rear wheel woes

[gh67]

2RSL or 2RSH.......where the heck can you get them??? I'm not having luck in my googling....can only find older styles. Was going to get a set of 6204 and 6205's for when I change some axle spacers in the near future.

[dlaing]

2RSL or 2RSH.......where the heck can you get them??? 

56235[/snapback]

http://www.ebatmus.com

do a search there for 6204-2rsh and 6205-2rsh

They have C2 and non-C2

The price is a lot less than I paid NAPA for the inferior 6204/5-2rsj that are SKF 6204-2rs1 and 6205-2rs1.

I was not prepared and needed them same day, otherwise I would have gone mail order through ebatmus.

Let us know if their service is any good if you go with them.

Who knows, they may not like selling small orders.

 

 

EDIT having just said that the -2rs1 is inferior to the -2rsh, I noticed the -2rs1 costs more money!

[Guest ratchethack]

Dave, once again - when it comes to sourcing stuff, you're The Master Web Crawler! Great stuff. I replaced a rear bevel-side whl brg about a year back and just went with what the counter guy at NAPA came up with for a cross. I remember it was ~$18, but of all the records I have for everything I've done to the Guzzi, this record seems to be missing, so I don't know what the P/N is. It's got at least 10K on it without any symptoms at last tire change. I'm pretty sure it's a 6204, and I know it's sealed, but not which one.

 

From the link you supplied with detailed attributes of the variants, I like the 6204-RSH (non-C2). At $8.16 a copy from E. B. Atmus, it makes sense to order a set for spares. Cheap insurance against unplanned down-time.

 

I'm pretty sure the front and rear bearings the same, is this correct?

 

Thanks again!

[gh67]

I'm pretty sure the front and rear bearings the same, is this correct?

56245[/snapback]

Fronts are 6205. I’m still not sure whether to go with the H or L….wonder how much additional resistance the H has with the contacting seals….enough to really affect wheel friction compared to the L? I don't see any 2RSH or 2RSL bearings that are C3...on only standard and C2. C2 has smaller clearance....C3 larger.

 

Then again, really wonder if all this really matters given that these bearings are built for 10K-20K rpms and heavy machinery....doubt our 500 lb goose is going to over stress any of them......but then again, I'm in no way an expert in this area.

 

From the E.B. site...not exactly quantitative

 

C/1 - Internal Clearance is smaller than C/2.

C/2 - Internal Clearance is smaller than STANDARD.

STANDARD - No clearance marking is indicated on the bearing or packaging.

C/3 - Internal Clearance larger than STANDARD.

C/4 - Internal Clearance larger than C/3.

C/5 - Internal Clearance larger than C/4

[dlaing]

I believe if you have the solid axle, one bearing is 6304-2rs1 and the other is 6205-2rs1.

I kind of like the idea of going with the low friction ones to make our bikes faster and more efficient.

I find it pathetic that my car goes down hill faster in third gear with no throttle and air-conditioning on, than my bike does with the clutch pulled in and me in a tuck position.

Maybe lower friction bearings could make a difference

But then again, the bearings are not getting hot from the friction, so the friction advantage might only benefit a bicycle or something that relies heavily on minimal friction.

 

I love Google! If you want to go to a Kawasaki dealer,

http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Kawasak..._Bearings1.html

Has a cross ref for 6204 6304 and 6205

[Guest Nogbad]

Believe me. The friction of the wheel bearing seals is 2 parts of naff all, regardless of which bearing your choose. The C3 tolerance is specified, probably because of the press fit into the steel sleeve in the wheel, and / or temperature rise. Stick with that. A tighter standard bearing will account for more friction than the seals will.

 

The friction from the front and rear brake pads rubbing, and the gear losses in the tranny and final drive account for that downhill resistance to a far far far greater extent than the bearing seals in the wheels.

[dlaing]

OK, so now we ideally need xxxx-2rsh C3

Anyone know a source?

 

Oh, and I found this on a BritBike Forum

Ron - in California

Member # 18  - posted January 24, 2005 01:09 Ouch.. the "C3" is the code you want for sure... all the bearing shops I have contacted only have standard in stock, and IF they will order the C3, then the price goes up (low volume high price). When you contact any of the Brit Bike shops, the price they quote is based on that.. do NOT think they are a "rip off." They are merely supplying the correct bearing for the job. What is also important to know, that on many Brit bikes, the wheel bearing (especially the rear QD ones) are not only pressed into the hub, but also pressed on to a center shaft-spacer, and if you use standard bearings they WILL be too tight and will fail. BTDT, and I got lucky.! Just leave the chain off and spin the wheel.. it will have way more drag (and it won't be the seals) than it should.

 

I STRONGLY urge folks do NOT make suggestions about substitutions like some of the above, unless they are darn sure. As in some cases that substitution could cause injury or death. If the originals were C3 then the replacements should be as well.

http://www.britbike.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ultima...y;f=10;t=003265

[dlaing]

From the last link, somebody posted this company:

http://www.dynaroll.com/catalog/6000series.htm

It took me a few tries to get to there web page

[gh67]

OK, so now we ideally need xxxx-2rsh C3

Anyone know a source?

56262[/snapback]

 

dlaing - exactly....I looked on the Dynaroll site and saw "standard open" but nothing specific about having a 2RSH/L C3 of either a 6204 or 6205. think we may have to call up some places.

[dlaing]

Having just spent $40+ on a pair of wheel bearings, I was not rushing out to buy C3s, but this thread has left me concerned that bearing seizure is something to be concerned about.

Brian Robson posted that he had replaced his bearings and then had the inner bevel axle bearing seize up on him.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...topic=4979&st=0

Of course this bearing runs hotter than the wheel bearings(unless your rear brake is dragging)

But it is possible that Brian fitted standard bearings just before the seizure.

Brian, if you are reading, let us know, please.

My other concern is that I made my spacer with a hand held pipe cutter, so it is not perfectly square. It is square enough that torquing the axle nut did not restrict wheel movement. But just the same, it is all the more reason to switch to C3s and replace the spacer. Not locking up and crashing is key.

[Guest ratchethack]

Dave, I'd make my spacer as precisely square as it can be made on a lathe. If you get it out of square, you're almost certainly looking at short bearing life, depending on how far off you are. A pipe cutter, Dave?!?! Did you also use plain old black or galvanized "pipe" for your spacer then?!?! Just checking. Sorry, but that stuff's pretty soft, and the idea of using it for a spacer just makes my skin crawl - but then again, that's just me...

 

As you said, "Not locking up and crashing is key."

[dlaing]

Dave, I'd make my spacer as precisely square as it can be made on a lathe.  If you get it out of square, you're almost certainly looking at short bearing life, depending on how far off you are.  A pipe cutter, Dave?!?!  Did you also use plain old black or galvanized "pipe" for your spacer then?!?!  Just checking.  Sorry, but that stuff's pretty soft, and the idea of using it for a spacer just makes my skin crawl - but then again, that's just me...

 

As you said, "Not locking up and crashing is key."

56326[/snapback]

aluminum...

[Guest ratchethack]

aluminum...

T-6 or better, I hope?

[dlaing]

generic pipe stock...but the heaviest gauge on the rack at Marshall's.

The good news is it may be soft enough to make up for my lack of squareness

But seriously, I guess I need help.

I suppose I need to pay some machinist a hundred bucks for something for me to mash up next time I pull a bearing...

Or, if I actually find the -2srh I may never need to pull a bearing again!

Dang these bikes are either expensive or you need a lathe, a mill, welding torches, forges, and the luck of Rambo under fire!

Next time anyone says, "just make a spacer for it" I am going to launch into a hideous tirade!

So, where can you get 1inch OD T6 or T8 aluminum pipe of the appropriate gauge?

I suppose drilled rod would be even better.

I guess a machinist could find something proper...

Any advice on where to go to find a machinist?

Joe Kenny?

Mike Stewart, I know you have the ability. Feel up to making a lousy buck?

Maybe I will do a run of ten and sell them for small profit.

[gh67]

generic pipe stock...but the heaviest gauge on the rack at Marshall's.

The good news is it may be soft enough to make up for my lack of squareness

But seriously, I guess I need help.

I suppose I need to pay some machinist a hundred bucks for something for me to mash up next time I pull a bearing...

Or, if I actually find the -2srh I may never need to pull a bearing again!

Dang these bikes are either expensive or you need a lathe, a mill, welding torches, forges, and the luck of Rambo under fire!

Next time anyone says, "just make a spacer for it" I am going to launch into a hideous tirade!

So, where can you get 1inch OD T6 or T8 aluminum pipe of the appropriate gauge?

I suppose drilled rod would be even better.

I guess a machinist could find something proper...

Any advice on where to go to find a machinist?

Joe Kenny?

Mike Stewart, I know you have the ability. Feel up to making a lousy buck?

Maybe I will do a run of ten and sell them for small profit.

56360[/snapback]

 

and I'd happily pay your small profit.....ha ha!