guzziownr Posted May 14, 2005 Posted May 14, 2005 Friday after work I took a quick spin up to visit Mr. William Hart. We chatted and he led me on a tour of the neighborhood on his Nero Corsa. I put about 100 miles on the clock in the round trip. Today I persuaded Mr. T. LaNasa to show me the quick way round the Bear Mt. area. Sr. LaNasa put about 50 miles on my bike while I viewed the Sport's red carapice from the drivers seat of Tom's immaculate '93 1000 S. I liked Tom's bike and he liked mine and then we had brunch at the Red Apple. After recovering my bike from Tom we rode a bit more and I began getting used to the handling. It changes direction so much more readily than the Tonti bikes that there is a bit of an adjustment to be made. I also had to consciously unweight the handlebars to tip smoothly into turns as I am more used to a sit-up riding position. With another 150 miles added I returned home and actually used sixth gear en route. (4000 rpm, 70ish mph) Once home I turned my attention to the tank suck problem. I had to burp the tank three times during the course of the day. In the garage I zip-tied vertical what I hope is the fuel tip over valve. I also tightened the sensor on the engine case just in front of the left jug as it was leaking some oil. It was pretty much finger tight from the factory. There was a lot of vibration from the clip ons making my Monster mirrors useless above 25 mph. I have a couple of vibration reducing home remedies but I need to remove the bar ends first. From the picture in the parts book (see below) I assume they are threaded. Any trick to this? Today's cool car sighting was a pack of three Mopars. 1970-ish Road Runners with hood scoops emblazened with "440" decals and racing stripes. Enjoy the ride, David in NYC
Mike Stewart Posted May 14, 2005 Posted May 14, 2005 The vibration could be from the throttle bodys being out of sync. Once adjusted, the vibration is just soothing pulses. With mileage, the bike becomes smoother too. The worst vibrations are usually about 3500 to 4000 rpm. Have fun with your new bike! Mike
stormsedge Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 While you are checking bolts for tightness...check the ones on either side that hold the motor rigid as part of the frame...mine were loose and once tightened, changed the vibration characteristics. k
guzziownr Posted May 15, 2005 Author Posted May 15, 2005 While you are checking bolts for tightness...check the ones on either side that hold the motor rigid as part of the frame...mine were loose and once tightened, changed the vibration characteristics. k Hmm, verrry interesting. What was the torque spec on those frame bolts? Throttle sync A-O.K. A little off at idle, but dead on as the butterflys open. DW
droydx Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Re: your tank suck problem. You might find that the valve was installed backwards from the factory. Vertical or not it won't allow it to pull in air. Mine was like this when I checked it. I removed the valve completely when I chucked the smog stuff. Andy
DeBenGuzzi Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 I know they have aluminum nuts that expand as you screw them from the outside its what I have for my barends you CAN buy the argal MG barends but I don't know what they charge or how heavy they really are.
Murray Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Removing bar ends : Dunno how old your bike is but if they have been in there a while they tend to get a little differential metal corrsion or Gino in the assembly hall was a little ham fisted that day they could be a little tight. Back the screw off most of the way then with an appropiate drift gently tap on the end of the screw till it sits back into the bar. This should dislodge the tapered nut if you are lucky you may be able to simply unwind it the rest of the way if not you will have to pull the screw out so the nut has something to grip on so you can unwind it. Been a relativly new bike shouldn't be too much of a problem. Bit of Lanolin oil or anti sieze on the screw before you put it all back together is not a bad idea one of thos ones you don't remove real often but if you do and it doesn't want to come its a real pain.
stormsedge Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 guzziownr said: Hmm, verrry interesting. What was the torque spec on those frame bolts? DW, you tell me and we'll both know. Locktited them and cranked them back in there...pretty big bolts, used a 3/8" ratchet to prevent overtorque on them...haven't found a good torque chart for this bike, so rely on more than a few years of turning bolts. Funny...the only bolt I've ever sheared was with my torque wrench! If someone has a good torque chart for this bike, I'd love to have it. k
guzziownr Posted May 15, 2005 Author Posted May 15, 2005 "DW, you tell me and we'll both know." My eyes are red from looking at PDF files. It seems that Moto Guzzi no longer trusts us with things like torque charts. I blame NATO. Here is one from the golden era, 1979:
Alex-Corsa Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Now, which is the torgue I should use for the allen screws that hold the Oil sump? The one just totally under the motor. Want to remove it and wash that filter inside , as well will also change oil filter. It is probably writen on the bove catalogue but I don't know the name Thanks
Paul Minnaert Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 no that's non the list so default, 08-1.2 kgm. But don't do it that way, you might break one, don't ask me why I know. When it doesn't leak it's ok.
richard100t Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 I dont know if there is a specific amount of torque for those bolts. I'd say as long as it holds the oil in there you've got it tight enough lol
guzziownr Posted May 15, 2005 Author Posted May 15, 2005 richard100t sez: I dont know if there is a specific amount of torque for those bolts. I'd say as long as it holds the oil in there you've got it tight enough lol You can torque the 6mm to that spec if you are using a beam wrench -- it's not a lot of torque and the clicker wrenches can forget to click
Alex-Corsa Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Thanks for your infos. I just dodn't know about wrench settings for this ones.I asked that because I saw it on the video -video repairs (posted here for download sometime ago)It says add the screws with the required torgue ...or sth like this anyway. Second question would be shoild I also add some "gasket glue to the new gasket when fited in ?? Thanks
belfastguzzi Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Alex-Corsa said: I just dodn't know about wrench settings for this ones.It says add the screws with the required torgue ...or sth like this anyway. Second question would be shoild I also add some "gasket glue to the new gasket when fited in ?? 51734[/snapback] No gasket glue. You could give it a thin wipe of oil if you want to put something on it. Put copper anti-sieze on the bolts when putting them back (some others use loctite) – this will probably mess-up torque wrench accuracy anyway. Just do it by feel with an allen key, or do it carefully, with feel, if using a long-handled ratchet.
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