Adjustment Screw

[Guest ratchethack]

So, my new plan is to drain the oil, pull the crossover, starter, and the side gear cover.

Reverse the steps, and be sure everything accessible is well torqued and CLEAN.

Go for a slow ride and watch for leaks.

If it still indicates what I thought originally, I'll pull the gearbox or portions of it when I replace the shock spring.

I also want to pull the side cover to see how it adjusts

54759[/snapback]

Hey Dave, can I borrow your new Ohlins fork while yer Guz is in surgery? Just kiddin'. You've got me really curious - who did your trans recall work?

[dlaing]

Sonny Angel Motorcycles did the work.

They offered to fix the leak, but after hearing them whine about how little they get paid for the warranty work, they make me feel guilty about returning it to them, so, I'll just do it myself.

Also, I did not buy the bike from them, so there is more guilt for that reason....especially because of the posts on this board about paying more to buy local. <_ but i still argue that the warranty should be international and not local. src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_mad.gif" alt=":angry:">

If I do the work, I know I will do a better job cleaning out the gearbox.

I can check the pawl spring.

I can check for other damage.

I can loctite the bolts and use sealant on the faces or joints or whatever it is called.

Yah, the mechanic could or should do these things to, but I have more faith in myself.

Plus it is easier to do the work my self than to find a ride back and then to the shop to pick it up.

...or maybe I am just a sucker.

[dlaing]

Dave,

When you reassemble the clean transmission, put a bit of baby powder on it- the powder absorbs the oil and helps locate the leak.  Dunno where I first heard that.

54771[/snapback]

Thanks for the tip!

I have some Paglieri Felce Azzurra (Italian perfumed talc)

I suppose that will be more appropriate than Johnson&Johnson, even if she is my baby

[Guest ratchethack]

If I do the work, I know I will do a better job cleaning out the gearbox.

I can check the pawl spring.

I can check for other damage.

I can loctite the bolts and use sealant on the faces or joints or whatever it is called.

Yah, the mechanic could or should do these things to, but I have more faith in myself.

Plus it is easier to do the work my self than to find a ride back and then to the shop to pick it up.

54778[/snapback]

I'm right wit' ya, Dave. This has been my continuing philosophy on motorcycle ownership since 1965. I'd only add that when you do your own work, should any future problem arise, your probability of being able to solve it immediately on the road or in your garage goes up at least an order of magnitude. You know exactly what's going on - 'cause YOU were the last one to touch it. My experience has been that the closer you can get to being dependent only on yourself, the closer you can get to that elusive - but oh so heavenly - 100% up-time.

 

Is it just me, or is it a universal thing that Guzzisti everywhere seem to hold this philosophy to a far greater extent than your garden-variety motorcyclist? Maybe that's why we also tend to be happier and our blood pressure is lower?

[dlaing]

Since no one has responded I will give it a stab.  The part of the adjustment bolt that is inside the transmission has been machined to form a shaft that is eccentric or offset from the bolt itself.  This shaft goes into a window in a flange that is attached to the shifter shaft.  The eccentric shaft limits the rotation, or thow, of the shifter shaft for up and down shifts.  The eccentric nature of the shaft allows for adjustment of the travel by rotating it for proper shifting.

 

Where are the experts?  Did I guess right?

54564[/snapback]

Excellent guess, but wrong.

And my guess was wrong too.

As I was looking at it, I thought you were correct, but then I realized that it only limited travel in one direction, and I thought this can't be right. So I activated the shifter with eccentric lobe maxed out in either direction and discovered that it sets the neutral point of spring pressure on the ratchet. Meaning that if it is maxed out in one direction, the ratchet will not re-engage on up-shifts, and if it is maxed out in the other direction, the ratchet will not re-engage on down-shifts.

Keep in mind that it does not need to be maxed out to not re-engage.

There is only a quarter turn of adjustability where it seems to be happy.

Atleast on my bike. Your mileage will vary...

Of course I set it in the middle of that quarter turn.

The bike was previously not set to the middle of that quarter turn.

I hope this will fix my missed shifts!

I also marked the lobe apex or whatever it is called on the set screw so that I can adjust it from outside and know what the heck is going on inside.

Now back to the autoparts store to return the gasket remover that was missing the aerosol top.

Oh, and the good news was no apparent binding on the spring. I guess cause it is a 2000....or they fixed it durring the recall (not likely).

[Guest putt-meister]

Very interesting and makes sense looking at the part's manual. The eccentric pin (#9) goes through the forked end of spring #28 and positions it with respect to the case. The forked end of spring #28 also engages the pivot shaft of ratchet arm #24. Adjusting the eccentric raises or lowers the rest postion of the shift lever and the rest position of ratchet lever #24.

 

Thanks for passing along the straight scoop.

[Guest ratchethack]

Thanks Dave and John, for the clarification. Great info. Dave, to make things simpler for maintenance purposes, does the orientation of the slot in the screw-face align with the orientation of the eccentric lobe? In other words, is the slot in line with the direction of the offset?

[dlaing]

Very well said Putt-Meister! I was not sure my writing was clear.

 

Ratchethack, you would think that the slot lined up with the lobe....but no.

To free the lock nut from the adjuster screw I had to back the nut and aduster screw out to the limit of the adjuster screw, which locked at the end of its travel so that the lock nut would unlock from the position it was stuck or glued in.

Also, going deeply in or out seems to make no difference.

Be careful. I could be overlooking something.

If you never mis-shift don't mess with it.

If you mis-shift both up and down-shifts, it it probably a different problem.

If you shift and then it does click right and then you can't go to the next gear, then you might want to adjust it.

But mark where you started.

It is possible to make it worse.

One half turn takes the lobe 180 degrees, so stay within a quarter turn of where the factory adjusted it. Adjust in small increments, be patient and test it every 15 degrees of the 180 degree arc, to find where it shifts well and where it shifts poorly.

 

 

Oh, and here is another tip: If you take it apart, DON'T TOUCH THE DOGEARS!!!!

Take it apart in neutral or first and leave it there.

I was worried I'd never get it back together.

Oh, and keep the gasket remover off the paint

[Ouiji Veck]

I was tinkering with the bike and noticed the large acorn nut so I decided to see what was under it.  To my amazement there was a large adjustment screw with a locking nut under it.  This is right next to shifter where it enters the transmission case.

 

What does it adjust?

 

Mike

54561[/snapback]

 

I beleive I'm going to be playing with this #9 eccentric pin too.

In the process of inspecting my gear selector spring (looks fine and was shifting fine

and I have a spare) I cranked this accorn nut way out thinking it was part of pulling the side cover off.,..after reassembly(and cranking this nut back to approx, where it was) she's not down shifting too well. It would down shift fine if I gave the shifter a little flick with my toe.(I've ruled out the spring thing) I realize I just need to adjust the pin a little. My quandry is doing it without creating a leak.

Any suggestions?

Thank the Makers for this board!

[Guest MikeC]

I beleive I'm going to be playing with this #9 eccentric pin too.

In the process of inspecting my gear selector spring (looks fine and was shifting fine

and I have a spare) I cranked this accorn nut way out thinking it was part of pulling the side cover off.,..after reassembly(and cranking this nut back to approx, where it was) she's not down shifting too well. It would down shift fine if I gave the shifter a little flick with my toe.(I've ruled out the spring thing) I realize I just need to adjust the pin a little. My quandry is doing it without creating a leak.

Any suggestions?

Thank the Makers for this board!

55930[/snapback]

 

Just removing the acorn nut changes nothing, it's only a cover. Did you loosen the locking nut under it and adjust the screw in or out?

 

Mike

[Ouiji Veck]

Just removing the acorn nut changes nothing, it's only a cover.  Did you loosen the locking nut under it and adjust the screw in or out?

 

Mike

55935[/snapback]

 

Yea...I cranked both of 'em out togeather because I couldn't get on the inner

one alone...about to go out and invent a wrench right now...

 

I realize I've got to break the 2 nuts apart...take off the acorn...adjust the bolt

...lock the inner nut..replace the acorn...

just 2 things stopping me...a wrench to hold that inner nut...and which way/how much

to adj....guess thats trial and error...oh yea...third thing...not creating a leak.

3 1/2 days away from a nine day trip....GACK!

(I'm taking more tools than clothes)

[dlaing]

So, I finally got the bike together.

The leak is 70 - 90% better ( I popped the back cover off, and tightened all allen heads I could find.)

I had set the adjuster screw to balance the ratchet right in between upshift failure and downshift failure. The result is flawless up-shifts, but down-shifts are a little dodgy if I don't go through the gears. The reason, I surmise, is that the weight of the shift lever is pushing the ratchet in the direction of a down-shift so that the ratchet does not always engage after a down-shift.

It looks like I will be following Ouiji's lead and adjusting blindly with a closed box. (the other solution would be to put a counter weight to neutralize the weight ot the lever.

I now have a pretty good idea how it works, so I am confident that it will shift better than ever!

[dlaing]

My quandry is doing it without creating a leak.

Any suggestions?

Thank the Makers for this board!

55930[/snapback]

Just use new crush washers and you will have no leaks.

[Ouiji Veck]

Just use new crush washers and you will have no leaks.

56017[/snapback]

 

What a bord!!

Thanks so much everyone. I did a few laps around the neighbor hood

jumping on and off the bike and adjusting Mr #9 (A 19mm wrench was sacrificed to the

Guzzi Gods) When I got the tranny happy..1/4 turn from orig...I nailed it down.

Shifting real nice now. I imagine this is the cure for everyones shifting woes.

Someone should meltdown a synopsis of this disscusion and post it where

those with poor shifting can sus it out.

 

Great work dlang and ratcet..mikeC...I'm feeling exponentially more confident

in getting this beast sorted out.

 

Silver V11 ..dlang...I love those..wish they left that black crap off that beautiful

motor

on mine.

 

ratchethack...I wear a helmet like that when I ride my 80 SP around.

Luftwaffer....it's a kick and really sends the HD guys...there so into

the Theater of it all. ..and that little tractor with those BUBs barks right back

at them...Yea man...9 days of ride camp drink repeat in Nova Scotia

with 5 of my best friends...The Lonesome Wierdos...circling the drain..

35+ years riding togeather...

Life IS good

[th_01]

I have the same leak issues after the recall fix. I couldn't take the gear oil burning on the exhaust anymore. The mechanic taking the transmission out again and causing more damage all over with nicks and scratches was too much for me to bear.

 

I have to reseal all the trans cases. Each one of them leaks. I believe he didn't wait long enough for the sealant toset before putting in the oil AND didn't clean the surfaces. The Yamabond never bonded.

 

Tom

 

So, I finally got the bike together.

The leak is 70 - 90% better ( I popped the back cover off, and tightened all allen heads I could find.)

I had set the adjuster screw to balance the ratchet right in between upshift failure and downshift failure. The result is flawless up-shifts, but down-shifts  are a little dodgy if I don't go through the gears. The reason, I surmise, is that the weight of the shift lever is pushing the ratchet in the direction of a down-shift so that the ratchet does not always engage after a down-shift.

It looks like I will be following Ouiji's lead and adjusting blindly with a closed box. (the other solution would be to put a counter weight to neutralize the weight ot the lever.

I now have a pretty good idea how it works, so I am confident that it will shift better than ever!

56016[/snapback]