Oil Consumption

[belfastguzzi]

I think that the pick-up does sit very close to the bottom of the pan, but we'll see after Nog's experiment. Bet we see a new thread next week: 'My oil lines are blocked with plasticene – is it a warranty repair?'.

 

(BTW Nb, it has not escaped my notice that you keep copying my maintenance programme – one week I'm taking out a needle roller bearing and next, you're at it; then I drop the sump & change oil & filter and next week you're doing the same. Please note that next weekend I'm taking my pistons out to do a cut and shunt modification on them.)

 

BigJ, sorry I omitted to post a photograph of the bottom of the sump pan.

Here it is now: (I sent Fred in to check the clearances)

[dlaing]

Bet we see a new thread next week: 'My oil lines are blocked with plasticene – is it a warranty repair?'.

Nog might put some plastic wrap over the plasticene so it won't get stuck in the pipe.

[Guest Nogbad]

Nog might put some plastic wrap over the plasticene so it won't get stuck in the pipe.

54625[/snapback]

 

I will have to given that plasticene is soluble in hot engine oil! Anyway the investigation is on for tonight. It's a roasting hot day, 30°C forecast for this afternoon, and by the time I get home the bike will have done 50 miles so the oil should be nice and thin. UFI filter and sump gasket arrived from Motomecca yesterday.

 

Anyone know the torque setting for the pan bolts?

 

I'm putting car semi-synthetic in. Reasoning: With a dry clutch it's a car engine, and I'm tight.

[belfastguzzi]

Anyone know the torque setting for the pan bolts?

54636[/snapback]

Haven't you read all the other oil threads?

I'm putting car semi-synthetic in.

54636[/snapback]

Haven't you read all the other oil threads?

 

If you're tight,why are are putting a new gasket in?

[Guest Nogbad]

  Haven't you read all the other oil threads? 

 

I'm lazy. Just tell me again ok. 

 

  Haven't you read all the other oil threads?

 

Yes but a lot of it is junk science and I'm tribologically challenged. 

 

If you're tight,why are are putting a new gasket in?

 

I want the bike to be as tight as I am.

[belfastguzzi]

I want the bike to be as tight as I am. 

54648[/snapback]

Good answer: but still, you're wasting your money and precious time, as I'm sure you know.

[Guest Nogbad]

Good answer: but still, you're wasting your money and precious time, as I'm sure you know.

54653[/snapback]

 

 

Probably. I should keep topping it up and never change it, relying on natural losses and replenishment to maintain oil quality. A guy I knew in the States had a Subaru pickup. It had done 300,000 miles, and he claimed never to have changed the oil or serviced it. Gas and go mate, gas and go.

[belfastguzzi]

never change it, relying on natural losses and replenishment

54655[/snapback]

- that's cars

 

BTW I think that Dave R. in Guzziology says 10,000 miles for oil filter change (and 2,000 for the oil)

[big J]

Poor old Fred,I know how he feels. Yer a rascal,BFG, cant stop chucklin.

[tomsp]

check it level

 

How much oil are you all putting in. I add "about" 3 and 7/8 qts. and have done fine (except of course for that incident when the oil filter became loose!).

[Guest Nogbad]

Nogbad reporting:

 

Well, dropping the sump revealed a can of worms, at least, not a whole can, just the dregs at the bottom:

 

Some frontbottom had stripped the oil drain plug thread, and repaired it using a nutsert. All well and good you may say, except that the nutsert is in on the piss and all the ally tapping swarf was left in there, so the prat didn't even take the sump off to repair it.

 

Luckily the strainer, despite not being seated properly, stopped it getting into the pickup. (I HOPE)

 

The drain plug is a piece of a 17mm AF bolt, shortened roughly with a hacksaw.

 

Anyway, the measurements you wanted were:

 

Distance to the bottom of the pan from the castellations = 2.5mm

Oil depth over the top of the strainer at low dipstick = 12mm

 

OEM UFI filter installed in place of the Champion one that was in there. Oil used was 3.5 litres of Castrol GTD 10W40. Yes I know this is diesel car oil but I am convinced it will be ok.

 

The oil that came out after 4500 miles mostly high speed and no short runs looked ok, not too dirty, so I guess the 6000 mile change out would be ok for me with my kind of use. There was NO EMULSION ANYWHERE. I think the GTD should last well as it is high detergent and good for the high bearing loadings in a diesel engine.

 

You probably think I'm a heretic.

[Guest Gordks]

I'll be even dumber.  Should the oil be checked on the side stand, or standing straight up?  The V11 OM does not stipulate.  Most bikes that have a "sight glass" are held upright.  SHhold the "dip" stick be leaning or upright??

54073[/snapback]

 

Mine is not a V11, but the Breva 750. It is definitely supposed to be vertical when checking the level. When the level is correct in the verticle position it appears far too high when on the sidestand. The dipstick enters from the left side at a downward angle so that makes sense. The Breva is also supposed to be hot when checking the level.

[Guest aironepony]

........and will get the girlfriend to follow me in the car and look and sniff for burning oil.

54598[/snapback]

 

 

Try "scratch and sniff" it's more fun.................

[Martin Barrett]

Oil threads, fantastic, nearly a 100 replies and 1700 reads, and we haven't covered if synthetic or semi or dino makes any difference in losses

 

I think that modern motorcycle oil has stuff to cope with, the "tearing" effect of integral gearboxes. So Nogbad should be okay with his GTD. But I'm not talking from a point of expertise. Next step a Diesal conversion?

[Guest Nogbad]

Next time I change the oil I need to replace the pan with one that hasn't had the drain plug incompetently "nutserted". I would sure like to "nutsert" the culprit, preferably with a large vice.

 

Anyone got a spare standard pan they don't want?