Rear drive

[Greg Field]

Greg, I think you're right about the inner seal. It can be changed without removing the outer seal? (I don't really want to do that one again also)

 

The leaky certainly seems less with the normal G-5, but it definitely hasn't stopped.

 

I've never had to do this on a V11 rear drive, but it should be similar to the other Guzzi drives. Remove the pinion gear/block from the front. Take off the bolts around the big pltter cover. Remove the cover, along with the ring gear and its hub. Heat the case in the boss around the inner race for the needle bearing. pick up the case with a gloved hand and slam it open side down onto a wood block. That'll usually drive out the bearing race. Then lever out the seal and rteplace with a new one. Drive back in the race. Look at the other race on the ring gear hub. If it's loose, clean everything and red loctite it in place. If it has walked away from the shoulder but is still tight, drive it back in place. Re-assemble the whole works. It should hold the pink stuff fine after that.

[docc]

Sounds like a plan. When pulling out the pinion, is it best to replace the front seal also?

[richard100t]

Sounds like a plan. When pulling out the pinion, is it best to replace the front seal also?

you dont need to pull out the pinion to replace the seal. If you pull the pinion you'll have to know how to re set the crown/pinion. Unless there is a third seal in there that I'm not aware of at the moment! You will need the right bearing puller to get at the smaller seal, but thats the only special tool that I can think of. I was told to never pull the pinion out because it involves several more hours of labor.

Now that I'm remembering the teardown of mine you have to take the crown out, but the guy told me as long as you leave the pinion intact you dont have to set the gears when you put it all back together... I cant remember the term for that at the moment, not enough coffee

[docc]

What kind of puller?

[Josh]

Hey mine looks different than yours... Thats what she said!

 

The pinion seal on mine didn't require removal of the pinion. It slipped inside it's own housing, that bolts to the front of the rear drive housing, it was a simple replacement.

 

You should clean up any surface that mates up with a seal with a Scotch Brite pad or some steel wool. This will clean up the dirt and corrosion that have accumulated on your bike for the last 200,000 miles and give your new seal a chance to do its job.

 

Note: The blue you see is grease that I apply on the crown, splines and axle, this helps prevent corrosion and ease of disassembly.

[richard100t]

What kind of puller?

I dont know if it was a special kind of puller or not. Maybe Pete Roper or one of the other experieced wrenches in here could shed some light on that one. The other thing to do is take it apart, pull the crown off and take it to a machine shop and have them pull the bearing, put the seal in and press the bearing back in. It shouldnt cost very much and you'll have the peace of mind that the bearing wont get damaged from the job.

[gstallons]

What kind of puller?

 

 

Let's do this when snow is on the ground.........

[docc]

 

 

What kind of puller?

Let's do this when snow is on the ground.........

No luxury of waiting for snow. I need to have the Sport ready for a serious sport-tour in four weeks where I show the BMW/KTM/Triumph and Honda guys how the Guzzi can hang . . . Or, no . . . Again, these guys are like going for a little hike in the woods. With Army Rangers.

I wake up in a cold sweat to ,"Your Guzzi breaks down, we're splittin' up your gear!" :ninja:

Then, two weeks later, off to Barber's for the Vintage Festival. Fabulous event and I've thought of taking the (almost) old Honda.

[Greg Field]

What kind of puller?

 

 

Let's do this when snow is on the ground.........

 

No luxury of waiting for snow. I need to have the Sport ready for a serious sport-tour in four weeks where I show the BMW/KTM/Triumph and Honda guys how the Guzzi can hang . . . Or, no . . . Again, these guys are like going for a little hike in the woods. With Army Rangers.

 

I wake up in a cold seat to ,"Your Guzzi breaks down, we're splittin' up your gear!":ninja:

 

Then, two weeks later, off to Barber's for the Vintage Festival. Fabulous event and I've thought of taking the (almost) old Honda.

 

The heat and slam it on a block of wood trick obviates the need for the puller. It may be true that you need not remove the pinion first. Like I said, I've never replace that seal on a V11S-type rear drive. On a normal 5-spees=type drive, it's a 45-minute job, including removal and replacement on the bike.

[richard100t]

If time is running out on you I would highly recomend going the machine shop route. You dont want to get a good way from home and then something goes wrong. Do you have the seals yet? It might not be a bad idea to get a replacement bearing, just for peace of mind. If you bring the rear drive to the shop already disassembled it should cost less than $50 to get the job done. If you have to buy a puller and an arbor press you'll be out more than that. You arent going to get that bearing out or back in without those two things and a torch helps even with that. The seal itself has to be pressed in as its a very tight fit.

 

Just curious....did you try draining the rear drive again and filling with plain gear oil to get all the redline out? It may just save you a lot of trouble. Its a $5 gamble...just sayin...

[docc]

If time is running out on you I would highly recomend going the machine shop route. You dont want to get a good way from home and then something goes wrong. Do you have the seals yet? It might not be a bad idea to get a replacement bearing, just for peace of mind. If you bring the rear drive to the shop already disassembled it should cost less than $50 to get the job done. If you have to buy a puller and an arbor press you'll be out more than that. You arent going to get that bearing out or back in without those two things and a torch helps even with that. The seal itself has to be pressed in as its a very tight fit.

 

Just curious....did you try draining the rear drive again and filling with plain gear oil to get all the redline out? It may just save you a lot of trouble. Its a $5 gamble...just sayin...

 

I did a cold drain and refilled with normal G-5, made a few runs totaling under 200 miles and warm drain and refill with the G-5 80W-90. Not much pink left and the leak seems more of a seep now; definitely slowed it down. I wish I thought it would keep getting better, but I'm afraid that thinking is far too wishful.

 

Parts order tomorrow. The diagram shows a big o-ring. Suppose that ought to be on hand as well?

[richard100t]

If time is running out on you I would highly recomend going the machine shop route. You dont want to get a good way from home and then something goes wrong. Do you have the seals yet? It might not be a bad idea to get a replacement bearing, just for peace of mind. If you bring the rear drive to the shop already disassembled it should cost less than $50 to get the job done. If you have to buy a puller and an arbor press you'll be out more than that. You arent going to get that bearing out or back in without those two things and a torch helps even with that. The seal itself has to be pressed in as its a very tight fit.

 

Just curious....did you try draining the rear drive again and filling with plain gear oil to get all the redline out? It may just save you a lot of trouble. Its a $5 gamble...just sayin...

 

I did a cold drain and refilled with normal G-5, made a few runs totaling under 200 miles and warm drain and refill with the G-5 80W-90. Not much pink left and the leak seems more of a seep now; definitely slowed it down. I wish I thought it would keep getting better, but I'm afraid that thinking is far too wishful.

 

Parts order tomorrow. The diagram shows a big o-ring. Suppose that ought to be on hand as well?

Yeah theres a large o ring thats inside the cover when you unbolt it. It wouldnt hurt to replace it while you're in there, but its probably still good. Did you clean the vent cap at the top of the rear drive? Thats very important to keep it from leaking too. You may think its wishful, but I bet the more you ride your bike the less it will leak now.

[docc]

The first 200 miles after the oil change there was a drip or two. Now, in the second two hundred miles, it only looks splattery, kind of dirty, a little wettish. But no drip.

 

Maybe better enough to observe it for a another couple hundred miles. I have been such a RedLine fan. This is a bit of a disappointment.

[richard100t]

The first 200 miles after the oil change there was a drip or two. Now, in the second two hundred miles, it only looks splattery, kind of dirty, a little wettish. But no drip.

 

Maybe better enough to observe it for a another couple hundred miles. I have been such a RedLine fan. This is a bit of a disappointment.

Yeah I like the redline in the transmission a lot. I dont really know what to say about it going through the seals in the rear drive. Wether the rear seals arent that well designed or the redline is just tooo slippery or some combination of the two I do not know. All I can say is that mine hasnt leaked a drop since I switched to conventional gear oil.

[raz]

I've had my share of problems but I put it down to overfilling and/or venting. The Sporti comes without a vent, almost everybody I know has fitted one. Last year my vent was plugged causing the seals to blow lots of red goo everywhere but they didn't take permanent damage - after fixing the vent it doesn't leak one drop. Possibly because I bought the seals... now they just take up shelf space.

 

Anyway it's almost impossible to fully drain RLSPH even if it's hot. Maybe one should find out a smaller volume for refilling, that ends up at a correct level.