Skeeve Posted April 6, 2005 Posted April 6, 2005 http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm Verrry interesting! No surprise that the paper filters outperformed either the foam or gauze filters on straight filtration, or that either of the alternative materials had lower initial restrictions than the paper units. My only concern with the test procedure is that the basis for terminating the test of "initial restriction + 10in H2O" leads to unfair comparisons between a highly restrictive filter like the AC/Delco & a gauze unit, as the latter's test could end before it reaches the *initial* restriction of the high-efficiency unit. All that aside, what the test really demonstrates is that a combination of a large enough paper filter and good airbox design will be much more effective/safer/cheaper in the long run than a set of oily pods hanging off the intake... :-)
JuhaV Posted April 6, 2005 Posted April 6, 2005 All that aside, what the test really demonstrates is that a combination ofa large enough paper filter and good airbox design will be much more effective/safer/cheaper in the long run than a set of oily pods hanging off the intake... :-) 47995[/snapback] Effective = lets fewer particles through, ok, but also reduces airflow and therefore restricts power. I think that those numerous dyno runs show that open airbox + K&N or those oily pods can give more power in a guzzi if at the same time more fuel is added to keep the AFR correct. Safer = longer engine life. Yes, but in motorcycles if you change your oil every 4000-5000 kms, how big is this effect ? In a diesel truck driven on dirty roads 500000 km this is surely important. How about in a motorcycle driven on good tarmac 50000 kms mostly in reasonable weather ? Cheaper = less money. Yes, but many of us do not count the value of motorcycling in dollars per kilometer It would be cheaper and safer to drive a diesel truck. It is very difficult to estimate what the effect of the air filter properties on engine life really is. I suppose that when driven in normal circumstances on tarmac the use of K&N or corresponding filters is not the limiting factor. In the old days, many bikes did not have any kind of air filter. A grid to prevent stones entering the inlet was all they had. However, I could be wrong here but at least for me, this risk is clearly compensated by those few extra ponies, nice inlet roar and sportier look of the bike br, JuhaV
DeBenGuzzi Posted April 6, 2005 Posted April 6, 2005 Effective = lets fewer particles through, ok, but also reduces airflow and therefore restricts power. I think that those numerous dyno runs show that open airbox + K&N or those oily pods can give more power in a guzzi if at the same time more fuel is added to keep the AFR correct. Safer = longer engine life. Yes, but in motorcycles if you change your oil every 4000-5000 kms, how big is this effect ? In a diesel truck driven on dirty roads 500000 km this is surely important. How about in a motorcycle driven on good tarmac 50000 kms mostly in reasonable weather ? Cheaper = less money. Yes, but many of us do not count the value of motorcycling in dollars per kilometer It would be cheaper and safer to drive a diesel truck. It is very difficult to estimate what the effect of the air filter properties on engine life really is. I suppose that when driven in normal circumstances on tarmac the use of K&N or corresponding filters is not the limiting factor. In the old days, many bikes did not have any kind of air filter. A grid to prevent stones entering the inlet was all they had. However, I could be wrong here but at least for me, this risk is clearly compensated by those few extra ponies, nice inlet roar and sportier look of the bike br, JuhaV 48001[/snapback] Me too. (haha someone's gonna hate me)
Alex-Corsa Posted April 6, 2005 Posted April 6, 2005 Me too. (haha someone's gonna hate me) 48003[/snapback] Truck drivers , diesel engines, I guess this test is about big diesel trucks. And where's the UFI air filters there?Is this somekind of advert? Well they maybe true but all it is is just trying to squeeze steel out os a mosquito. My K&N works fine I just bother to clean it once in a while and that's enough.
DeBenGuzzi Posted April 6, 2005 Posted April 6, 2005 I was just putting that up there like that to annoy dlaing
dlaing Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 I was just putting that up there like that to annoy dlaing 48008[/snapback] I don't get it What did you put up? A picture of a beer after I just ate a bag of Doritos? Now that would annoy me
DeBenGuzzi Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 ah it referres back to your how many to change a light bulb deal. forget it. no one got it. I'm done.
dlaing Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 Oh great! An invitation to get this thread snowballing!!! Here is my Ram Air is the way to go, and anyone who disagrees with me is going too slowly!!!! Furthermore, Uni is the ultimate! Not sure, why I am using the gauss filter
al_roethlisberger Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 Filters are a stupid waste of time.... I mean, how much dust do we ingest on our brief rides to the pub? <_> Open velocity stacks are the only way to go
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 Oh great! An invitation to get this thread snowballing!!! Here is my Ram Air is the way to go, and anyone who disagrees with me is going too slowly!!!! Furthermore, Uni is the ultimate! Not sure, why I am using the gauss filter 48055[/snapback] The MGS has ram air! I watched a show on Speed Channel a few years back that showed paper filters do outperform other filters but only in very low humidity. On the west coast of Canada the humidity is generally very high and under these conditions a paper filter looses up to 35% flow. They also degrade in flow at a greater rate relative to the time used. I have no preference as to which aftermarket filter I use but I will not use paper where I live! P.S. I notice they measured humidity but did not vary it.
Guest Nogbad Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 Ram air eh? If the alternator can be moved into the V of the engine, it would surely be possible to mount a supercharger on the crank end like the old BMW racing bikes......
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 Ram air eh? If the alternator can be moved into the V of the engine, it would surely be possible to mount a supercharger on the crank end like the old BMW racing bikes...... 48083[/snapback] It has been done. There is a link somewhere to some nutters in Germany who do precisely that!
Guest Nogbad Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 It has been done. There is a link somewhere to some nutters in Germany who do precisely that! 48084[/snapback] Vorsprung Durch Technik......
txrider Posted April 7, 2005 Posted April 7, 2005 I'm going to be in the minority on this but after riding Texas farm to market roads for years and seeing the dust collected on bikes that were clean prior to rides I'm opting for piece of mind by sticking to paper filters. I certainly wouldn't begrudge anyone using K & N or gauze type filters for better airflow. However there are some used oil analysis on bobistheoilguy.com that show increased silica amounts in engines that used gauze filters to cause me to stick with paper type. Being an old guy, I don't ride that fast anyway. For more discussion pro and con here is additional discussion- http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...;DaysPrune=1000
Guest davidb Posted April 8, 2005 Posted April 8, 2005 I agree, Ram air is the way to go... (cuz I got it)
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now