Nogbad finally inspects his needle race

[Guest Nogbad]

So, here we go.

 

First, I put the bike up on a pair of car chassis stands under the "pork chops" as I was convinced my paddock stand would get in the way of proceedings:

 

 

 

The spindle nut was tight, and the spindle itself was binding in the spacers and the inner needle race. I persuaded it out with a large hammer, and on the other side, a socket big enough to pass the spindle head is supported by a steel block to absorb the shock and prevent the swingarm springing. Don't forget to screw the nut on the spindle end and use a hardwood block between the nut and the hammer.

 

 

 

Once the spindle was out, the caliper could be moved and the wheel extracted. Glad I used the car stands. Clearance is tight and the extra stability and working room was a good thing. You can see the corrosion to the spindle. This was cleaned off and the spindle lightly coated with grease before reassembly. The needle inner race slipped out easily, and although stained a little at the outboard end, showed no sign of wear or pitting. there was no evidence of corrosion except at the extreme outboard, well away from the running surface. The grease within the bearing had started to harden, and had darkened, but there was no sign of rusting. The bearing felt smooth when rotated with a finger.

 

 

 

The bearing was then thoroughly washed out using WD40, dried with a clean lint free rag and further inspected. The inner race was cleaned in white spirit, and proved to be unworn and uncorroded when cleaned.

 

 

 

Finally, the bearing was repacked with fresh LM10 grease and the cleaned inner reinserted.

 

The drive splines had some evidence of grease, but rust had started, and it was evident that fretting corrosion was in progress, wearing the spline. The splines were thorougly cleaned and the rust removed with ACF50 and a plastic dish scourer. The splines were then washed with white spirit and dried. Non bearing surfaces were protected with a smear of LM10 grease.

 

Bearing surfaces, i.e. the spline teeth were coated with an organo-metallic anti-fretting paste, called Seez-Breaker K Lube from Kamco. This is a specialised lubricant for low speed applications subject to vibration and high pressure and contains copper and nickel in a high pressure corrosion resisting grease.

 

 

 

After that, everything was put back and boxed up nice and tight ready for the next ride out.

 

Conclusion:- Glad I did this as the splines needed attention, but the needle bearing was ok, and would have gone on for a good long time before anything untoward was likely to happen. I also know I can quickly strip off the wheel for a new tyre in about 2 weeks time.

 

Guzzichondriacs 0, Nogbad 1

[belfastguzzi]

Amazing - mine is much newer but was rusty and notchy enough to merit a change, although if I didn't have everything else apart and wasn't already changing the other bearings, maybe I would have just cleaned and greased it.

 

There must be something else for you to worry about. Have you checked the spring and ball bearing in the rear footrest swivel joint? It could be rusting horribly!

[Guest Nogbad]

There must be something else for you to worry about.  Have you checked the spring and ball bearing in the rear footrest swivel joint? It could be rusting horribly!

 

50229[/snapback]

 

This bike is a peach. I was more concerned about the fretting to the drive splines. I'm glad about the needle bearing thread because it made me get the wheel out, and I think I caught it in time. Hence the very fancy industrial anti-fret lubricant which should sort it out. The tyre needs a change shortly anyway.

[belfastguzzi]

The tyre needs a change shortly anyway.

50230[/snapback]

Slap some of that anti-fretting on it – should cut down on wear and tear.

[big J]

This bike is a peach. I was more concerned about the fretting to the drive splines. I'm glad about the needle bearing thread because it made me get the wheel out, and I think I caught it in time. Hence the very fancy industrial anti-fret lubricant which should sort it out. The tyre needs a change shortly anyway.

50230[/snapback]

Anti-fret lubricant? Does that mean you don't have to worry about it anymore?

Maybe get you to send me some, I think I'm beginning to suffer from engendered panic from reading this forum. Do you bathe in it or just rub it on?

[jrt]

You could put some grease on the cush drive....I've no doubt that it is dry as a bone. As a bonus, you get to remove the rear wheel again.

[Guest Nogbad]

I think I'm beginning to suffer from engendered panic from reading this forum.

50236[/snapback]

 

The people who post on here own bikes made on Monday morning, Friday afternoon and after Luigi had a row with his wife.

 

Mine was made on a Tuesday, and Luigi had obviously had satisfying sex and a nice breakfast before coming to work and building it.

[Guest Nogbad]

You could put some grease on the cush drive....I've no doubt that it is dry as a bone.  As a bonus, you get to remove the rear wheel again.

50237[/snapback]

 

I plan to do that when the wheel comes out for a tyre. I'm not sending the wheel down to the tyre oik with the spline in place, no way! Anyway I need to get some appropriate grease that's compatible with rubber components. Probably use fluorosilicone or some of the old Girling red brake grease.

[belfastguzzi]

I think I'm beginning to suffer from engendered panic from reading this forum.

50236[/snapback]

I dreamt (had a nightmare) about the thing last night! In my dream the V.11 had a more conventional frame and it was sitting on the ground without its wheels. Someone knocked into it, which caused part of the frame to fall off, due to rust. This let all the pressurised air out of the frame. The air was there because, of course, the Ohlins suspension works by pressurised air that is stored in the frame. Then I woke up, which is a good job as I had no idea how I was going to fix that one.

[Guest Nogbad]

I dreamt (had a nightmare) about the thing last night! In my dream the V.11 had a more conventional frame and it was sitting on the ground without its wheels. Someone knocked into it, which caused part of the frame to fall off, due to rust. This let all the pressurised air out of the frame. The air was there because, of course, the Ohlins suspension works by pressurised air that is stored in the frame. Then I woke up, which is a good job as I had no idea how I was going to fix that one.

50253[/snapback]

 

I think you have an advanced case of guzzichondria!

[big J]

I dreamt (had a nightmare) about the thing last night! In my dream the V.11 had a more conventional frame and it was sitting on the ground without its wheels. Someone knocked into it, which caused part of the frame to fall off, due to rust. This let all the pressurised air out of the frame. The air was there because, of course, the Ohlins suspension works by pressurised air that is stored in the frame. Then I woke up, which is a good job as I had no idea how I was going to fix that one.

50253[/snapback]

 

Aint wacky dreams great! By the way, I cant find an air valve on my frame anywhere and I've looked and looked everywhere, feel rather deflated about it.

[DeBenGuzzi]

Mine was made on a Wednesday no real enthusiasm but nothings gone wrong but a bearing and a fork seal So all in all I think he spent a little more time on it to get through humpday.