Guest Moonie Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Went for a ride this morning and noticed the tach no longer works. I took the plastic cover off and checked the terminals ( also repaired the bulb holder which had disintegrated ) everything looks OK. Any ideas ? Two weeks ago, the fuel pump quit which turned out to be a connector under the relay block had come unplugged ( I replaced all the relays with Bosch ones while I was at it. ) If anyone has a solution to my latest problem I'd love to hear it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Went for a ride this morning and noticed the tach no longer works. I took the plastic cover off and checked the terminals ( also repaired the bulb holder which had disintegrated ) everything looks OK. Any ideas ? Two weeks ago, the fuel pump quit which turned out to be a connector under the relay block had come unplugged ( I replaced all the relays with Bosch ones while I was at it. ) If anyone has a solution to my latest problem I'd love to hear it. Thanks 51634[/snapback] Ah, er, this sounds dumb... but, start the engine and then push down firmly on the tach housing. If it jumps to life, than it's just a broken mounting stud. If that's the case I can re-post the instructions on how to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Start your bike, and see that your headlight is working. If it is not, then it is a relay not clicking over, I think #3 relay from the front. The tach, and the headlight, as well as the charging system, are on this relay. If it is not the relay, then I don't know for sure. Ciao, Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Imagine how many problems would never arrise and we could move on to others if they had just gotten the Relays right or had some Japanese guy come over and show them how electronics work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Just change 'em out to newer high quality units like Dan sells, and you can indeed "check that problem from your list". Although it is true it might be a good idea to swap them out every couple/three years just for good measure, but what does that cost, maybe $5? Keep in mind that the "relay problem" is not always with the relays. It has been found that excessive relay "wiggling" and "swapping" can also loosen the sockets such that poor connections can appear as relay problems. So take care to keep them tight and clean as well. al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Al is right, the relays are in a location which are often pressed down on by the seat, and the vibration has a way of compromising the plug connections. Al, this Dan fellow, who is he, and where does he sell these improved relays? Ciao, Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidb Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 There is a few suppliers for the relays posted on this sight. Read the specs and don't buy the ones made in China. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Just change 'em out to newer high quality units like Dan sells, and you can indeed "check that problem from your list". Although it is true it might be a good idea to swap them out every couple/three years just for good measure, but what does that cost, maybe $5? Keep in mind that the "relay problem" is not always with the relays. It has been found that excessive relay "wiggling" and "swapping" can also loosen the sockets such that poor connections can appear as relay problems. So take care to keep them tight and clean as well. al 51664[/snapback] NO well what I mean is - they had them in a better location secured enclosed and non-faulty for the application so you don't even know the bike HAS relays. I mean do current bikes use relays I've never seen the things b4 just fuses but that may be because they are not a common problem. They should have reworked it for the later bikes like they did with the tank suck. I know they use better relays now but they still go out. Just frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Al, this Dan fellow, who is he, and where does he sell these improved relays? Ciao, Steve G. 51681[/snapback] http://www.guzzitech.com/Relays.html Relay Replacements for your new Guzzi. Relays for Late Model Guzzis 1. http://www.dotnet.com/~dprune/relay.htm - Dan Prunske at http://www.dpguzzi.com/ Dan carries the GEI AR4-012-C11. It is a far superior direct plug-in replacement for the Siemens V23073 and V23074, Bosch 0-332-207-307, Radio Shack/Tech America 900-2391 (NLA?) and Tyco A1001-A402 and A1001-A403. Radio Shack's part number # 900-2391 which is a Siemens V23074 to replace the original Guzzi used Siemens V23073. A Bosch 0 332 207 307 will also work, and in fact, is the official Guzzi replacement. Sources for earlier "automotive style" 12 volt relays and holders as used on mid 1980's bikes. 1. www.partsexpress.com They even have a nice double relay holder that I used for headlamp rewiring. One relay to low and one relay to high. - Patrick Hayes 2. Mid-State Auto Parts - (614) 888-3838 - 5388 Byers Cir., W. Columbus, OH They have 12 volt relays from Bosch and holders from Packard Electric - Ed Milich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 There is a few suppliers for the relays posted on this sight. Read the specs and don't buy the ones made in China. 51686[/snapback] I beg to differ. The GEI made in China is the only relay that I have found that could hold up to the abuse that the Starter relay in my bike endures. Your mileage may vary. (If you don't use the flasher or the horn, and the headlight, you might not have a problem) Using Bosch or Tyco or RadioShlock is apparently fine for the other relay sockets. If you modify your headlight to be activated by seperate relays, then I would agree and use the Bosch that Dan used to sell. Or better yet, if you can find a relay that fits our sockets that is rated at 20A across the 87a terminal, let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 Roger what Dave said about the GEI in the START relay socket. Dan (see GuzziTech link Al ref'd above) has tested these extensively & recommends the GEI as THE preferred START relay replacement for Guzzi's. If you ever have any questions about Guzzi relays, Dan's THE man. I have about 10K dead-reliable miles on my GEI. FWIW, I happen to have Tyco relays in the LIGHTS, NEUTRAL, ECU, and EFI sockets. Likewise no problems whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 And if you go with Tyco's get the A1001-A403 as it is the five terminal version. All the sockets can take the five terminal version but only four of the five can take the four terminal version (A1001-A402) Of course the four terminal version works fine, but it reduces your relay swapping options in a pinch. The odd five terminal relay socket is the one for the starter/lights and it will not take the A1001-A402. So, just get the A1001-A403 and a GEI or two for five terminal socket. The Bosch are fine too, for all but the five terminal socket. If you don't want to support China and GEI you could always bypass the relay socket and wire in a larger more robust relay from your evil country of choice. I wonder if Jamaica makes relays... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Moonie Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 It's been a couple weeks now and I'm no closer to a solution. I checked the mounting posts and they are tight, I don't believe it's a relay because everything else is functioning ( plus I replaced all of them with new Bosch relays ) and I ran a second ground wire and that did nothing. Is there a sending unit for the tach? Does anyone know how to troubleshot the tach itself. It looks like my local Guzzi dealer has closed so I'm on my own and running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 It's been a couple weeks now and I'm no closer to a solution. I checked the mounting posts and they are tight, I don't believe it's a relay because everything else is functioning ( plus I replaced all of them with new Bosch relays ) and I ran a second ground wire and that did nothing. Is there a sending unit for the tach? Does anyone know how to troubleshot the tach itself. It looks like my local Guzzi dealer has closed so I'm on my own and running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 53109[/snapback] Saw this Tach on ebay.. Might be worth your trouble shooting. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=50465 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 It's been a couple weeks now and I'm no closer to a solution. I checked the mounting posts and they are tight, I don't believe it's a relay because everything else is functioning ( plus I replaced all of them with new Bosch relays ) and I ran a second ground wire and that did nothing. Is there a sending unit for the tach? Does anyone know how to troubleshot the tach itself. It looks like my local Guzzi dealer has closed so I'm on my own and running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 53109[/snapback] The tach takes its signal from the ECU. There are a couple of connectors in series with the tach on the V11 Sport. One of them may be your problem although the only time I've ever experienced the connectors as a problem was when I was putting the tank back on my Sport 1100i and somehow separated the connector. It could just be a dead tach too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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