'03 LeMans 2700 mile report

[Chet in MI]

Well, 2700 miles on my '03 LeMans (purchased a year ago) and I've got two problems, one of which may be an obvious fix, the second is totally weird, and both of which should be fixable under warranty. Just wondering who, if anyone, has come across these as well. Here goes: 1. Rear shock is leaking fluid after yesterday's 3-hour ride. Should I be worried about ridng it to the dealer, about 45 minutes away? 2. On about 4 occasions bike wouldn't start. And by this I mean nothing, no sound whatsoever (other than the usual whirring sound of the fuel pump?). And I think I tried everything - switching switches on/off, in/out of neutral, kickstand up/down. Once it just started on its own for no apparent reason. Last two times I figured, "What the heck" and after trying all the above I beeped the horn, at which point the bike started immediately!! Coincidence?

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

BTW I'm still in love with the thing especially after having MPH bar risers installed

[txrider]

Chet, I'm dealing with exactly the same no start problem and I think I know the problem although there are several good possibilities. Here's what I've done-

 

1. Removed the tank to get access to the pair of clutch safety switch connectors. One of mine was "waggling". This was likely the culprit. While there I used an ohm meter to test the switch break/continuity. It was ok. Applied DeOxit to terminals after tightening. Both of those bullet style connectors will be replaced with Packard/GM style as soon as I find the right crimper.

2. Traced the sidestand switch wire up to it's connnector, disconnected and tested that switch also. It showed to be good.

3. Removed the kill switch/starter switch housing and cleaned, applied DeOxit to those contacts.

4. Removed the relay which controls the starter ( first one in line from front of bike), cleaned the terminals and replaced. I have a new Bosch replacement if required.

Granted this is a shotgun approach but it eliminated possibilities and for now I'd like to keep the sidestand and clutch switches working rather than removing them. I bet you'll find one of these items is the culprit assuming your battery is at least 12.5 volts. I should have mentioned start there first, you might save yourself some time by doing so.

[Guest ratchethack]

1.  Rear shock is leaking fluid after yesterday's 3-hour ride.  Should I be worried about ridng it to the dealer, about 45 minutes away?  

 

2. On about 4 occasions bike wouldn't start. 

Hey Chet - no reason for undue concern.

 

W/re: to #1, IMHO there's not much danger, if any, riding 45 min to the dealer with a shock that's just starting to lose it's seal. While I'd say it's a good thing you caught it, and I'd consider this a valid warranty item and be sure to have them take care of it for you, the worst case scenario in the extremely unlikely event you lost this seal completely on the road would be a bit of a "bouncy" ride until you got to the dealer. More'n likely you'll not leak very much oil and otherwise won't notice a thing. I'd just ride it to the dealer and take a look now 'n then on the way.

 

W/re: to #2, I'm in agreement with TxRider. Both my Pal, "LeMans Dan", who rides the same year LM as you, and I have both had identical symptoms. Just as TxRider noted, we traced each of our problems to the clutch safety switch connectors under the tank on the left-hand side of the frame. As a quick cheap-and-dirty check to confirm the source of the problem, we both found that when in the intermittent no-start condition you described, a simple cycling of the front end from lock to lock would jiggle the bullet connectors enough to allow a start - every time. A mild annoyance, yet one I wouldn't ever trust any dealer to pursue (sorry, for my money, there are just too many dark roads some dealers might be apt to go down here ) without having a go at Txrider's solution #1 first (as Dan and I both did, also with complete success - but we just cycled the connectors,filled 'em with dielectric grease, and crimped 'em lightly), but again and as always - that's just me, and YMMV.

 

BTW - as we used to hear 'em say on campus (on "The Diag") in Ann Arbor, "Blow Goo!" EDIT: This is just a matter of fact. No offense whatsoever intended! I'm a BIG Wolverine fan!

[Chet in MI]

Hey Chet - no reason for undue concern. 

 

W/re: to #1, there's not much danger, if any, riding 45 min to the dealer with a shock that's just starting to lose it's seal.  While I'd say it's a good thing you caught it, and I'd consider this a valid warranty item and be sure to have them take care of it for you, the worst case scenario in the extremely unlikely event you lost this seal completely on the road would be a bit of a "bouncy" ride until you got to the dealer.  More'n likely you'll not leak very much oil and otherwise won't notice a thing.  I'd just ride it to the dealer and take a look now 'n then on the way.

 

W/re: to #2, I'm in agreement with TxRider.  Both my Pal, "LeMans Dan", who rides the same year LM as you, and I have both had identical symptoms.  Just as TxRider noted, we traced each of our problems to the clutch safety switch connectors under the tank on the left-hand side of the frame.  As a quick cheap-and-dirty check to confirm the source of the problem, we both found that when in the intermittent no-start condition you described, a simple cycling of the front end from lock to lock would jiggle the bullet connectors enough to allow a start - every time.  A mild annoyance, yet one I wouldn't ever trust any dealer to pursue (sorry, for my money, there are just too many dark roads some dealers might be apt to go down here <_ without having a go at txrider solution first dan and i both did also with complete success but we just cycled the connectors dielectric grease crimped lightly again as always that me ymmv. src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_sleep.png" alt="-_-">

 

BTW - as we used to hear 'em say on campus (on "The Diag") in Ann Arbor, "Blow Goo!"     EDIT:  This is just a matter of fact.  No offense whatsoever intended!  I'm a BIG Wolverine fan!

57104[/snapback]

MANY thanks to you and TxRider! As a rookie I greatly appreciate and continue to be impressed with the generosity of support on this forum! Your advice about the shock is reassuring, to say the least. I was hoping this would be the case, but then I've never ridden with a leaking rear shock before... To answer TxRider's point, my battery seems fine, but then my meter doesn't have the ability to measure output under load. My gut feeling was maybe a relay is involved, but that was only based on what I've read here and elsewhere about some Guzzis having electrical gremlins. I figure since they'll probably have to take the tank off at the dealer to handle the shock, maybe I'll just point out the possibilities suggested here and see if they come up with anything. I've had nothing but good experiences with Detroit Eurocycles so far (am I allowed to endorse here?), so we'll see. Anyway, thanks again! BTW Ratchethack, no offense taken! I had to laugh at the "Blow Goo"! How is it possible that I've lived here 6 years and not heard it before?

[grossohc]

Well boy am i glad i read this beforeI went out for a ride. was out in the middle of nowhere and pulled in for a break, went to start the bike and the starter button did sod all,started to panic a bit till i remembered what i read about cycling the bars lock to lock and bingo started first time.

 

Cheers Gary

[Guest Michael Derby]

I have '04 Nero Corsa and had EXACT same issues as well. My dealer in Atlanta said it is a common problem and he disconnected the clutch switch altogether. He also said not to worry that he would not let that void any other warranty work etc. that may come up. Since he did that I have not had one problem with starting bike.

[txrider]

Chet, I'm dealing with exactly the same no start problem and I think I know the problem although there are several good possibilities.  Here's what I've done-

 

1.  Removed the tank to get access to the pair of clutch safety switch connectors.  One of mine was "waggling".  This was likely the culprit.  While there I used an ohm meter to test the switch break/continuity.  It was ok.  Applied DeOxit to terminals after tightening.  Both of those bullet style connectors will be replaced with Packard/GM style as soon as I find the right crimper.

2.  Traced the sidestand switch wire up to it's connnector, disconnected and tested that switch also.  It showed to be good.

3.  Removed the kill switch/starter switch housing and cleaned, applied DeOxit to those contacts.

4.  Removed the relay which controls the starter ( first one in line from front of bike), cleaned the terminals and replaced.  I have a new Bosch replacement if required.

Granted this is a shotgun approach but it eliminated possibilities and for now I'd like to keep the sidestand and clutch switches working rather than removing them.  I bet you'll find one of these items is the culprit assuming your battery is at least 12.5 volts.  I should have mentioned start there first, you might save yourself some time by doing so.

57102[/snapback]

 

Update on my no-start problem. Bike is fixed and problem appears to have been the loose bullet connector at the clutch safety switch. Both those low grade connectors replaced with Delphi-Packard Weather-Pack connectors, definite upgrades. My faulty connectors may have been flukes but I recommend replacement if you have any problems with them. Source for the connectors is Waytech.com but be prepared for having to place minimum quantities for each component. Good people to deal with nonetheless. The crimper can be had from RadioShack, $8.00 instead of $89.00 for the special application item from Waytech.