dlaing Posted April 8, 2005 Posted April 8, 2005 For more discussion pro and con here is additional discussion- http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...;DaysPrune=1000 48092[/snapback] Hmmm...the goretex® filter media (used in wet vacs) is an interesting idea! I suppose you would need more square surface area so the flow is not restricted, but it is self cleaning and great for wet water riders.
Skeeve Posted April 8, 2005 Author Posted April 8, 2005 The MGS has ram air!...... P.S. I notice they measured humidity but did not vary it. 48081[/snapback] The story as I read it: MGS has a ram-air looking hole in the nose, but it's a blind box that's purely cosmetic: Guzzi apparently decided that running the plumbing & sorting the EFI to support it is too much bother. Are you stating unequivocally that Guzzi got the ram-air sorted for the production versions and the plumbing is there? As far as the humidity goes, the test procedure specifically stated that the humidity is not to vary beyond a certain range, as such variation would affect paper filters' filtration & restriction, & hence, make filters tested on different dates incomparable. Ride on!
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted April 9, 2005 Posted April 9, 2005 The story as I read it: MGS has a ram-air looking hole in the nose, but it's a blind box that's purely cosmetic: Guzzi apparently decided that running the plumbing & sorting the EFI to support it is too much bother. Are you stating unequivocally that Guzzi got the ram-air sorted for the production versions and the plumbing is there? 48206[/snapback] YUP! The hole in the front is the only way air gets to the intakes. The air enters under the nose of the fairing, travels down the spine of the frame and then enters the airbox through the filter from the inside of the filter outwards (backwards?). I cannot say how much ram air effect there is but I presume there must be some!
jimbemotumbo Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 I've used K&Ns forever. I rebuilt 2 mustang cobras after much racing and miles and upon tear down, both engines still showed cylinder hone marks and virtually no wear. This, in dusty Colorado and both engines with high miles. KNs used since new. Yes, the filters let in more dust since they also let in more air, but I think the explanation is that the size of particles that are allowed to pass are small enough to be vaporized in the combustion process. Given regular oil changes and good maintenance this is obviously not a problem. I have yet to see a real scientifi comparison of any sort of filter, one that considers more than simple pass-through and filtering specs of new filters and includes actual engine component wear testing, or longer term filtration (after the filters have been in use a bit).
dlaing Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 I don't know if this is faulty logic, but if you look at the intake side and the exhaust side, it is much dirtier on the exhaust side, and I have to imagine that the carbon is abrasive. So even a little sand getting through the K&N is like a drop in the bucket compared to the abrasiveness of the carbon. But then again the carbon should be all small particles....or maybe not, as carbon build up breaks off I have been fearful that damage can occur. All speculation...
Skeeve Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 I don't know if this is faulty logic, but if you look at the intake side and the exhaust side, it is much dirtier on the exhaust side, and I have to imagine that the carbon is abrasive. So even a little sand getting through the K&N is like a drop in the bucket compared to the abrasiveness of the carbon. 48408[/snapback] Yeah, the logic is faulty, since the carbon isn't all that abrasive. We're talking soot, which is full of Bucky balls & graphite; no diamonds. Dust, otoh, is mostly silicon dioxide, a nifty abrasive used by sandblasters everywhere...
jimbemotumbo Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 Well THAT gets me thinking ... Maybe I'll run open stacks and wait for the cylinders to get bored out by the dust. Pop in bigger pistons and my old K&Ns and I'm scootin around on a 1300cc V11.
jrt Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 If you don't want to wait then you can speed up the process by tossing a handful of sand in the intakes. Added bonus is that it decarbonizes the cylinder.
dlaing Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 If you don't want to wait then you can speed up the process by tossing a handful of sand in the intakes. Added bonus is that it decarbonizes the cylinder. 48659[/snapback] I read on some car forum one thread that got something like 300,000 views because someone sincerely posted that they threw sand in the engine and wondered why it won't start. In an even funnier thread a guy armoralled the bottoms of his tires and totalled his Dad's Mercedes ...maybe it is not so funny...
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 I once tried an old trick of pouring comet cleanser mixed in water down the carb of a truck motor to deglaze the cylinder walls. I learned it from an old timer who claimed it was good for an extra 20,000 miles on a tired engine. It seemed to work because initially it made more power and stopped blowing blue smoke. But after about 50 miles the motor blew up real good - a rod through the side of the block. It seems I neglected to listen to the part where you change the oil immediately so that any of the cleanser that gets past the rings gets flushed out. The old fellow got a big laugh out of this!
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