Oil change

[DVH]

Just removed the sump and changed the main filter, Question is ,

 

1 do you use thread lock on the sump bolts on reassembly ?

 

 

2 is the oil level checked when the bike is upright,? and is it with the dipstick screwed fully in or just resting on the threads ?

[belfastguzzi]

1 do you use thread lock on the sump bolts on reassembly ?

 

Use copper grease – anti-seize

 

2 is the oil level checked when the bike is upright,? and is it with the dipstick screwed fully in or just resting on the threads ?

 

Up and screwed in

[DVH]

Thanks on the way out to do it now before I forget

[Guest Nogbad]

Why does everyone remove the whole sump. Isn't it OK to take the access plug out and change the filter that way?

[DVH]

I remove the sump yearly to clean out the pre filter in the bottom and any sludge thats accumalated, I also don't have a lot of faith in the access plate not been damaged if it was used to gain access to the main filter.

I only asked regards levels due to a dealer mentioning that they should have the level checked on the side stand and said i was over filling the sump. And this time i found the sump bolts had been loctited in.

[Guest MotoMessiah]

Why does everyone remove the whole sump. Isn't it OK to take the access plug out and change the filter that way?

45360[/snapback]

 

I believe that's ok as well, though it's harder to get the filter out. Though the nice thing about removing the sump is you can check to see if there's nasty little metal bits in there when it's out.

[twhitaker]

I find on mine the oil level is full on the dipstick when screwed all the way in with the bike level. When it is on the sidestand on level ground the dipstick also reads full with the dipstick NOT screwed in. Check it both ways and draw your own conclusions. You can make your own full mark if you want to do the latter technique.

[callison]

Why does everyone remove the whole sump. Isn't it OK to take the access plug out and change the filter that way?

45360[/snapback]

 

When I use the access port, I invariably cannot get the filter loose. So I remove the sump which isn't much of a chore compared to trying to remove an obstinate filter through that hole. Plus - if you cross thread the port cover, you're looking at some very expensive replacements of machining costs. I have heard of it happening, so anything is possible. Another thing about the port - you can't neccessarily see that you've installed the filter correctly if you're not familiar with filter installations. The Rosso Mandello in Ecuador had that happen and blew the engine when the filter was installed slightly cocked and failed to seat properly as a result.

[tomsp]

Every time I have changed my oil, I always have taken the sump off (like Calison said). Never used any lock tight on the threads putting it all back on. I have had a problem with the filter coming loose however. I always now tighten way down.

[k7qz]

Please allow me to piggyback on a few questions as well while we're on this oil change subject:

 

1) It seems simple enough to simply remove the sump pan at each oil change (easier said than done as I haven't tried it yet!). What is the consensus on how often to replace the sump gasket? Each oil change?

 

2) Is there a published torque value for the oil filter? My BMW manuals have these specs, but I can't seem to find one for my LeMans-

 

Thanks-

 

Mike

[DVH]

For what it costs I automatically change the gasket each time.

 

As for the filter I fill it with oil, lub. the seal and make it hand tight never had a problem with them comming loose.