rear wheel woes

[dlaing]

My memory is a little foggy, but I recall removing the circlip is not necessary. And I recall I tried to remove it anyway

Just drift the bearings out from the back side.

Stick a drift through the good bearing, hold the tip to the edge of the bad bearing and carefully but firmly whack it. Alternate drift placement to keep the bearing coming out straight.

Note that your bearing spacer probably has some notches that help give the drift more access.

Getting the right size drift is the hardest part.

A half inch to quarter inch steel or brass rod would be most ideal.

[dlaing]

I noticed the bearing was made in France! 

87388[/snapback]

Bloody cannibals!

Although the seal fell out and probably caused the failure,

you may still have the dreaded short spacer problem.

To determine, pull your bad bearing, and then look to see which sticks out further, your bearing spacer or your bearing seat. The spacer should stick out more than somewhere about 0.05mm (there is lengthy discussion on how much longer it should be)

If you have to remake the spacer, be sure to use metal which will not distort under the high torqued pressure of the axle nut.

cut the spacer to somewhere between 0.05 and 0.5 mm longer than the space between the seats.

I think Pete Roper said just cut it 0.15 or was it 0.25 longer than the distance between the seat faces.

[belfastguzzi]

The washer like seal had disconnected from the bearing and you can see into the bearing.  There are several balls missing and what is left is completely dry and rusty. 

87388[/snapback]

:!: :!:

 

I couldn't see how you knew the bearing was dry and rusty. That explains it!

The accepted theory is that the spacer tube (which you refer to) is often too short and and the resulting lack of support leads to early disintegration of the ballbearing. Solution is to add a 1mm (or thereabouts) shim when you replace the bearings or else get a properly sized spacer. I made a shim. I've had a new spacer on order for about 6 months and there's still no sign of it arriving. Of course yours may be ok, but you should measure your hub and your spacer dimensions to check.

 

Edit: I see DL has already posted about the spacer

Edit 2: This thread has pages and pages on the spacer. Oh

[belfastguzzi]

Try these for info on bearing removal and more besides.

 

Rear wheel bearings, numbers etc and spacer

This thread! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5537

 

Bearing removal

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...topic=4923&st=0

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5601&hl=

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4012&hl=

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=808&hl=

 

Bearing and circlip removal

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2433&hl=

 

Needle roller

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6914&hl=

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5058

 

More on: Spacer

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5711&hl=

 

Front wheel bearings

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5680&hl=

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2429&hl=

 

Related: bearings and rear brake problem

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2732&hl=

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2861&hl=

[nose2wind]

  :!:  :!:

 

I couldn't see how you knew the bearing was dry and rusty. That explains it!

The accepted theory is that the spacer tube (which you refer to) is often too short and and the resulting lack of support leads to early disintegration of the ballbearing. Solution is to add a 1mm (or thereabouts) shim when you replace the bearings or else get a properly sized spacer. I made a shim. I've had a new spacer on order for about 6 months and there's still no sign of it arriving. Of course yours may be ok, but you should measure your hub and your spacer dimensions to check.

 

Edit: I see DL has already posted about the spacer

Edit 2: This thread has pages and pages on the spacer. Oh 

87405[/snapback]

 

Thanks for all the info, Got it apart last night and put back together too. Used the NAPA bearing. All the rest were ok except for the needle bearing. Glad I checked it too. It was rusty but I cleaned it real good and re-greased it. I think it can last till winter when I will look over the whole hind end again. I have 42,000 miles on the bike. My spacer seems to measure about the same as the space between the races. I don't have a micrometer just a tape measure. If this was way off I would think it could not have gone this far. If someone makes some replacements I would be interested. As far as the needle bearing that really seems to be a crappy piece of work. We should find a sealed unit that could replace it.

 

Thanks again.

[docc]

What good is a 10 page thread if someone doesn't dredge it up about every year?

 

I just managed to beat another left side wheel bearing out of the Sport. 14,000 miles on the first bearing, 35,000 on this one. I've cleaned and packed a new French SKF 3204-2RS1 (no C3 designation) Moto Guzzi bearing with BelRay and have it in the freezer waiting to be put in a warmed wheel.

 

I am leaving off the centering collars for the spacer to make the next bearing replacement more reasonable. Other than the hassle centering the spacer each time the wheel goes back on, I don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out?

[nose2wind]

I am leaving off the centering collars for the spacer to make the next bearing replacement more reasonable. Other than the hassle centering the spacer each time the wheel goes back on, I don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out?

 

Docc, I put the centering collars back in but I moved them close together towards the center of the spacer.

When trying to punch out the bearing I can rock the spacer back and forth to get at the bearing. I change out my tires more often and like the ease of putting the axle back thru without dealing with the spacer not lining up. This is all in theory as I have not had to do the bearing a second time. I didn't use one of those crappy "French" bearings in my bike. That is the type (I fart in your general direction) which went to hell on me the first time!! Good luck!!

You might as well go back and change it now!!

 

Later,

 

Bird Dawg

[Baldini]

...don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out?..

 

Docc, I left em off. It's a bit more faffing around to locate axle but no big deal (I insert something from opposite side to centre spacer, then push axle thru).

 

KB

[docc]

Thanks for the feedback. When my first bearing went out the dealer sent me a pair. So, I guess you could say this is part of my Seven Year Warranty!

[Indiana Chuck]

Well, that was much ado about nothing. I slogged through all 10 pages of this, expecting to make a spacer for a friend's V11.

I *cleaned up the counterbores* in the wheel, cleaned the spacer, got out my depth micrometers, and had at it. If I were designing this part, I would specify the spacer to be the same length as the bottom of the two counterbores with a tolerance of plus .005", minus .000.

His was plus .003". Perfect. Way to go Guzzi.

So, why did his fail? Maybe a cheap OEM bearing? Dunno. Maybe the crud in the bottom of the counterbores keeping the outer races from fully seating? Could be. I officially quit worrying about this..

[jrt]

I've got one spacer that I made up and won't use. 4.445" by 1"OD X 0.86" ID. Should work ok. Yours for the price of shipping.

It is a just a tiny bit shorter (no jokes BelfastGuzzi) and slightly larger ID than the ones I had made up a couple years ago.