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rear wheel woes


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Guest hogjockey
Posted

Hey guys is there a rear wheel bearing other than OEM i can use to maybe save some $$$$$$ . I have never seen a more rusted axle on any motorcycle i have ever owned. PLease reply asap i need to get this thig back together, cant wait to try my new soft compound Dunlop GPs :race:

Posted
Hey guys is there a rear wheel bearing other than OEM i can use to maybe save some $$$$$$ . I have never seen a more rusted axle on any motorcycle i have ever owned. PLease reply asap i need to get this thig back together, cant wait to try my new soft compound Dunlop GPs :race:

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The bearing is 6204 sealed bearing with dimensions of 20x47x14

NAPA part number is 6204-2RSJ

SKF 6204-2RSI or SKF 6204-2RSH or SKF 6204-2RSL

The SKF 6204-2RSL is for lower friction

The SKF 6204-2RS is for better seal

The SKF 6204-2RSI may be outdated, but is probably most common.

I think the NAPA is an SKF 6204-2RSI

Anybody know how to get the bearing out???

  • Thanks 1
Posted
Hey guys is there a rear wheel bearing other than OEM i can use to maybe save some $$$$$$ . I have never seen a more rusted axle on any motorcycle i have ever owned. PLease reply asap i need to get this thig back together, cant wait to try my new soft compound Dunlop GPs :race:

55784[/snapback]

There have been a number of threads related to this recently, giving part numbers and prices – much, much cheaper than Guzzi prices. I haven't got time to look now: see what a search throws up and I'll look again later.

When you talk about rust I guess you are refering to the needle roller bearing rather than the internal wheel bearings. If the wheel bearings are rusty –> :o I had trouble getting that bearing out, but it's explained in the thread(s). I put in a new bearing inner ring without the small drilled hole to see if it retains grease/excludes water better. You need to get both the needle roller race and the inner ring: 2 separate parts. And lots of grease.

Guest Nogbad
Posted

If it's the small needle roller bearing in the outer side of the drive box you are referring to, make sure you clean it out with paraffin and get a good look before assuming it's done for.

 

Mine looked bad, with corrosion on the axle and rusty looking grease, but when I cleaned it out the needles were fine, and the inner race was only slightly discoloured at one end.

 

I did post a load of pictures here:

 

Needle roller thread

Guest hogjockey
Posted
It sounds like you want to keep the V11 now? Did you resolve the poor mpg problem? If so what was the cause of the low mileage?

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Still working on the MPG problems. I really am at a loss. but im ordering new oil temp sensor and injector. if that dont do it, well?????????I guess I have a guzzi that gets poor fuel economy. But I do just love to look at it. Think Ill just keep it for track days. Installing a new set of dunlopGPs Im told they are a good race tire. We will see. i HAVE TRIED to include a pic of the bike so you can see what it looks like now but i always seem to have problems doing it.. Ill figure it out. thanks for the help. :race:

Posted

I've just taken the back wheel out. The new needle roller bearing was running in water (and grease). There was water on the axle when it was withdrawn. Despite being thoroughly packed with grease a month ago and waterpoof grease applied around outside of bevelbox/swingarm interface, it seems that it is easy for water to ingress and lie in this bearing.

 

 

Best to clean and regrease every time the wheel is off, then.

Posted
I've just taken the back wheel out. The new needle roller bearing was running in water (and grease). There was water on the axle when it was withdrawn. Despite being thoroughly packed with grease a month ago and waterpoof grease applied around outside of bevelbox/swingarm interface, it seems that it is easy for water to ingress and lie in this bearing.

Best to clean and regrease every time the wheel is off, then.

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You're not the only one with this probem, I havent had this problem with my bike yet as I dont ride it in the rain. However my yearly maintenance will be to remove both wheels & regrease the axles & the driveshaft. Along with checking the valves etc. Hunker down Hogjockey....Dennis is Coming For You!!!! lol

Guest Nogbad
Posted
You're not the only one with this probem, I havent had this problem with my bike yet as I dont ride it in the rain. However my yearly maintenance will be to remove both wheels & regrease the axles & the driveshaft. Along with checking the valves etc. Hunker down Hogjockey....Dennis is Coming For You!!!! lol

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I ride mine in the rain regularly and don't seem to have this problem. I suggest, if you do have the problem, you get some grease for marine outboard motor gears. This type emulsifies the water locking it up and contains corrosion inhibitors to prevent attack on the metal.

Posted

I just regreased mine. The old grease was brown from rust...In Sunny San Diego :sun:

That Marine Grease sounds like a good idea :thumbsup:

I also replaced the two wheel bearings and made a bearing spacer out of 1inch OD aluminum pipe.

My concern with using aluminum is that when I next have to drive out a bearing, it will give more than the steel.

To center the spacer from the inner walls of the wheel I bought three fat O-rings. Two of them sandwiched the original spacer's spacer, the other I put at the other end, just to make sure it does not get lost, but now that it is tight, that should not be an issue.

The original spacer was less than half a millimeter too short from flush. :

My new aluminum spacer is somewhere between a millimeter and half a millimeter longer than flush.

I guess that is good as it will probably mush down a little under torque :huh2:

I am now on my third brake side wheel bearing. I hope this will make it last!

Anyway, because of the aluminum, I now have less unsprung weight!!!

Back to the garage, Three weeks with no riding!!! :wacko:

Posted
I ride mine in the rain regularly and don't seem to have this problem. I suggest, if you do have the problem, you get some grease for marine outboard motor gears. This type emulsifies the water locking it up and contains corrosion inhibitors to prevent attack on the metal.

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I wonder what the difference in the bearing set-ups is? But surely you said before that yours was rusty and you cleaned it out with paraffin?

 

I am using a marine 'waterproof' grease, though it may not be as special a spec as the one that you are refering to. I'm having second thoughts about the inner ring. Next time I think I'll change it back to one with a drilled hole. I thought the solid ring would be better to keep water out and grease in, but as the water is getting in anyway, maybe the hole will let some of it out – though where it wil end-up, I don't know.

Guest ratchethack
Posted

May I suggest an old enduro rider's trick I learned over 3 decades and a dozen motorcycles ago: BTWBG - Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease. Formulated specifically to resist water intrusion. My Guzzi has it everywhere there's a need for grease where I've found any evidence (or liklihood) of water. I've been through my Guzzi pretty extensively, and that's a lot of places. Adheres well to hub and shaft splines too. :thumbsup:

Posted
BTWBG - Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease.  Formulated specifically to resist water intrusion.

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yeh, that's the stuff. I guess, though, that motorbikes go a bit faster through the rain than boat trailers go through the sea.

Guest ratchethack
Posted

Hmmmm.....very curious, Belfast. When I was a kid I worked for the largest marina in the state of Michigan one summer. More recently, I've been a member of a yacht club in San Diego, CA, have experienced the *two happiest days* in a boat owner's life :wub::blush: , and currently crew on a very successful (yet very casual B) ) racing yacht. :P I reckon I've personally launched and hauled out hundreds of boats of all manner of description on trailers. But in all my boating days I've never seen a boat trailer go through the sea. I have seen one or two on the freeway after hauling out with wheel hubs completely submerged, though.... :D

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