belfastguzzi Posted April 10, 2005 Posted April 10, 2005 A rear wheel bearing is wrecked (I guess it probably went in the first 1 or 2 thousand miles). It's the one on the bevel box side, not the brake side. I haven't removed the bearings yet. The spacer in the hub is loose between the two bearings. It feels like it's at least 1mm too short, but as the bearing is wrecked I can't really tell what the fit was like. There is a short spacer outside the bearing, about 12.5mm long. 1) Is it the long internal spacer that people have reported as being too short and so causing bearing failure? 2) In the manual diagram, it looks like the internal spacer is not just a simple tube, but it has flanges at the ends. Is that correct. Is the only easy fix to add a washer then? 3) Should the whole hub bearing assembly slide out of the hub? I can't make sense of what the manual says. It's very tight and certainly doesn't want to come out. Presumably people change the bearings with the hub assembly in place? 4) The needle roller bearing at the outside of the bevel box is well rusted. Why is there a drill hole in the bearing sleeve? Would it be good to fill in this hole and so maybe keep water out of the rollers?
DeBenGuzzi Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 They replaced mine at the dealer looked like they just took the tire off and smacked out each bearing then smacked in the new ones. Looked like a peice of cake just have fun getting the rear tire off that didn't look as easy. BTW don't go with Guzzi replacements they are $80 each the better longer lasting(so they say) replacements they got me a mere $15
Guest Brian Robson Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 For me the needle roller bearing is the more expensive concern. I seem to replace them every 40,000Km, as they rust...and I regrease every week if t has rained, but it feels like the grease, water and dirt mix into a paste and eat away the bearing. The replacement bearing now from Guzzi has 2 black seals, on the inner and outer faces, and we'll see if this holds up any better...maybe I'll get 41,000Km from this one
callison Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 I replaced my rear ones at 58,000 miles on my Sport 1100i. One of the front ones only went 47,000 miles though.
Baldini Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 A rear wheel bearing is wrecked...etc Belfast, 1 - Yes, the bearing spacer in the hub on mine was about 1mm too short. 2 - Far as i know the flanges are simply there to locate spacer in hub to aid axle fitting. I cut a piece of tube to correct length & didn't bother with flanges. It is slightly more difficult to fit axle but I figured it would be easier to replace bearings if spacer could be pushed aside. Obviously tube has to be snug fit on axle. If you do this, make sure you put decent bevels on spacer edges to help axle locate. Flanges will press off tube if you want to use them. 3 - No need to remove hub centre. Before fitting I put new bearings in freezer for a while, go in easier. 4 - Dunno Is your bike still under warranty? I got parts on warranty - I think Guzzi know the issue. I have a new Guzzi bearing spacer here. I was going to hang on to it but will send if you're stuck. Only thing is - check measurements as there's no guarantee it'll fit!!! Give us a ring if you want. KB
belfastguzzi Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 Thanks KB. I tried ringing but you're not there. Can someone tell me how to get the first bearing out? I have the inner ring out but can't shift the outer. I don't have a puller. I have tried heat and levering and hammering. Do I just need more brute force, or should it be cut, or what? Presumably the second is easier as it can be knocked out from behind.
big J Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 If you have a dremel type grinder,grind 3 small channels equispaced round the circumference, obviously taking great care not to damage the wheel.Grind to as close to the full depth of the bearing sleeve as you can,then when you punch it out from the other side, it will collapse enough to be removed;fingers crossed. Or get a sledgehammer and a size 10 blowtorch.Is there a Machine Mart in Belfast? They sell blind bearing pullers cheaper than anywhere Ive found and the quality's not bad for the price.
belfastguzzi Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 when you punch it out from the other side, it will collapse enough to be removed;fingers crossed. 48464[/snapback] Hi J The problem is that I can't get at the back side of it.
Baldini Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 Belfast, sorry mate - I am here but i'd left ansafon on cos I'm antisocial & i was watching a video of Jerez - didn't know it was you or i'd've picked up. The bearings can be drifted out. The first one's always a bit of a pig. I have a selection of long bolts,tubes etc that I use (with a big hammer) - gotta find something that'll get a purchase on the bearing inner. You can only get a slight edge so it's a bit tricky. If you wedge the drift at an angle against the other bearing with a piece of wood so's it can't slip sideways you should be able to get a good whack on it. Work it all around. Support the wheel firmly on lumps of wood or something. I didn't heat mine, but I once used towels soaked in boiling water to warm up a hub to get bearings in. I remember someone here I think talked of making a simple tool to get wheel bearings out, it sounded like a good idea but I forget the details, who, where & what...? I'm here now if you wanna chat or I'm in all day tomorrow. Best, KB
big J Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 Sorrry,misread you post.Personally, if I'm replacing wheelbearings I do both at the same time. I've not done mine[yet, tho the way things are going...]. Is it possible to knock out the other side maybe using the spacer tube erm o bviously not, or you'd have done it. Ok, cut the outer diameter like I said, then get a small punch and hit it as if you were trying to rotate the bearing outer round the bore it sits in. Be careful, try to hit at as much of a tangent to the diameter as you can, this will hopefully collapse the ring sufficently for removal,for grinding hardened steel an emery band on a rubber bobbin works good,but its pretty slow. The bearing ring will heat up, let it get good and hot, and when you're finishing the last channel, douse it with cold water,it may crack.It wont take much of a reduction in diameter for it to come out, a few thou will do it. Good luck.
Paul Minnaert Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 I can't remember having much trouble there, a big schrewdriver, big hammer and I was done. No grinding. have the inner ring out but can't shift the outer you mean from right side of the wheel? Becuase if I remember correctly, that is the side to start. If you have that one out, the other bearing should go out with a schrewdriver from right to left.
belfastguzzi Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 The job's a goodun. Well done. V.11 Forum triumphs again. It was easy enough in the end. The trouble was that I started by taking the bearing apart, removing the inner ring. So there was nothing left to hammer against and I tried things such as you suggest BJ. Following KB's advice, (owe you ) I went in from the other end and knocked out the 'good' bearing by catching the edge of the inner ring. It knocks out easy enough. As for the spacer: it is only fractionally short. The hub space is 112.5 mm; the spacer is 112.25; as best as I can measure them.
belfastguzzi Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 I can't remember having much trouble there, a big schrewdriver, big hammer and I was done. No grinding. you mean from right side of the wheel? Becuase if I remember correctly, that is the side to start. If you have that one out, the other bearing should go out with a schrewdriver from right to left. 48478[/snapback] Hi Paul, no, I meant the inside ring of the drive side bearing, leaving only the outside ring of that bearing in the hub. Then you are correct – a big screwdriver in there and knock out the other (brake side) bearing, then turn around and drive out that first inner bearing ring. Hope that makes sense. It'll be so easy next time!
Baldini Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 ...As for the spacer: it is only fractionally short. The hub space is 112.5 mm; the spacer is 112.25; as best as I can measure them. ... Take care to measure exactly the distance between the housing faces in the hub. You can lay a short straight edge across faces on one side & measure to other with Vernier depth gauge. My spacer was about 1mm short. KB
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