Oh my God!

[Ouiji Veck]

What have I fryed?

I was just disconnecting my battery to

take my starter off to check my shift return spring and

hit the Magnetti Marelli (reg/ rec?) and drew an arch...

Have I toasted anything....everything???

[callison]

What have I fryed?

I was just disconnecting my battery to

take my starter off to check my shift return spring and

hit the Magnetti Marelli (reg/ rec?) and drew an arch...

Have I toasted anything....everything???

55438[/snapback]

 

Probably not. The regulator is up front so what you hit was the ECU. The ECU case is solidly grounded and shields the interior pretty well. You might have damaged the ground wire on the case of the ECU though, so I'd give that a real good measurement with an ohmmeter. If that ground wire melted inside of the wire harness, you would also have problems there but a meter will tell you first whether there is good continuity or not. FWIW, I've hit the ECU case on my California with the positive battery lead before and done no damage.

 

Now for the important part. When you are disconnecting the battery - disconnect the Negative terminal first. That way, when you're wrenching on the positive terminal afterwards or a positive battery connection flails about, it will have no return path through any of the surrounding motorcycle frame, electrical components and so forth.

[Ouiji Veck]

Probably not. The regulator is up front so what you hit was the ECU. The ECU case is solidly grounded and shields the interior pretty well. You might have damaged the ground wire on the case of the ECU though, so I'd give that a real good measurement with an ohmmeter. If that ground wire melted inside of the wire harness, you would also have problems there but a meter will tell you first whether there is good continuity or not. FWIW, I've hit the ECU case on my California with the positive battery lead before and done no damage.

 

Now for the important part. When you are disconnecting the battery - disconnect the Negative terminal first. That way, when you're wrenching on the positive terminal afterwards or a positive battery connection flails about, it will have no return path through any of the surrounding motorcycle frame, electrical components and so forth.

55439[/snapback]

 

Thanks...

Ahhh......

When I slap it back togeather I guess I'll find out...

Now to look up the diagram showing the tranny panel..

almost there...

I wonder if I can tell the condition of that selector spring by looking..

I guess if it's loose on the pawl I'm all right...

[dlaing]

When you are disconnecting the battery - disconnect the Negative terminal first.

...And for the same reason, when you re-connect the battery - connect the Positive[/b] terminal first.

 

The thing to remember is that handling the Positive is much safer when Negative Ground is disconnected.

There is a lot of metal around the positive. It probably would be a good idea to cover it, especiallyt the ECU, when messing with the battery.

The biggest problem I have had is when you disconnect the Negative lines, keeping the wires tucked away so that they don't bounce back and risk a short.

I agree with Carl, you probably did not fry anything.

[dlaing]

I guess if it's loose on the pawl I'm all right...

55446[/snapback]

It has to be loose on the pawl when activated.

I tightens when you either upshift or downshift, sorry, don't remember.

I believe you should feel the binding if it is present.

You will certainly be able to see a broken spring.

I found it was difficult not to be 100% certain.

Oh, and in case you missed it in the instructions, you only need to remove the 5mm allen heads to remove the plate.(And remove the starter, and the shift linkage)But you don't have to remove the hex nut, the acorn nut, the idle sensor, or the little shift lever(if you disconnected the linkage)

[Ouiji Veck]

It has to be loose on the pawl when activated.

I tightens when you either upshift or downshift, sorry, don't remember.

I believe you should feel the binding if it is present.

You will certainly be able to see a broken spring.

I found it was difficult not to be 100% certain.

Oh, and in case you missed it in the instructions, you only need to remove the 5mm allen heads to remove the plate.(And remove the starter, and the shift linkage)But you don't have to remove the hex nut, the acorn nut, the idle sensor, or the little shift lever(if you disconnected the linkage)

55450[/snapback]

 

Thanks Guys...

Yup...as soon as I saw the Arch I did a Homer....DOH!

"Negative first you supid head!"

And I was a little tentative taking off the cover..."What was falling off the other

side?) .... Now I've been there and could do it road side no sweat.

Spring looked happy and loose...9000mi...should be one of the good ones.

I got a spare in the tank bag...

Rear wheel shim/berring inspection ...torque the heads..adj. valves ..balance TBs

insulate fule line..I should be good to go...

Still waiting on Sachs rebuild...already got relays replaced...

Oh yea...grease U joints..while the shock and wheel is off..check Valve stems...

What am I forgetting? ( Don't want to find out in Nova Scotia)

[dlaing]

What am I forgetting? ( Don't want to find out in Nova Scotia)

55476[/snapback]

Ouiji Board® says, Y-O-U-F-O-R-G-O-T-T-H-E-D-A-M-N-"Good Bye"

[dlaing]

Sorry, I don't mean to jinx you. I have fond memories of fixing electrical problems, in the dark without a flashlight,on the side of I87 going from NYC to Montreal on my V65.

The V11 is a much more reliable machine.

I am sure you have the improved relays, made sure your fuel hoses are not hitting the cooling fins, all the bolts are tight, etc.

Besides, you will be heading away from the Bermuda Triangle....unless you head towards southern Nova Scotia...