doesn't like to run sometimes

[bento]

so i'll take the sport out for a good romp, and then we take a break. here's the problem, sometimes it seems like it's trying to fire, but just won't catch. on both occasions it's been a few minutes after a hot run(due to weather, or highway time). now after this happens, i shut it off for a couple minutes, and it starts fine.

 

what is my problem?

[al_roethlisberger]

I'll lay money is it one of two issues:

 

1) Valve lash too tight

 

2) Vapor Lock

 

 

The former is easy to check/test/fix, the latter not so much so....

 

I'd check your valve lash first, and set it to Raceco or Euro specs, and see if that cures your problem.

 

If it doesn't, check out the "vapor lock" FAQ.

 

 

 

al

[bento]

ty sir. i'll check it out.

[Guest rrbasso]

I go for Valves too tight

[Guest Corsaman]

so i'll take the sport out for a good romp, and then we take a break. here's the problem, sometimes it seems like it's trying to fire, but just won't catch. on both occasions it's been a few minutes after a hot run(due to weather, or highway time). now after this happens, i shut it off for a couple minutes, and it starts fine.

 

what is my problem?

52677[/snapback]

 

I agree with the others, probably valves, have had a similar problem with my bike. But mine was also starting to spit back through the airbox at 2 - 2.5 thousand rpm, I tried allsorts with balance and air bypass screws to try and solve the problem,until a friend suggested valve clearance. So I decided to have a look and discovered that I could not even get a two thousandths of an inch feeler gauge under either inlet or outlet valves. So I have set mine at inlet 6 thou, outlet 8 thou. what a difference this has made to the overall running of the bike. On initial start and warm up after reset it idled 2 - 3 hundred rpm faster than it did before.

[Guest V-Twin-Monster]

Unfortunately I have to much experience with this. The four times my bike died the temp was above 85 and I stopped for less than hour. It first happened last summer when I was riding in Myrtle Beach, S.C. I rode all the way to there (150 miles) cruised around stopped at a local dealer after walking around I went back out to the bike in about 30 minutes. After making it about 20 yards down the road the bike just started to act like the tank was empty. After letting the bike sit for about 45 minutes it started up fine and ran the entire way home. It ran fine for the rest of the year. The next time it happened I rode the bike to work at 6AM and the bike sat in the parking lot until 7PM I made about a mile down the road and the bike died. After getting a ride home and getting the trailer the bike ran fine at home. It is hard to say if the problem is from the engine or just plain heat. I’ve also had two other times this has happened. I’m currently working on making a heat shield for my fuel pump. I’ve also heard, from a Yamaha R1 Rider, that it could be the in the battery. This is due to the poor location of the battery and fuel pump. The battery just under the seat and fuel pump and filter located under just above the engine. After I get my bike back together I will let you know if the heat shield helps. The only other thing I read is to completely re-plumb the fuel lines.

[badmotogoozer]

I was plagued by this problem last summer - too many times I watched my buddies ride off while I sputtered to death. Wait a half hour and fine again.

 

I just installed 12" of fire sleeve (aircraft fuel line heat sheild/fireproofing) over the fuel line from tank to pump. Went for a 9 hour ride into the interior this past weekend with no problems and better mileage (35kms to a tank).

 

My mechanic took some of the extra sleeve I have for use on customer bikes as there are a couple local guys with same problem.

 

I have 4 feet left which cost me $18 per foot (remember this is aircraft stuff, not bike or auto). If anyone wants to try this out I'll send you a foot for $20 shipping to US included. I was going to do all the lines if this didn't work out but so far I think this is solved. Takes half an hour to install, and you can likely do it without removing the tank but it helps to undo the mounting bolt.

 

PM me if interested.

 

cheers,

 

Ryan

[Steve G.]

Hi Ryan,

I'm interested in the remaining stuff if you have any left. I've been plagued by this problem many times now, and I'm almost positive it is heat related, and as you say, the routing of the lines is suspect. One line rests right up against the rear of the left cylinder on my bike.

I basically got a blank stare when I've enquired about this to the dealer in Vancouver, maybe I should have talked to the right person. I think I did talk to the right person at the dealer in the Chilliwack dealer, and he confirmed it is a heat situation. He said wrapping the fuel pump in a heat proof wrapping available to keep heat away [much like the stuff stuck under the fuel tank on the V11] is the least one could do, but this stuff you have sounds like the hot [no pun] ticket, as it is protecting fuel lines that seem a tad vulnerable to me in the first place.

If you've already gotten a confirmed response from someone Ryan, no problem. If not, I'll buy the stuff from you. I'm heading off to Moto GP Sunday morning the 3rd of July. I'll be back July the 11th about 11:00pm. Maybe I could touch bases with you at your convienience after that? Maybe at the BMOC meeting on Thursday the 14th?

Ciao, Steve G.

[badmotogoozer]

Wow. A few takers. Seems to be some interest in this stuff.

 

Steve - the stuff I have is for the larger line, if you want to do your smaller lines you'll want a couple sizes smaller. No problem getting this stuff locally - Now that I have found it (Lindair parts counter at the Van. airport south terminal) I can pick some up any time.

 

I think the only one necessary is the main fuel line. If you get vapor after the pump it will still pump, but not if there is vapor at the inlet.

 

I'm going to go out to get some larger stuff at some point to see if I can wrap it around the fuel pump with a couple hose clamps. If I continue to get interest I'll get more for any who want.

 

cheers,

 

Ryan

[al_roethlisberger]

Lots of info here on my past experiences with this:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=462

 

 

Specifically, see my "fuel pump relocation" thread:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...75&hl=fuel-pump

 

 

al

[Steve G.]

Thanks for the info Ryan, I'll be heading over to Lindair to get both sizes. Thanks!

Ciao, Steve G.

[richard100t]

I'm just curious about this problem. I removed my airbox & went with pods. That opened up a lot of space between the tank & the engine. This in turn also creates more air flow through that area & should keep it cooler. Anyone who has been experiencing this problem may want to try removing the airbox & go with pods to see if that helps. It looks way cool too imo.

[jrt]

Not necessarily Richard. I have pods, and still get vapor lock on a rare occasion.

 

One easy preventitive measure to take is to have a full tank. The recirculation of gasoline disperses the heat to some extent.

[richard100t]

Not necessarily Richard.  I have pods, and still get vapor lock on a rare occasion.

 

One easy preventitive measure to take is to have a full tank.  The recirculation of gasoline disperses the heat to some extent.

55288[/snapback]

I was just wondering if many owners with pods have the vapor lock problem. I've never had it yet myself. If you rarely experience it then maybe the absence of the airbox may keep the area cooler... I'm just guessing though

[Guest Nogbad]

One easy preventitive measure to take is to have a full tank.  The recirculation of gasoline disperses the heat to some extent.

55288[/snapback]

 

I think this is right. The only times I have had vapour lock is when the tank is low. Now I keep it half full at least in hot weather and haven't had the problem again.