Cant get it right

[Guest hogjockey]

Someone help!!!!!!! I bought this bike with 4000 miles on it. The guy that owned knew nothing about the bike but he talked a good race. Heres the deal. When the bike arrived and i first rode it it would idle ok but high around 1800rpm.

 

I rode the bike and from idle to 3000 this bike was rough i mean real roughthen it would hit hard as i got to 3000 and run well to red line.

 

I Pulled the plugs they were sootyblack not wet just black. when i would rev the bike it would smoke black smoke bad.

 

I went ahead and pulled a oil and trans and rear end service. then i started looking fro my rough running problem. In doing so I found the bike was only getting 21 MPG??????

 

Filled the tank again and Yep 21mpg. So at this point I have adjusted the valves

they seem a bit on the tight side. The exhaust were very tight.

 

The Idle screw on the right side was turned way in and the one on the left side was barley turned in. I removed the one on the right side and set the idle from the screw on the left. I dle is now about 11 to 1150 rpm.

 

Could this be a tps problem or a heat sensor problem??? There are no dealers in the state of alabama, and the one closest to me in GA. said they lost there guzzi tech. and cancelled my appointment. Guys I read all the stuff you write about in here do ya have any suggestions

[callison]

With your symptoms, it sounds like a TPS that is remarkably out of bounds. If you have a digital voltmeter and know how to use it, there are a number of people on this forum that will walk you through setting it.

[jrt]

And the next question is do you have a carb synching device like mercury sticks? The throttle bodies need to be in good synch or else the bike will be 'buzzy'. But Carl is right- the first order of business is to check the TPS setting.

[Mike Stewart]

I wanted to do this months ago but never took time to do it. Well here goes more of my Global space.

 

 

 

To check your TPS voltage I do the following.

 

1. Locate the tps sensor on the right side of the throttle body, slide the boot on the connector down to expose the wires. I remove the connector from the tps and then nsert a T pin (even a sewing pin should work) into the rear of the connector (back probing) where the wire comes out of terminal A and also at terminal C. The pin slides down against the connector terminal. This is better than piercing the wire! Also make sure that the ignition switch in the off position!

 

 

2. reconnect the connector to the tps. You must keep the pins seperated, I usually bend them slightly to advoid any contact.

 

 

3. Connect your voltmeter clips to the pins. Negative goes to terminal A and the positive clip to terminal C. If you get it backwards the tps reading will still be correct but will have a - (negative symbol infront of the reading).

 

 

4. Make sure the fast idle lever is turned off. Turn on the ignition switch and read the voltage. Mine reads .466 volts or 466 mv. What should your tps voltage be, I am not sure. Between three of my bikes, they range from .268 to .650 volts. They all run fine

 

 

Good luck,

Mike

[Guest putt-meister]

The service manual states that the TPS reading should be 150mV WITH THE BUTTERFLY FULLY CLOSED (ROD DISCONNECTED AND IDLE SCREW BACKED OUT). The manual I have on the ECU says that the voltage should be between 135 - 165mV with the engine running using the left throttle body to keep it going. This would seem unecessary unless the voltage supplied to the TPS is not regulated by the ECU. Any comments on wether the engine needs to be running?

[dlaing]

I soldered on a pair of test wires on to the wiring harnass up by the ECU...I guess I am scared of needles

Works great! Others on the list have also added test connectors.

But I tried to get the bike to not stall running off the left cylinder and it would just bog down and stall. To test with the engine off, I pulled the lighting fuse so that the battery would maintain good voltage. I still got readings from 210 to 170 mV...it seemed to stabilize around 170 mV after seating the throttle body valve several times. So I was happy with the reading.

I suppose you could hook the bike up to an idling car with jumper cables. but maybe that is not the same.

Will Creedon or Carl Allison wrote the following regarding a V1100Sporti:

"This is where things get a bit tricky: I have found that the TPS output sags 20mV or more in an inconsistent manner when the engine is stopped. It stabilizes at a higher value when the alternator is spinning on my bike. So I set the TPS output to 150 mV with the bike running. But the RH throttle must be completely closed to do this, so basically the bike is running like crap at 1200 rpm on only the left cylinder when I reset the TPS! The throttle linkage is disconnected."

The ECU on our bike may be different, but if our manual says engine on, than do it by the book.

[Mike Stewart]

There is alot of confusion on where the tps should be adjusted to (myself included). I think the trend is about 500mv at idle now.

 

Look at my last question on the subject and you will see the maps all over the board.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5121

 

On my 00 V11S, I went through the pain (time) of disconnecting the throttle linkage and backing out the throttle stop screw and then adjusted the tps to 150mv (0 throttle point) The tps voltage with the idle set is now about (off the top of my head) 268mv.

 

I have not touched my other two bikes and their tps voltages are quite abit higher and run the same or slightly better (to my assonometer). We are talking 466 mv (03 Rosso) and 642mv (Ghezzi-Brian) which is about double the tps voltage of my 00 V11 Sport. I also have the Powercommanders on all of my bikes and they all use a different map. This could be the reason why the bikes all run right.

 

As RacerX tries to get across to PCIII owners, check your tps voltage or know where its at before you get the bike dynoed. This way if the tps voltage gets changed, you will know where to reset it to for that PCIII maping. He also wishes when the maps are made, that the tps voltage would be written down on the comment part of map.

 

I have read Carls tps adjustment and have done it that way also (with the bike running). It just seems weird that on the cars I work on that the tps voltage stays the same, engine running or off. This, to me is because of the 5 volt reference going to the tps. Maybe the Delco electronics are just better than Marelli?

Another thought, is there a difference between the 15m and 16m systems on how the tps should be set up?

 

 

So after all this thinking , I still think where the tps voltage is at idle makes most sense. Just set it to 500mv and go for a ride.

 

Mike

[Paul Minnaert]

I'nm also in the adjusting thing right now, didn't touch it for 10 years, but now I have to. The previous owner of the engine, shorthend the bar that thightly connects the 2 bodies. This because the cilinders are shorthend, so the bodies are a bit more close to each other. That wasn't done well, so adjustment was each time different.

What I see is engine running or not, I still have 0.444 volt on the tps. Full is 4.76 volt.

Above a certain voltage the ecu is assuming full throthle.

[jimbemotumbo]

... from idle to 3000 this bike was rough i mean real rough. then it would hit hard as i got to 3000 and run well to red line.

 

I've had a similar issue lately. Inconsistent surging and bucking at zero to part throttle. Had it sussed with PCIII tuning, but it came back. I then assumed fuel filter and replaced it. Re-set tps exactly by the book. Runs worse and I can barely get it started. Runs great under half or better throttle. Soooooooooo,

 

I got to looking around and found two broken wires hanging just below the petcock. Hmmmmmm?

 

So I plan to wire em back up while waiting for a manual petcock to become available. I'm betting this solves all my problems. You might want to check your wires.

 

Best of luck!

[jimbemotumbo]

You might want to check your wires.

53608[/snapback]

 

Okay, so now it starts beautifully. Give it a bit of throttle and it dies. Lots o throttle and it runs very very well. Just some hesitations mid range, in addition to the off idle stall.

 

Now I suspect an intake leak. One thing leads to another.