Fuel Pump Question

[Guest dopiata]

Does the Guzzi V11 Fuel Pump have a check valve on the outbound side?

What is the voltage to the pump? 12V?

 

I am getting issues with what I think is vapor lock due to the location of the pump. It sits under the frame, inbetween the heads.

 

After installing K&N Pods, it seems to backfire periodically and sputter. I have tried 3 Maps and even pushed up the mid-range to be more rich, but it still persists. I normally ride in the midrange ... but it can occur almost any time ... after some hard riding.

 

I am considering replacing the whole fuel pump, filter, and lines with a much more robust setup. I have talked to AeroMotive on the fuel pump and have talked to Aeroquip on the fuel line setup.

 

AeroMotive --> http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/

Aeroquip --> http://www.aeroquip.com/

 

Thanks

[jrt]

Um, I think I'll let Al, the resident fuel expert, address the fuel pump.

 

But again- this is three times in three days from three different people-popping, backfiring, poor idle when hot can all be caused by valve lash being too tight. Check and set your valves to Euro spec before spending a wad of cash on something that might not help.

J

[al_roethlisberger]

The pump doesn't have a check-valve of any kind *that I know of*, as fuel will happily pour out either end if disconnected. The pump is ~3Bar and 12V. I forget the volume/sec but that is critical too.

 

Here is a thread about the closest replacement I found:

 

Replacement Fuel Pump

 

Someone told me the other day that the MG sourced pump was over $250, so if still available, the Redline sourced unit is at least $100 less.

 

Some related threads:

 

Relocating Fuel Pump

 

2003 Tank Retrofit

 

Vapor Lock and Tank Suck FAQ

 

 

 

... hope that helps.

 

al

[Cliff]

Isn't the vapour lock problem to do with a hot parked bike. A running bike should have enough airflow to keep things in check.

[Guest dopiata]

I have the problem when the air temp gets into the 70's.

 

When I ride in 50-60 weather it is fine.

 

It has to do with the bike being leaner when you put on K&N Pods.

 

I am just going to replace the crap fuel pump and lines with a much better racing style setup.

 

Fuel Pump is $280

100 Micron PreFilter is $90

10 Micron PostFilter is $90

Fuel Lines is about another $200

ThermoTec Wrap is about $70

Fuel Line sheilding hose another $60

 

I am very unhappy with the setup now (stock).

And do not even want to go on a long ride til this is resolved.

I just don't think the bike will work out unless this is fixed.

 

I seen some automobile starter wrap from ThermoTec at my buddies speed shop.

 

I was going to grab it, since it was only $22 (his cost) ... but I would just rather do it right.

 

I have thought of the valves and increasing them to Euro Specs. But the bike does not do it all the time, only when it gets hot out.

 

In the winter I am going to rebuild the head anyway ... and maybe even put in different pistons to remove the pinging during hard acceleration.

 

Thanks

[DeBenGuzzi]

Did you check other sources of problems b4 flying to the fuel pump I thought my Pods were causing my bike to 'pop' and sometimes backfire but both my exhaust clamps were loose after I fixed that I haven't had a pop since. Now with the PCIII and not even a modified map I don't have as much fluttering with the engine braking and its a lot smoother. I get suprised how much some of these bikes can differ yet they are supposed to be the same. I think mine was Built on a monday

[Guest dopiata]

I just checked the clamps, they are fine.

Like I said, it does not occur all the time.

Tonite ... it did not do it at all ... but it is cold out.

Over the weekend, it did it about 20 minutes into the ride.

I try not to go far from the house, on my ride due to it.

 

I will check the valves this weekend.

 

After that ... fuel pump relocation.

[jrt]

I have thought of the valves and increasing them to Euro Specs. But the bike does not do it all the time, only when it gets hot out.

 

Thanks

49742[/snapback]

 

Valves. Just check them.

 

Talk to Al or somebody about head modifications and how much difference they make.

[al_roethlisberger]

I have the problem when the air temp gets into the 70's.

 

When I ride in 50-60 weather it is fine.

 

It has to do with the bike being leaner when you put on K&N Pods.

 

I am just going to replace the crap fuel pump and lines with a much better racing style setup.

 

Fuel Pump is $280

100 Micron PreFilter is $90

10 Micron PostFilter is $90

Fuel Lines is about another $200

ThermoTec Wrap is about $70

Fuel Line sheilding hose another $60

 

I am very unhappy with the setup now (stock).

And do not even want to go on a long ride til this is resolved.

I just don't think the bike will work out unless this is fixed.

 

I seen some automobile starter wrap from ThermoTec at my buddies speed shop.

 

I was going to grab it, since it was only $22 (his cost) ... but I would just rather do it right. 

 

I have thought of the valves and increasing them to Euro Specs. But the bike does not do it all the time, only when it gets hot out.

 

In the winter I am going to rebuild the head anyway ... and maybe even put in different pistons to remove the pinging during hard acceleration.

 

Thanks

49742[/snapback]

 

 

 

....stop the presses

 

 

If you are going to spend this kind of dough on aftermarket parts, shielding, etc... take my advice and just go find a used/salvage 2003+ tank with the in-tank system. You'll have a much cleaner and reliable system, and probably for less than the total of everything you have listed above.

 

Check out my 2003 Tank Retrofit Thread(search 'retrofit') for more info.

 

If one can stand to wait and just put up with the problem for a few months, I bet you can find a used newer tank assembly, get it painted to match, and be done with it.

 

At this point, unless one just doesn't like the newer tanks(no chin pad, etc) I really recommend against wasting the time/money to try to make the external solution "work better" as opposed to getting the whole 2003+ kit that's a drop-in solution.

 

The only issue with the 2003+ tank is that it **MAY NOT FIT** a 00-01 bike such as yours, as the tank is longer by an inch or so at the nose, and those bikes have shorter frames up front. So one would have to consider that.

 

If that's true, then yes, your only option is to try to improve the existing external solution. Before moving everything around though, you might just first try getting the fuel lines as far away from the heat sources as is reasonably possible, and shielding them, as well as shielding the pump. That should only cost about $50 worth of shielding. Get the "starter motor shielding kit" for the pump, as that is a big sheet of the stuff, with strapping included to hold it around the pump housing.

 

Good luck! I feel your pain(see my fuel pump relocation thread) <_>

 

al

[Guest dopiata]

I will go down to my buddies speed shop and get the shield ... and wrap it.

And will reply to see if it worked.

 

Thanks