Need Power Source

[edge]

I bought heated grips a while back and I am finally getting around to installing them. I'm down to the connecting part and I am looking for a fused switched wire that can drive the grips and not effect headlight, ecu , etc..

 

I am generally pretty good at wiring, splicing, etc. but as I was probing with a multi-meter, I some how blew a 5 amp fuse and made a few relays click. I have no idea how I did it, and I am hoping there is no residual damage beyond the fuse.

 

Before I go any further and do something that is going to get expensive or dead line the bike, I'm going to use a life line and ask the board for some help

 

I have already searched the board for help on this but didn't find anthing that said "use this wire dumb ass!"

[al_roethlisberger]

There really isn't a "spare" power hookup anywhere on the bike, especially one that is switched, although on my LeMans there is a mysterious pair of unused bullet connectors up behind the relays, lashed under/to the seat subframe Maybe you could put a meter on those to see if they are working/switched, but I don't know where they draw from so that would be a concern.

 

 

But, I'd just recommend a clean run from the battery, positive and ground. That's what I did. I simply used one of my old spare micro-relays, and tapped into one of the switched power leads under the fuse block(the last one, which is aux lighting I think) so that the grips(and horn) would have direct power from the battery, but would be "off" with the key.

 

al

 

P.S.

 

If anyone(Carl?) does know where those two mystery bullets draw from/through, if they are hot, and if they are switched... that would be good to know, in general. They were lashed up under the seat subframe, by the tool tray, behind the relays.

[dlaing]

Aren't they the On Board Diagnostics wires???

One option for those of us who have converted from the electic petcock to the manual pet rock, I mean manual petcock, is that it leaves us with a switched pair of wires with a lovely connector. However the lines are not rated for the amps needed, so it would have to be used with a relay and a fused line to the battery. But that should not be a big deal.It uses the 8th fuse, which I believe is empty on later bikes that shipped with the manual petcock.

That fuse slot may also prove useful.

[stormsedge]

Went direct to the battery on mine with a fused link, but admittedly you have to be sure you shut them down when you get off or the battery goes away...that fuel petcock wire is an interesting possibility I hadn't considered...will give that a go next time I have the tank off. For an amatuer electrician- -why would I need a relay? How would it wire in? Can I get a relay block similar to the ones already on the bike and use one of my spares/old relays in it? Thanks. k

[jrt]

Aren't they the On Board Diagnostics wires???

No, the diagnostic connection is a three prong AMP connector. I have the bullet connectors also- no idea what they go to, but someone mentioned that small, poor motorcycle companies sometimes buy 'generic' wire looms. Perhaps this is a leftover connection from a generic setup?

 

For an amatuer electrician-  -why would I need a relay? How would it wire in?

You don't really need a relay for a low draw application. Relays are just remote switches that can carry a higher current. their function is to provide an electrical path that is more direct and not through a toggle switch. To wire one in, you wire battery-->relay-->draw AND wire in battery-->toggle switch-->relay. The toggle switch then activates the relay, which carries the load.

[edge]

Thanks guys,

 

Last night I was thinking this would be too easy, with the bullet connectors right there. I was sure they were aux somthing but I don't get good readings on the multi-meter and I do remember reading on the forum they might be ECU diag connectors... So not wanting things to real expensive real fast, I have left them alone

 

I think I'll hit the fuse block as Al suggested to keep things switched. Either I'll forget to turn them off or some kid will turn them on wondering "what does this do?" and a dead battery on a goose is a bad thing. Especially when you have somewhere to go

 

Q: Al, do I need a realy if I tap the fuse block direct?

[jrt]

OK, I just probed (heh heh, probed) those two 'mystery connectors'. One is a straight ground as far as I can tell. They are fused at position 1, and on turning on the ignition, they provide 12V as long as the pump is powering up, then switch off, so they are wired through the relay as well. Not so good as a source of power goes- must be there for testing purposes?

[John A]

I would use an automatic reset circuit breaker mounted as near the battery as possible with a well insulated lead to it from batt +.The circuit breaker can be gotten at any automotive parts place in any amps that you want.I use the type with a mounting tab and have used this setup for many years and miles with no troubles.

[al_roethlisberger]

Just to be clear, these "unused bullet connectors" to which I am referring are *not* the ECU test connectors up under the ECU. There is an AMP weatherseal connector and two unused bullets under the ECU that are for diagnostics, but these two connectors to which I referred are up in the tail.

 

 

And yes, you could definitely use the electric petcock hookup as your trigger if you don't have the electric petcock anymore, or in the case of my 2002, the connector for the petcock is still in the loom, unused. In fact, the heated grips draw very little power, so you might be able to use that connector "direct", although to get the most of the heated grips, I'd still recommend going straight to the battery and use a switched source like the electric petcock to trigger a relay.

 

al

[Guzzirider]

I have not overcomplicated things with my Oxford heated grips- simply plug them in direct to the battery using the same lead as I do for my Optimate battery tender.

 

No problems whatsoever.

 

Guy

[edge]

Finished wiring the heated grips and ended up running a hot lead to the fuse bus from the battery and used the last spot (as suggested). I didn't realize the aft 15A position was along for the ride Simple wiring with blade connectors. Unfortunatly it is not switched but it is fused. I'll pull fuse and nueter it in the summer to prevent inadvertant acativation of the paw warmers

 

thanks guys

[dlaing]

On a side note, I figured out what the two bullet connectors are that come out of the wiring harnass by the ECU.

They represent item 44 (warning light connector) on Carl's wiring diagram:

http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif

I wonder if one could put a bulb inbetween, just for kicks?!?

And now that I think about it the red line would make a suitable switched relay activator....just don't use the blue line as that does something tricky with the ECU as Jason (JRT) discovered.

If I am reading the diagram correctly, you could have power for your auxillary device as long as the engine is running, but not when the key is on but the engine off. This is even better than a simple wiring to the key switch!!!