe any other.And all that about a company that has been "baptised" and born in races, what is thee?to stay out and perhaps end up doing cruisers?

 

Anyway be as it may -_- I have my Goose and I'm a happy camper over here.

 

What is not so nice is that I think that spare parts, specialy 4V engineparts are run out of stock in mandello. Especialy the heads.

Not a problem for me, I have a spare engine:-)

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That's also a reason I "stick" on 2valve engines :grin: It's too hard to get out of stock

 

P.S. Paul,that Guzzi you have looks awesome(not my cup of tea but is definatelly a$$ kicking),what hp do you have on it now.?

How about it's steering-handling bahaviour?,Do you have kept the daytona frame, RS or 1000?

:bier:

Posted
P.S. Paul,that Guzzi you have looks awesome(not my cup of tea but is definatelly a$$ kicking),what hp do you have on it now.?

How about it's steering-handling bahaviour?,Do you have kept the daytona frame, RS or 1000?

 

I don't know, hasn't been on a bench, but similar setups from dynotec are 130hp...

It steers much lighter than what you have, that's because of suspension, wheels and headangle. And some other changes. There is almost no part that's not changed. Steeringhead is 66 degree. = 2 degree steeper as standard daytona. If it was psossible to get it legal on the road with a Guzzilla frame, maybe then it was like that, but it's here more difficult and expensive as in germany.

 

My website tells the whole story.

Posted
= 2 degree steeper as standard daytona. If it was psossible to get it legal on the road with a Guzzilla frame, maybe then it was like that, but it's here more difficult and expensive as in germany.

 

The "New" :food: Guzzila is naow being made with EU specs and gets a licence plate.I shot these photos from the lasts year Sept.Daytona Treff (meeting) in Germany. :notworthy:

 

:notworthy::D

That's my Sporty Corsa, :wub::bier:

Actually I don't know how much this can be of a help but there is a European Union dictation, that states If a viechle gets specs and licence in one country of EU then it can be registered on another too (without having to pass tests if these are already done in the other country)Now this is good and valid if you buy a custom bike i.e. from lets say U.K. and bring it to another country.Have not done it yet my self (since I only got a normal factory model)

Check here for more (try vehicle directives)

E.U. Info

....just a moment.... :nerd:....I think this is it

Vechicle Type Approoval

There are also at other languages at the top right corner

 

But still I have not understood ,you don't have a licence plate for that Guzzi?.

 

Anyway a friend of mine in Germany that collects Bikes had also an overworked RS motor from dynotec (pretty much stock look) but many changes though, for "bashing in Hockenheimring producing about the same HP you say.Though it gets more I recon in other stage or so.

 

Now he's bashing on a Duc.999s and has the RS at the garage also got one like mine after seing "her" :lol:

 

I was thinking to make some minor changes in mine, like redusing a bit the trail of the bike , but i'm not sure if that will affect the stability??? of the :race: especially if I meet a bumpy turn on the street while I am traveling.Twin spark is a second option, but I am staying sceptical because boring holes on any motor isn't my cup of tea. :lol:

Posted

I do have a licenseplate on mine, since I bought it new 11 years ago. That's no probelm, the problem comes when trying to get a guzzilla frame on the road here.

 

Changing the head angle doesn't make the bike nervous. The angle stock is so easy that as stated the bikes don't need a steering damper. I had one degree excentric steering bearings on mine for 10 years. Now it's one more. But one degree makes him not nervous. Your heavy front wheel does the steering damping.

Posted
  I had one degree excentric steering bearings on mine for 10 years. Now it's one more. But one degree makes him not nervous. Your heavy front wheel does the steering damping.

 

So in order to chang the front systems angle is required some bearings?

I have seen somethin like these in Ghezzi-Brian site, at the other hand I have checked this daes-mototec site and they give it a a whole kit with triple clamps and cost over 1000Euros. If you could tell me what is enough to do? Does it require only a couple of bearings or is it finnally a complete kit, how much should I expect it to cost and what do you suggest/

 

Since I'm planning for doing someEurope touring this summer I'll try to combine it with making some light mods to my bike.

 

I can't give you any more bit of advice concerning the frame you want to have but the before mentioned,Is it really costy to get a licence , orsimple it can't be done? And btw what's the price of the Guzzila frame>?

 

:bier: ALEX

Posted

I had the bearings from G&B. This is the cheapest option, but isn't advised from dynotec or deas. Ten years ago I paid 100 euro in mandello for the bearings. Now they are at least twice the price. Best thing is to bring the frame to dynotec, they cutoff the steeringhead, and weld it on again in another angle. That sets you back 450 euro's. With that it's advised to change the trail, a change in tripleclamps is needed for that. I do have one from my wp racing forks left, that fits in your situation. Or buy one from dynotec.

Posted

Thanks Paul, thanks for the info.I guess that this is a bit too much to do to my bike.I would be interested to save 1 inch or 2 from the wheelbase but not cutting the frame under any circumstanses at also additional cost.Actually money is not a big problem but the fact that I have to cut the frame and wield it again.At he other hand all things have a cost and I think (at the moment)not to estimate a change like this for this cost.

Thanks once again,I'll have in mind these triple clamps :drink:

Posted

Hi Alex

 

Are you looking to make your bike steer quicker?

 

An easier (and free!) option would be to drop your forks through the yokes- maybe start with 10mm.

 

I know someone who uses his Sporti a lot on the track and he dropped his 20mm and was pleased with the results.

 

May be worth a try!

 

Just a thought

 

Guy :helmet:

Posted
Hi Alex

Are you looking to make your bike steer quicker?

 

An easier (and free!) option would be to drop your forks through the yokes- maybe start with 10mm.

May be worth a try!

Just a thought

 

Thanks, what you say is right.I was also adviced this from Dynotec before some months.That is especially usefull if there is a 160/60 profile.4-10mm is enough,though is a bit different than a shorter wheelbase.

To tell you the truth now that I think is not quite nessesary, but Y'know we all have bees on our cups and thinking all the time to change little bits. :wacko: Finnally the 160/70 is the right choice since that little height at the back of my seat is a difference but I don't get the same grip on touring tyres as on these M1s.

Is not that of a trouble but I will try the yokes sometime it costs nothing importand

:helmet:

I like this forum so far plenty of ideas ^_^

Posted

10mm? can be more, I had 730mm long WP racing forks, where original my bike has 760mm forks. Dynotec puts 730mm long forks in all bikes where they put Ohlins in. But steeper haedangle makes the bike come up a bit, so that compensates. I was focused on wheelbase for a long time, that that had to be shorther, to steer faster. Now I think steering geometry and frontwheel weight is much more important.

Posted

1. I didn't know that, so actually there can be sth like 30mm :o

Seems something like this

 

It isn't mine, I got this from an Italian site somewhere I can't recall

 

2. I know that less(moving) mass on the wheels the more flickable the bike is

What I don't exctly know is hoe this weight affects the grip on the street.?

Butis the tyre grip more or less afected?And what about the stability on ,i.e. a street bump is it a + or - with lighter wheels?

I am not a super sport driving guru :nerd::race::nerd: I just enjoy some sport riding whenever I like doing so ,so sorry If I don't know all these stuff.

Posted

1. this picture is from a modified frame guzzi, they do that in Rome, they cut the frame at the hight of the injectors, then you get this.

2. the lighter the wheel, the easier it can follow bumps in the road. The weight from the wheel itself doesn't keep it to the ground. But the heavier the wheel, the more rotating forces keep it going where is was going, so less following the bumps in greek roads:-).

 

I'm also not a road racer, not fast, but enjoy doing some track time.

Posted

The cheapest and easyest way to get a 1100 sport to steer quicker is remove the steering dampener. Even on its lowest setting it slows things down quiet significantly. Then pull the forks through.

Posted
1

2. the lighter the wheel, the easier it can follow bumps in the road.  The weight from the wheel itself doesn't keep it to the ground. But the heavier the wheel, the more rotating forces keep it going where is was going, so less following the bumps in greek roads:-).

I'm also not  a road racer, not fast, but enjoy doing some track time.

 

Thanks once again Paul (and everyone).Ahhh bumps here are so many it is embaracing.Having traveled most Europe I use my bike here as less as I can.

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